IH CC 782 Conversion to U-Joint Drive Shaft

[jparon]

Request from a New Guy: Has anyone had experience converting from the original IH drive shaft to an aftermarket U-Joint version. Interested in how big a challenge...Thanks! John Paron

 

[mgonitzke]

A CV joint driveshaft from a later "cyclops" model, or 2000/3000 series driveshaft would be less of a challenge.

 

[jparon]

A CV joint driveshaft from a later "cyclops" model, or 2000/3000 series driveshaft would be less of a challenge.

Thanks, Matt! My slow response was due to my Parkinson's. My brain was willing but my fingers were dancing out of town for the last week. Good news for me, I have a 3000 Series that has been parked in my garage for ten years with a blown transmission. Right now, I am "just finishing" (for the last two months--the weather has been too good to be inside) putting a "new-used" transmission into it. So I am familiar with the 3000 series drive-shaft and can figure out the installation. However, if you have a couple of hints to make it go easy, I would appreciate it. Thanks again for your helping guidance! John Paron

 

[mgonitzke]

Here is some information I put together when I put one of them in my 1872: Kohler Command Engine Swap/2000 series Driveshaft Conversion

 

[dfrisk]

This is 100% from memory, but a frequent poster here, named Dave ?, can't remember his last name, lived around Bettendorf, Iowa, across the river from where I lived for years, but I worked in Bettendorf for many years. He replaced the rag joints on his hydro CC with u-joints, he kinda stopped posting then and we never heard how that turned out. All I can say is Deere used u-joints on their 314 & 317 tractors and the whole driveshaft has to be replaced every couple years, last I knew from my buddy was they were around $200. He started buying complete parts tractors just for the driveshaft.
Bet that makes IH rag joints look pretty good now.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, "Dave Kamp" is his name. I recently posted a link in another thread to the CubFAQ entry that has a link to a pdf file of his driveshaft mod. Here's a link to that thread:

pins & needles

 

[jknight]

I really do not think this is the thread he is looking for. When I first got into CubCadet Garden tractors.
I questioned the rag joints. I got an answer from an older gentleman that sent me photo's of what he had done. They were regular universal joints with grease fittings similar to the universal joints on the snow blowers. Just cannot put a finger on a name or post

 

[glippert]

Apologies to the purists, but I repowered my 782 about 8 or 9 years ago, with a Vanguard 18hp. The kit included a u-joint. I had the drive shaft shortened and u-joint welded onto it. Fully committed, right? Anyway, I kept the rag joint at the rear of the shaft. I have no visible wobble and it's still going strong. I use this tractor primarily for tilling in the spring, summer, and fall, and snow-throwing in the winter.

 

[jparon]

Thanks, Matt! My slow response was due to my Parkinson's. My brain was willing but my fingers were dancing out of town for the last week. Good news for me, I have a 3000 Series that has been parked in my garage for ten years with a blown transmission. Right now, I am "just finishing" (for the last two months--the weather has been too good to be inside) putting a "new-used" transmission into it. So I am familiar with the 3000 series drive-shaft and can figure out the installation. However, if you have a couple of hints to make it go easy, I would appreciate it. Thanks again for your helping guidance! John Paron

A CV joint driveshaft from a later "cyclops" model, or 2000/3000 series driveshaft would be less of a challenge.

Thanks, Matt! My slow response was due to my Parkinson's. My brain was willing but my fingers were dancing out of town for the last week. Good news for me, I have a 3000 Series that has been parked in my garage for ten years with a blown transmission. Right now, I am "just finishing" (for the last two months--the weather has been too good to be inside) putting a "new-used" transmission into it. So I am familiar with the 3000 series drive-shaft and can figure out the installation. However, if you have a couple of hints to make it go easy, I would appreciate it. Thanks again for your helping guidance! John Paron

 

[jparon]

Thank you, Matt “Mgornitzke!” and others who provided guidance and recommendations concerning my interest in switching my IH CC 782 to use a driveshaft with U-Joints rather than the original. Matt suggested I start with a CV driveshaft. Unfortunately, my Parkinson’s prevents me from doing small hand work, but fortunately I found “Jeff Derstine [email protected]”. Jeff agreed with your assessment, asked me for a couple of photos and measurements and agreed to create U-Joint Driveshaft ASAP and he did so for a very reasonable price. The finished driveshaft made up of new adaptors, new drive shaft, new U-Joints, and other necessary bit parts, is a very professional high-quality addition to my IH CC 782. Jeff shipped the parts quickly and included a new tube of top-shelf grease for future maintenance. Jeff happily coached me through the remarkably simple installation, and I was right back on my Cub dragging logs to be ready for the portable mill’s upcoming date of arrival.
Early first day, lumber milled, three more days to go.

When I was young, Life was great in a fighter at Mach 2.37, now that I am almost all grown up, Life is great on a Cub Cadet at Mach 0.00133. My best regards to everyone keeping the Cub Cadets in the woods and in the dirt—that is where life is virus free! John "Juan" Paron

 

[bkattner]

Can we see pics of the new driveshaft? Sounds like an interesting setup.

 

[bpientka]

I did the same CV conversion to my 1711 with parts from Jeff. Here is the link to some photos.

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/threads/1711-driveshaft-upgrade.8294/

 

[danderson]

Jeff makes great stuff.

 

[eberner]

Jeff hooked me up with a complete drive shaft set up for my 127. Both hubs and the drive shaft along with some other stuff he makes to keep these old girls working.
I highly recommend him, his stuff is much better than the originasl they replace, and the finish is first class.

 

[dkirk]

You need 1 rag joint in the system as this acts not only as a universal joint, but a torsional isolator. This cushions the destructive speed variations imparted by single and twin-cylinder engines, protecting the transmission internals.