Diesel starter

[tmarkle]

Since I'm a new diesel owner I have been looking back through the archives for diesel info. I have seen a "gear reduction" starter mentioned. What I have gathered is that this starter is something used on the newer Kubota machines and there are some minor mods need done to put it on the 782D, 882, 1512, etc. I'd like to know a Kubota (or aftermarket) part # for this starter.

My dad used to be parts manager at a Kubota dealership (he still helps when they are busy), but he can't find anything for me.

I think the drive may be going bad in mine. I can get a rebuilt one at work for a decent price, but I want to weigh all my options. If the gear red starter works much better and doesn't cost a lot more I'll put one on.

 

[dmull]

I have a kubota v1505t, and it is the same exact one I bolted on my 782D

 

[tmarkle]

I had a fellow send me an email about the Gear Reduction starters. He works for a company that sells refrigeration units for semis powered by kubota engines. He has installed these starters on two Cub diesels. Here is what he wrote;

Gear reduction starters off of a Kubota D722,D600,Z600,Z482 will fit. To install into a diesel Cub you need to cut a hole with a hole saw in the "engine" half of the motor mount so there is clearance for the positive battery post of the starter. It comes a little to close for comfort when bolted in to shorting out on the mount. To install starter take out the 4 mount bolts that go thru the rubber mounts and lift the engine as high as you can without unbolting anything else. If you need it higher you can remove the driveshaft bolts and the radiator fan mount. You need to lift the engine and loosen the mount from the block in order to remove the old starter. The nose cone of the straight shaft starter interferes with the motor mount plate when removing. The gear reduction starter does not have a nose cone is it will go in and out without lifting the engine. Once you have the starter out you can use a 1 1/4 hole saw and a angle drill to make your clearance hole in the engine mount. Put the gear reduction starter in place and measure up where the hole needs to be. You may have to make a new positive battery cable as the old one may be to short. Bolt it all back together and give it a spin.

Here is some part #'s Kubota 37560-63011 or 37560-63012 or Nippondenso 228000-0980 or 228000-0981. All the 3cyl. starters are pretty much the same.


I found one on ebay and it should be here early next week. I'll post some pics of the install.

 

[tmarkle]

I got the starter installed today. Here are some pics.

 

[proessler]

Todd Nice Job, I'll have to keep that gear reduction starter in mind if & or when I need a different one...

 

[mgonitzke]

Time for me to do this to my 782D...the solenoid went bad and took the ignition switch with it.

 

[jstertz]

Matt-
What did the starter do to your ignition switch? My starter has been starting (no pun intended) to act up. Reading your post has caused me to get into gear on my project. I certainly don't want to have my ignition switch go bad too. Where are you getting your gear reduction starter from?

 

[mgonitzke]

The starter came from ebay; search for the numbers given in the italicized text in Todd's post further down the page. I paid ~$75 + shipping for mine.

The solenoid on mine was engaging inconsistently and erratically, and wouldn't stay engaged. This gradually got worse and worse until finally it would barely spin the engine over, and the solenoid was basically chattering. This drew a lot of current and fried the start switch. The circuit breaker eventually tripped, but it was too late.

 

[jstertz]

Thanks Matt,
I ordered mine as well. I can't wait to get that thing installed. Have you done anything with the glow plugs on yours? I've been thinking about installing new ones on mine because the old ones just don't seem to be doing the job that they should. My wife enjoys cutting the lawn and I want to make the Cub-Kub easy for her to start and operate when she wants to use it. I know somewhere on the site, I read about someone installing a newer model plug from a JD that heated faster and hotter. I thought about going that route. Any thoughts?

 

[mgonitzke]

Yes, I installed 3 new NGK Y-103V glow plugs, removed the glow indicator from the circuit, and installed a solenoid to run the glow plugs since they draw far more current than the wiring or key switch can handle. With that modification, I only need 5-8 seconds of glow plug instead of 25-30. I can post more about that over the weekend; I'm not home right now and don't have the info on me or my laptop.

 

[jstertz]

Guys--I finally got my new glow plugs, solenoid, wiring, and fasteners. I'm putting everything in place but I'm still a little fuzzy about the trigger wire for the solenoid. Can I just place the orange wire that was connected to the first glow plug on the "S" terminal of the solenoid or do I need to do something different to trigger the solenoid to engage the glow plugs. Any help would be much appreciated...

 

[mgonitzke]

Remove the glow plug indicator from the circuit and extend the wire going to that from the key switch to the solenoid, IIRC. That glow indicator wastes a LOT of power.

 

[jstertz]

Thanks Matt. Forgive me for not understanding completely but isn't the power to the glow plugs coming directly from the battery to them via the large posts on the solenoid? Doesn't the trigger wire just open the circuit between the two large posts or am I picturing this all wrong? I'll gladly hook it up the way that you mentioned but I'd like to understand what I am doing and have done, especially if I ever have to explain it to someone else. I would think if the power was going directly from the battery via the solenoid (big terminals) that it wouldn't matter as much what was going on elsewhere as long as the trigger connected the circuit. Or are you saying that the glow light is sucking so much power that it isn't allowing as much current to flow through the large cable and terminals to the plugs?

 

[dtanner]

joshua donald stertz

That is what Mat is saying . the glow plug light that glows when you turn the key to heat the glow plugs is just a waste of power .I just bypassed the glow plug light and used that wire to trigger the s on the solenoid .

 

[jstertz]

Don--How long do you wait with your heat cycle in the summer on average and in the winter as well?

 

[dtanner]

joshua donald stertz

I found about a minute it will start and run fine. to early and it will stumble , if it does I leave it idle and hold the key over to glow a bit more.My Diesel sets in my heated shop (64 deg) so I can`t tell you what it would start like in the cold.If you have power in your shed but not heated I would buy a heater for the back of the hydro . They do make a huge difference in starting a diesel cold .

 

[jknight]

Donald Tanner
Can you add more information on the heater for the hydro?
I have heard of the engine heaters but none for the hydro. Only makes sense some hydro's are a bit sluggish when the weather is extreme
Joe

 

[jbaker]

Joe most guys just use a magnetic engine block heater, you can get them at auto parts stores or farm and fleet type stores