• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

K161 Governor Assembly

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cmiracle

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
121
displayname
Clark Miracle
I was wondering if anyone could post some up-close pics of their governor/throttle cable assembly. I suspect that the governor in my 71 hasn't been assembled properly in years, as it was missing parts when I got ahold of it. The Kholer manual illustrations haven't been much help either...

One issue it may have is the fact that the gov. shaft will move in/out of the block ~1/4", as well as turn fairly free in what seems to be it's normal range. Not sure if it should do that. It makes it nearly impossible to press the governor arm on- the end of the shaft winds up being flush with the clamping assembly, so I can't twist the shaft to set the governor speed correctly.
 
Does the saft turn a full 360 degrees?
If so, the stop on the shaft is broken off and laying somewhere in the engine.
I would not run that engine till that is fixed.
Complete dis-assembly is required to replace the governor.
I hope this is not the case here.

On the adjustment.....Spread the slot in the governor arm so it will slip on easily and not have to be pressed on then tighten the bolt slightly, just enough so you can still rotate it on the shaft for final adjustment, then tighten securely once adjustment is made. Slight in and out play should not be an issue here.

Connect the arm/rod from the carb to the governor arm and hold at WOT.
Rotate the governor shaft CCW until it contacts the internal stop.
Now, while holding the shaft against the stop and the carb rod at WOT, tighten the clamp on the arm. The governor is now set in it's proper position.
 
Last edited:
The shaft does spin a full 360. I'm taking it down rn. Is it something that can be reassembled or will I have to replace that tab assembly?
 
If it were mine, I'd replace the governor, the governor shaft and the shaft bushing and be done with it,.....but that's just me. Probably cost around $100 in parts.

At the very least, replace the shaft with the stop on it, that's the issue at hand now.
You may get lucky and find the stop in the pan. If so, you are lucky. Heck, you are already lucky the stop didn't wind up somewhere like the cam gear and really create havoc!

There is a sleeve around the shaft as well as a washer BEHIND the governor if you decide to take it off for some reason.

I believe you will have to remove the crankshaft and cam to access the gov as it is the 1st part that goes in the engine during the reassembly process, but you may be able to remove just the shaft with out.

Unscrew the brass bushing from the block before removing the shaft or you may score the inside of it with the remains of the spot weld that held the stop on causing an oil leak.

Good luck!
 
This was mine. I picked up another one on eBay. IMG_4279.jpeg
 
Bill, Yours broken as well?

Check the condition of the stop pin as well.
It is the phillips headed long screw with a copper washer under it, right next to the g-shaft.
 
Back
Top