fhiggenbottom
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2015
- Messages
- 35
- displayname
- Fred Higgenbottom
I just purchased another Cub Cadet 1330. It' a rugged and well-built machine with a steel frame and this purchase marks my fourth Cub Cadet 1330. One of those cubs is set up permanently with a snow blower and the other two 1330s are for my wife and me. I originally purchased this mower for parts which are becoming scarce and expensive. But since it had good bones and looked to in good shape, I decided to resurrect it as a spare mower. I bought it knowing that it had two flat tires and a discharged battery but was unaware that it had a defective starting solenoid, no brakes and the transmission wouldn't move. Inspecting it after getting it home I discovered the lawn tractor had a broken transmission torque bracket and replaced it with a spare I had, (what a chore). I also repaired the brakes with two new pucks and replaced the shattered transmission cooling fan which had self-destructed during operation due to rotational interference caused by the broken torque bracket. I also replaced the steering bushing above the pinion gear which made the steering fan gear to not work without slippage when turning right. I also, replaced the battery and starting solenoid, replaced two tires and adjusted the carburetor and governor on the 12.5 hp Kohler engine.
The Cub Cadet 1330 is now alive and running strong and after priming the rust spots with Corroseal which converts them to magnetite the mower is awaiting some Cub Cadet yellow paint to make it look new. When new this mower sold in 1992 for approximately $3,300 and not counting my labor it has cost less than $300 (and a few spare parts) to get it running again.
So what is my problem you ask?
The machine moves as it should both forward and in reverse and the PTO and electric clutch seem to work fine if you hold the switch up but I'm having a problem with the PTO clutch switch. It engages the PTO but won't stay engaged unless I manually hold the clutch switch in the up (on) position. Checking continuity, the clutch switch appears to be OK, but it snaps the clutch off when you release it and won't stay engaged unless you hold the switch up. Load testing the battery registered 12.7 volts and 350 CCA and the charging voltage from the 15-amp engine alternator appeared to be around 15.4 v.
Any suggestions would be appreciated from someone who's had the same problem before I replace the clutch switch with a new one? I think the switch may be the problem but don't want to replace unnecessarily because I've overlooked something obvious to everyone but me during diag.
The Cub Cadet 1330 is now alive and running strong and after priming the rust spots with Corroseal which converts them to magnetite the mower is awaiting some Cub Cadet yellow paint to make it look new. When new this mower sold in 1992 for approximately $3,300 and not counting my labor it has cost less than $300 (and a few spare parts) to get it running again.
So what is my problem you ask?
The machine moves as it should both forward and in reverse and the PTO and electric clutch seem to work fine if you hold the switch up but I'm having a problem with the PTO clutch switch. It engages the PTO but won't stay engaged unless I manually hold the clutch switch in the up (on) position. Checking continuity, the clutch switch appears to be OK, but it snaps the clutch off when you release it and won't stay engaged unless you hold the switch up. Load testing the battery registered 12.7 volts and 350 CCA and the charging voltage from the 15-amp engine alternator appeared to be around 15.4 v.
Any suggestions would be appreciated from someone who's had the same problem before I replace the clutch switch with a new one? I think the switch may be the problem but don't want to replace unnecessarily because I've overlooked something obvious to everyone but me during diag.