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Coil problems with my 1430?

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jgoodpaster

Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Messages
7
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John Goodpaster
Last summer my 1430 started having some problems. It would run for 20 to 30 minutes, sputter, then quit. If you let it cool off, it would run just fine until it warmed up again. I replaced the coil (Kohler) and it ran like a charm....until last weekend. It's doing the same thing again. I estimate I got about 7 or 8 mowings out of this new coil before things started going south again. Any ideas? Assuming it is the coil, and I got a good one to start with, what could be making the coil go bad? Thanks in advance!
 
John
I'm not an expert (there are plenty of people on this site who remind me of my status when I post), but based on my experience, I suspect your valves are sticking.

Tell me, how does it turn over when it stops?

If it turns over fast like it has no compression, it could be a sticking valve, probably the exhaust valve.

Working toward a resolution, since the problem is heat related, first make sure that the motor is getting all the air it needs to run cool. Best practice is to remove the shrouds and blow everything out.

If you suspect the valve, or just as good practice, replace the air cleaner so that you can be sure the mixture isn't leaning out, causing the motor to run hot. I replaced my air cleaner this year, and it made an immediate difference in how the engine ran, and in how much (less) smoke it produced on start-up.

I'm also a big fan of the low ash oil available at your local Cub Cadet or IH/Case dealer, the stuff really seems to help with the lubrication of air-cooled engines. It is also available from our sponsors.

Another "trick" is the use of Marvel Mystery Oil, in both the oil and gas. Charlie just posted his formula --one capful in the gas tank, and two in the crankcase.

I think a little loving care and maintenance will bring your 1430 back to life.
smile.gif
 
Thanks for the advice. I'll try that. I did notice one plug was a little fouled, but the other was clean. They were also replaced last summer, but before I replaced the coil. I changed the oil/filter just a couple of weeks ago. The air filter was changed last summer, along with a new fuel filter. The air filter and pre-filter looked pretty clean, but I can replace those easily enough.
 
John
If you replaced the air filter last year, I wouldn't worry about it. I would focus on air flow and getting the valve stems lubricated. Sticking valves can be a B*#*# to fix, but the the tell-tale sign is the fast spinning of the engine.

Do make sure the airway is clear, over-heating can cause a lot of problems, and the whole problem is a bunch of grass or mouse's nest.

If you've got a two-cylinder motor, you can do the balance test by shorting out the spark plug of each cylinder while the engine is running. If the engine smokes when one of the spark plugs is shorted, it is the OTHER cylinder that has a problem --very effective diagnostic test.

I tried the "balance test" on a motor and very quickly learned which cylinder had the problem!
 
Well, things are actually worse now. From what I can tell, there are no obstructions to the air filter, and it's not turning over fast once it cuts out and I try to restart. I tried the Marvel Mystery Oil too. This evening, it started fine, but cut out after 5 minutes instead of the 20 to 30 minutes last Saturday. After it cooled for a few minutes, I could get it to run for about 10-15 seconds with full choke, but it would then die. I also tested the fire when it cut out, and discovered it had no spark to either plug. It makes me think it's the coil again. If this is the problem, what could make one go out after such a short time? Problem is, factory coils for this model are expensive - about $125 to $140. I don't want to pay for another coil if it's just going to go out again.

Thanks again for any advice.
 
John
Sorry to hear you're still having problems.

I checked Parts Lookup: your tractor has a lot of interlocks which could cause the ignition to drop out, including the PTO and Reverse Relay and Reverse Switch. I don't feel qualified to troubleshoot from a distance, or even up close, you might wind up being money ahead by taking it in for service.

Just a thought.

Others with more knowledge may chime in with on-point advice.
smile.gif
 
Well, due to lack of time, I had someone else look at my 1430. The fuel pump had to be replaced. I should have it back by tomorrow evening. Now I may have a new problem. According to the mechanic, the mower wants to run wide open, and won't idle properly. Problem is, it wasn't doing that before. The mechanic has tried to adjust the carburetor to the best of his ability, but he thinks I need a new one.
 
John, Your mechanic may be right, especially if the carburetor is a Walbro. I'm a bit puzzled by the description of the problem, though.

I would interpret the phrase, the engine "wants to run wide open" as an issue with the governor, its adjustment or mechanical condition, or the condition of the linkage between throttle plate and governor.

I would interpret "not wanting to idle" as an issue with the float and needle valve. Chances are good that the float needs adjustment and/or replacement when the fuel pump is replaced.

However, if your symptoms include gas spitting back out of the carburetor and rough running despite a functional and well-adjusted float, and the carburetor is manufactured by Walbro, then I would definitely agree with your mechanic --the carburetor needs to be thrown in the trash and you need to replace it with a good used (or new) Kohler/Carter Model 30.

I'm telling you this, not from experience, but from the many posts I've read concerning the Walbro carburetors. Very experienced and skilled mechanics cannot fix these carburetors when they go bad. The experts agree-- the Walbro is junk.

New carburetors are quite expensive, but if you post in the Classified's "Want to Buy" section, you might be surprised with the results.

Hope this helps.
 
I appreciate the response (and all the previous ones). You are absolutely right, a new carburetor runs over $200. Parts seem to be expensive for this particular model. I'm not sure what brand is on my 1430, but I believe it is original to the tractor. Hope to get it back this afternoon, so I will have to see what he was talking about (wide open vs. idle).
 
I would seriously doubt that the carburetor is suddenly at fault here. That does not fit the picture you have given us so far, John.

I am 99% sure that the mechanic has something wrong in the reassembly process to cause it to want to run wide open; a linkage assembled improperly or something binding. It could even be that he cleaned the carb and did not reinstall the throttle plate correctly.

You have a de-rated Kohler opposed Magnum Twin series, very similar to an MV17/18 used in other models. It does use a Walbro carb, however before you spend money on a new one it would be wise to revisit the mechanic's work. I would advise him to check the service manual for an MV17-18 to insure that everything is properly assembled.

I believe the fuel pump did address your original issue, which is good. Replacing that would not suddenly cause the current problem by itself; he must have altered something in the diagnostic/repair process. Even with a bad fuel pump, if the carb had issues they would have shown up earlier.
 
That was actually my initial thought. I will check to see if he took the carburetor apart to clean it. I'm not too sure he would have access to an MV17/18 service manual. Thanks to all for the advice. Trying to get my 1430 back in service so I can stop using my push mower!
 


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