Engine spacers on a 1650?

[twevans]

When I pulled the engine on my 1650 to upgrade the engine cradle and iso mounts, the engine had 4 approximately 1/8” spacers around the bolts between the engine Pan and the cradle. Are these stock or some kind of an upgrade done by the Cub Cadet Dealer when the engine was rebuilt about 12 years ago? I plan on using lock tite around the 4 engine bolts along with lock washers. Not sure wether to put the spacers back in or not. Thanks for any advice.

 

[mgonitzke]

The pan should be bolted directly to the engine mount rails. No spacers.

 

[twevans]

Thanks mgonitzke, I should have it in by pm. I asked this question on another site and had lots of looks, but no answer in 3 days. I was getting a little anxious to get it back running. So I’m really glad for your quick response!

 

[etopel]

The pan should be bolted directly to the engine mount rails. No spacers.

Unless someone machined the bosses on the pan because they were worn and put the the spacers in to compensate.

 

[danderson]

Unless someone machined the bosses on the pan because they were worn and put the the spacers in to compensate.

That’s what I was thinking. Here’s the bottom of a fairly unmolested aluminum pan. Maybe they were to compensate for crushed ISO mounts

 

[mgonitzke]

Unless someone machined the bosses on the pan because they were worn and put the the spacers in to compensate.

I suppose that could be, but if there was half an inch worth of spacers in there, there wouldn't be many threads left for the bolts to grab.

Might be good to see a pic of his oil pan.

 

[etopel]

I think he meant 1 spacer on each bolt for a total of 4 but I could be wrong. A pic would be good.

 

[mgonitzke]

Yeah, now that I read it again, I think you are right.

 

[hydroharry]

That’s what I was thinking. Here’s the bottom of a fairly unmolested aluminum pan. Maybe they were to compensate for crushed ISO mounts

My guess would be the spacers were to compensate for crushed ISO-mounts. If the ISO were shot the spacers would probalby help keep the engine from sitting right on the frame cross member or banging on it as it twists side to side when running. More like a short term temporary fix to get the tractor out the door. I've seen some Quiet Line units actually have a little hole punched in the left side panel because of failed ISO-mounts. The engine will just twist back and forth side to side when it's running and the threaded stem for the air cleaner cover will pound a little hole right thru the side panel.

 

[Stevenovick1]

If the ISO rubber bushings are shot. When the motor shakes does it strip the pan threads out?

 

[bwstevens]

My 149 striped the oil pan bolts out and that is built before the iso mounts. One of the holes in the oil pan above is partially stripped . there is posts about modifying the iso frame to relieve stress on the bolts.

 

[Stevenovick1]

Yes did the mod. But found my tractor in a yard. The owner stopped using the tractor. Because the ISO rubbers went bad and shook tractor. Then got parked. I guess he got aggravated. I’m worried the bolts got loose and opened threads up. I’m wondering if i should JB weld bolt threads to make up for the gap. Or am I over thinking. and just assume that there is a problem.

 

[bwstevens]

I would use either sleeve retainer loctite or thread repair loctite and glue in studs fully threaded into the holes and then any wear would be on the steel studs. Which would then outlast us.

 

[Stevenovick1]

I’m wondering if i do this. Should i apply to lower pan threads? Then maybe apply light coat of WD 40 on the bolts? or is that a bad idea.

 

[bwstevens]

Bolts are the reason the holes get worn.

 

[mgonitzke]

As long as the threads in the pan are in good shape, properly torqued bolts with lockwashers will be just fine. I wouldn't use studs. There is no guarantee one of those won't back out as well, and putting the nuts on the ones above the axle channel would not be fun.

If the threads are damaged, use your favorite thread repair, i.e. keensert, helicoil, etc. and if it is so bad that will not work, the pan will need to be replaced.

 

[twevans]

Sorry, I can’t get any pictures since I have it back together now. The pan threads were fine. There was a bit of rounding on the right front engine to pan bolt area, but only at the edge with 80% of the surface still flush. Setting the pan on my table saw top, there was no rocking or gaps at the mounting surfaces. I‘m sure all should be OK. The engine is back in with a new cradle upgrade, ISO mounts, snubbers, and rag joint. I’ll get the rest together today and fire it up. Thanks again for all the help, Tom.