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Cub Cadet 1000 will not crank

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kgroening

New member
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Jun 21, 2015
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Keith groening
Cub cadet 1000

When I push in the brake pedal it pushes a button in on what I am guessing is the safety switch to engage starter I get nothing at all.could the little selonoid the pedal pushes against be bad? Can I bypass the switch? Test it? How do I remove the damn thing if I need to replace it?
Suggestions?
I have cleaned all contacts I could find and now stumped! Help! thanks
 
Keith, WELCOME!
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Yes you can jumper the safety switch. It is a normally open switch. Here is a schematic that covers the 1000, it might be helpful for troubleshooting.

297567.jpg
 
Keith, there should be a little rubber boot covering the switch, unscrew it from the switch. under the boot you should find another tiny nut. Unscrew it and the switch should just fall out of it's mounting hole in the X member.

BTW A 1000 (I'm assuming here it is an IH build) is a GT, this should be posted up in that section.
 
Since you guys are talking about safety switches I have a question I've ben wanting to ask . I have a 104 that had a few bad wires on it that I had to replace. It was the original wire harness. Long story short , I bypassed the safety switch , did it in the ignition switch itself. Would that cause my battery to go dead like it does? I do start it up and move it in and out of the garage a lot when I'm out there to give me more room.
 
Jonathan, we should probably take this to the main forum area. I will post a reply there.
 
Greetings Ya'll!

Correct me if I'm wrong please, but per that Wiring diaphragm, for the Series 1000, Md.#13AX11CH712/Ser.#1B155H20762:

On the Ignition switch, at terminal B shouldn't there be a constant 12 Volts, & with the Key On, 12 Volts at terminal A & terminal I?

Also, are there any additional Wiring Diagrams for the 1000 Series?

I've downloaded the Manual on Electrical, which actually is Priceless due to the coverage on basic Electricity, Magnetism, etc. & It brought back memories for when I first got in to HVAC., but, I'm gonna Feast on it for awhile so as figure out why this mower will start erratically.

Ya'll have a Good Day!
 
Check continuity through the PTO switch when in the "off" position...orange wire.


Dkirk,

would that be a Yes or No to:

"On the Ignition switch, at terminal B shouldn't there be a constant 12 Volts, & with the Key On, 12 Volts at terminal A & terminal I? "

I realize that I'll need to run continuity & Ohm out many parts on this mower, so as to find out what's "gummed out" & passing low voltage, or loose & not making contact, or just plain broke/burned out.

But ,... Just like on the HVAC Equipment that I work on,... If it ain't "passing Juice" to the next component, then there's a reason, such as what I noted above &/or a "Lock-out" due to some Safety issue &/or a Lack fuel, Combustion air, etc.

I just need to understand where the Power goes, when it is supposed to.

Regards,
 
Greetings Ya'll!

Correct me if I'm wrong please, but per that Wiring diaphragm, for the Series 1000, Md.#13AX11CH712/Ser.#1B155H20762:

On the Ignition switch, at terminal B shouldn't there be a constant 12 Volts, & with the Key On, 12 Volts at terminal A & terminal I?

Also, are there any additional Wiring Diagrams for the 1000 Series?

I've downloaded the Manual on Electrical, which actually is Priceless due to the coverage on basic Electricity, Magnetism, etc. & It brought back memories for when I first got in to HVAC., but, I'm gonna Feast on it for awhile so as figure out why this mower will start erratically.

Ya'll have a Good Day!

The wiring diagram that is posted above is for the IH Cub Cadet model 1000 from the "Quiet Line Series" from the mid to late 1970s. The 1000 series was built by MTD not IH and is a completely different tractor. I will see if I can round up a schematic for one but I will need the specific model number. Do you have the actual model number like GT1054 or something like that, as there are dozens of various 1000 series models.
 
If this unit has spent a lot of time sitting out in the elements, chances are the electrical connections are corroded and rotted as these are not water/weather tight connectors. Water will run down the wires and into the strands and connectors.

I'd start there and clean as needed to assure good tight and bright terminals and connectors.

Repair/clean/replace as needed.
 
You all might want to take note of the date of the OP, June 21, 2015, and he only posted once...
 
David D., with the PTO switch in the off position, you want continuity through terminals C and D, plus continuity through the safety switch in order for the starter to function. No need to apply power for testing this - just use an Ohm meter across the terminals. The PTO switch is very susceptible to water contamination if tractor is left outside or is washed frequently. I just worked on a friend's 1250 that had a non-functioning starter and the PTO switch was the culprit. Cycling the switch on and off a few times cured the problem. A good dose of contact cleaner sprayed into the switch will be a temporary fix, hopefully.
 

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