Injector pump replacement on a 782d

[mtoney]

Many of you probably know our 782d suffered a failed injector pump at end of last year. Fuel was leaking between the oval plate with 2 special nuts and the injector pump body. Basicly starving the middle and rear cylinder for fuel and air locking after sitting overnight. Local injector shop wanted $300-$600 to rebuild the pump. I stumbled onto someone selling a 3 cylinder Kubota pump on ebay, while it wasnt for the D600, she did have one that was. I got the pump for $312 delivered to our door. Replacement of the pump was straight forward, had to remove the intake from the block, injector lines, fuel return line and fuel input line. Then you remove the 4 allen cap screws and carefully lift the pump out of the block, Take note of how many shims there are and put them on the new pump. There is a small knob/lever, that is the fuel rack control, it goes into a linkage slot when you install the new pump on the engine. I didnt take any pics while the pump was out of the engine as I had injectors and lines open to the air and wanted to keep dirt intrusion to a min. After putting it all back together and bleeding the fuel lines, she fired right up. This 782d never sounded quite right, didnt have that snappy sounding idle the Kubota diesels have. Was more muted with to much smoke, espicaly when under a load. Now it sounds correct, little to no exhaust smoke once warmed up. Now when you load it up at full throttle, the exhaust note just changes and the rpms hardly change. Before it would pull the rpms down and you would get smoke. Cheers Mike and Michele T

 

[dcurran]

The oval plate(s?) your reffering to, are they the ones the injector lines bolt to? I couldn't really look on mine, as it's too cold out, but when I had my pump out to clean it, I thought they were just 2 bolt flange adapters like what you would find in hydraulic setups.

Where exactly was it leaking from. There's 3 pieces there. The flange adapter, and then a fitting adapter that threads in there and adapts to the steel line flare. It's possible one of those adapters came loose from the flange. Happens when trying to take off the hard line nut, and turn both at the same time. I don't know if it's o-ring or pipe thread, but if it's an o-ring it could have been cut.

Just keep in mind, if one line is leaking, even a little you can have no ignition, retarded timing, and-or not enough fuel injected causing exactly those symptoms you stated. The cyl(s) that are firing correctly with the right goverened amount of fuel and good pop off spray will be over fueled trying to get the weak cyl(s) caught up. Another excelent indication of this is blue smoke at idle, even after warmed up. Thats the weak cyl(s) not firing or firing too late.

 

[mtoney]

The fuel leaks were not from where the line itself goes into the oval plate, but between the plate and the injector body. That require special tools to take off the splined cap screws and get into the internals of the pump. Local injector shop said they have seen this quite a bit since we went to ULSD fuel. I run on road fuel, but treat it for lubricity and for gelling. She is still hard to start in cold weather, really needs the gear reduction starter. But I have found one of the correct block heaters new on the shelf at a dealer. I should have it shortly, just have to drain the cooling system to install it, what a PITA! She runs great once running. Might have to invest in a gell cell battery. Largest CCA I can find is a DieHard 340cca 410ca, thats what its got now. I bought that this week. When I jump it off the jeeps battery, or my 318 greenie for that matter, usualy within 2 tries she is running. I suspect that the block heater will cure this. I have the double ground wire upgrade, and the starter is run off a push button instead of the key switch. I am going to replace the heavy + wire as its coming appart at the battery terminal end. Right now the lack of job/money is keeping me from solving all its starting woes. I hope to make it as trouble free as the greenie diesels for winter starting. Mike

 

[dcurran]

The block heater alone should cure hard starting issues. I left my tractor on the trailer the other night around 5*F. Had it plugged in for a couple of hours ahead of time and it started with 20 sec of glow plugs on the first try.

As far as those cap screws go, I'm guessing there just hex head with tin caps pressed on top. Thats what I got from looking at mine. Between that plate and the ip body should be o-rings. Mostly what I was suggesting is don't throw it away. It's still a good IP.

In other news, you just can't beat these tractors. With my ag's filled to 50#'s and 2 link chains I've had no problems with the 54" power angle pushing even the heaviest slush we've gotten here. The only problem I've had is where the sunstrand pass side front aluminum mount broke off where it attaches to the frame. You get going forwards and back and it puts a lot of torque on those mounts.