Hydraulic lever stuck model 147

[user 15343]

Restoring my 147 after years of inattention and neglect. Got it running (in spite of only 25 lbs of compression). The fwd/rev lever is stuck in neutral position and will not move. I have only tried penetrating oil at the lever and don’t want to risk stripping the handle before getting some advice.

 

[kmcconaughey]

William, first off, WELCOME!

Regarding the stuck control lever, my first thought is that the control is rusted up in the location where item#19 passes through item # 20 and perhaps where item #23 passes through item #16 in the exploded view below. I would spray your favorite penetrating fluid, PB Blaster, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, etc. into that area and let it soak then spray it again and let it soak some more. You may have to repeat this spray and soak over several days.

Here's a photo looking down into that area looking from the front of the tractor. The large hole is where the steering column would normally be, so you'll have to look behind the steering column on your 147 to see the hydro control.

Here's a bottom view where item #23 of the hydro control comes out the bottom of the steering pedestal.

 

[danderson]

You probably have more the 25# of compression. The engine has an automatic compression release to help starting. You can’t really do a standard compression test on it.

 

[user 15343]

Thanks. Very helpful, especially the diagram. I will continue with the penetrating oil regimen. I have had it on its side to look at the innards but no movement there as well.

 

[mgwin]

William,
Welcome to the forum!
Have you unhooked the lever from the tranny to see if it is the lever that is stuck and not something else?

 

[user 15343]

Not yet. I turned on its side and it is hard to get at. I wanted to get some ideas before I busted something. Thanks for your reply!!

 

[deverett]

I had the same problem on a 149 that's sat so long that the yellow paint on the tractor had failed by about 20 shades. I think it was in a flood a long time back. My problem turned out to be the balljoint ends the linkage to the speed control cam. After removing the linkage,soaking in kroil and working them free,I lubed them up and they were still without slop and were back in service on another 149.

 

[gpapa]

try a little heat. best penetrating oil is the one you mix yourself - acetone and tranny fluid. tappy-tap-tap (gently). good luck

 

[dschwandt]

Umm...is the brake pedal released fully??

 

[user 15343]

Thanks for reminding me about the obvious, but yes it is fully released. I’m headed back north on Monday where the Cadet is housed, and implement some of the ideas from the forum. I’ll update afterward.

 

[user 15343]

So to continue the saga, I was up north In Huntsville Ontario, (where my 147 is located), and investigated further. I turned the machine on it’s side, (no easy feat), and disconnected the rod from the transmission. The transmission cog moves freely and the brake pedal moves it to neutral as designed. The problem is the shaft rusted in the bushing. Thanks to the poster who provided the diagram. Getting at it is a whole new problem. Any ideas on removing the whole dash assy?

BTW while on its side, engine oil made its way through the carburetor and soaked the air filter. I would appreciate some comment on how that is happening ( valve seals?)

 

[kmcconaughey]

I would spray PB Blaster from the top side down onto the control rod, #19 in the drawing above, where it enters the friction collar, #20 in the drawing above, as I mentioned in my post above.

Seeing as the engine is not designed to operate with the carb side down I would suspect the oil seeped through the valve seals and into and through the carb. I would think even factory new seals would allow the oil to seep through when in that orientation.