Archive through September 13, 2017

[joligschlaeger]

I started some years back after a break in entering all numbers on everything into my phone.

didn't turn anything, pushed a few buttons and there it was,,,,ready to send out.

 

[digger]

Soooooo, how bout you get all your numbers together and send them to me and I'll add them to the FAQ's.

 

[bjames]

My phone is not very smart, if I dialed 47622d it would probably try to call my great grand mother.

 

[fcurrier]

Wayne: I think I've figured out where I'm going with this:

It might be a long journey.

Charlie: If one can't see beauty there's always usefulness.

 

[dschwandt]

Charlie, I'll start.

The spec # on my 1650 K341AQS is 71221a.

The engine is on the bench now waiting for me to figure out why there is no point push rod action enough to open the points.

 

[wshytle]

Frank-

Throw a little paint on it while you're fixing things. Do you ever get the fire you asked about last night? Installing a battery, solenoid, and whatever else has been mucked with might help with that fire. Check/clean grounds too. That 100 has just as much potential as any I've seen.

Here's mine and yes, it still looks like this and I've never had it running (yet).

.

 

[kharvey]

If you have the paper copy parts manuals the engine spec number is on the 2nd or third page for each tractor model.

 

[dschwandt]

Final assembly on my CI end deck today. Does anyone know if there are torque spec's on these 3 bolts?

 

[ekincaid]

Digger have you pencil and paper ready spec number on my k301 is 47138b and my working k321aqs is 602598 or b ..tough to see that on behind the frame

 

[hydroharry]

Dave S - you know, I'm gonna try setting it using the static method and then check it with a timing light to see how close it is.

Now, you sure caused a lot of trouble asking for the engine Spec number for the Kohler AQS in your 1200. You should'a just asked how do you go about reading it. You don't have to pull the engine. Maybe you forgot it's mounted on ISO-mounts - and with the age of your mounts the engine has sunk down. All you have to do is remove the left side panel, squat down and push up a little on the air cleaner housing (assuming its attached really well) and the engine will rock up high enough for you to read the Spec numbers and other details on the tag. Oops, you'll probably have to wipe the dust off it - that will probably be the hardest part.

 

[dschwandt]

Harry, mounts were new a couple years ago, OEM and still too far down and back t even read the first digit.

 

[hydroharry]

David - when the ISO-mounts are newer you just have to push up harder.

I'm still kinda wondering why you needed the number. It's really just a Kohler code, usually for a specific tractor manufacturer, that keys certain engine specs. Things like the crank output size and length, and a few other things. I've never recall ever needing it - unless you want a replacement engine/short/long block, etc.

Kendal H makes a good point about it being in the paper copy of the parts manual - but that's the engine it was "supposed" to have been built with. Replacements might have an updated Kohler Spec No. Maybe that's also why Charlie was asking for a whole list to post.

 

[mgwin]

Wayne, Frank,

C'mon guys, do a restore! You won't regret it.
It will take a while, but you will have a beautiful antique garden tractor to show off.

These beauties are becoming victim to parts sell-offs, and are becoming fewer and fewer in number.

I have been working on mine since January, and it may be Jan. before it's finished. I keep telling myself "patience grasshopper," (Ref:Kung Fu show) It will be finished one day.

Wayne,
Seat looks familiar.

 

[balbrecht]

David S,
The manual for the next deck series that uses the same bearing setup says 38 to 45 ft-lbs. See page 3-6 of the 1x6/1x7 service manual.

 

[wshytle]

Marty-

Maybe that was a readily available replacement seat for some time period since these guys were made or just a coincidence.

I'd like to rebuild it and plan to someday if things hold out like health and success on prior jobs. I just have so much on my plate all of the time it seems.

I remember I traded a 8ft jon boat I never used for this 100. The guy said it had a post or rod on the rear end. I was hoping it was a pto but it turned out to be the 3 pt lift system. It also has spring assist so with the fenders it is a nice package. It's all there so it should make a real nice rebuild (someday).

.

 

[dschwandt]

Brian, Thanks for that tip
Wow, that sure seems like a lot of torque though on that bolt. I am assuming it is a hard bolt. Sure don't want to screw it up as a replacement would be almost impossible to locate I'd bet.

There sure ain't much clearance between the pulleys and the CI housings either. Only about 1/16" is all. On one of the ends, I had to use a flat washer under the pulley so it would not rub the CI end.

 

[sblunier]

I wouldn't stress over 45 ft lb on a grade 8 3/8" bolt.....most of us tighten them that tight all the time anyway.......45 ft lb on a 8"-10" ratchet handle isn't pulling that hard....

 

[dschwandt]

Steve, I guess I was thinking in terms of a wheel bearing.
That must be what the spacer is for, so the bearing does not get over tightened.

Going back together nicely now, just got the pulley covers cleaned, primed and ready for yellow.
When I get the mule drive restored, it should look good under the 104.

 

[kfreeman]

On page VI of my IH Blue Ribbon Service Manual it has a Standard Torque value table. For 3/8" bolts, Grade 1 or 2 torque is 21-24 ft.lb., for Grade 5 it is 33-37, and for Grade 8 it is 45-50 ft.lbs. The table has a whole list of conditions and adjustment factors.

 

[dschwandt]

Copy that, Ken
But this bolt is hollow, has a grease passage through the center in order to service both bearings from the inside out.
And, you have to remove the grease fitting from the center bolt to get a socket on it.