Since we had 33 the other night!
It won't be long now boys and girls!
It won't be long now boys and girls!
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Archive through September 08, 2018
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Steve, So I can cap the aux pot, correct?
Not going to reinstall the OEM hyd lift and will mod the steering column to accept the Ross unit.
I also have two Saur Danfoss units that are much smaller, maybe easier to work with if they would do the trick.
Thanks for the tips.
Not going to reinstall the OEM hyd lift and will mod the steering column to accept the Ross unit.
I also have two Saur Danfoss units that are much smaller, maybe easier to work with if they would do the trick.
Thanks for the tips.
Keith-
I use a piece of 1/4" glass that's dedicated to this job. I don't use any wetting agent but I keep the compressed air blower there to keep the sandpaper/glass cleared of grit. I start out with a heavier grit and eventually move to something like 150 grit. I also rotate the head as I work it back and forth.
.
I use a piece of 1/4" glass that's dedicated to this job. I don't use any wetting agent but I keep the compressed air blower there to keep the sandpaper/glass cleared of grit. I start out with a heavier grit and eventually move to something like 150 grit. I also rotate the head as I work it back and forth.
.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Keith-
Either your machinist is ignorant, or more likely, he wants more of your money. I also use a sheet of 1/4" glass (used to be a shelf) and wet/dry sandpaper, 220 grit, with water. Sometimes if a lot of material needs to be removed I'll start with 120.
Either your machinist is ignorant, or more likely, he wants more of your money. I also use a sheet of 1/4" glass (used to be a shelf) and wet/dry sandpaper, 220 grit, with water. Sometimes if a lot of material needs to be removed I'll start with 120.
Same here on the glass and dry paper.
On another note, I have a block at the machine shop now for a bore job.
He is telling me it is not necessary to have the piston on hand to bore the block???
It's a big shop and they do a LOT of engines of all sorts.
On another note, I have a block at the machine shop now for a bore job.
He is telling me it is not necessary to have the piston on hand to bore the block???
It's a big shop and they do a LOT of engines of all sorts.
I for one will be trying the glass and sandpaper method for myself. 1200 blew another Head gasket. 3rd in 5 years. First was caused by a really warped head I replaced with another good one. Also had what looked like a crack running out of spark plug hole. Just curious if anyone would try this on the block? I'm going to flat edge the block and use feeler gages to see what it looks like.
Always something!!
Can fid no reference to this style rod end in the 70's parts book. and I have no idea what this angle plow came from to begin with. I have it on the 882 at present.
It looks like a set screw is screwd into the rod backwards then the business end is screwed onto the protuding part of the set screw.
Looks like a trip to tte machine shop is in order as I cannot get the broken part out of the rod.
Can fid no reference to this style rod end in the 70's parts book. and I have no idea what this angle plow came from to begin with. I have it on the 882 at present.
It looks like a set screw is screwd into the rod backwards then the business end is screwed onto the protuding part of the set screw.
Looks like a trip to tte machine shop is in order as I cannot get the broken part out of the rod.
elamott
Well-known member
Starting question on 129
Saw the pic of blowing snow.It is coming.
This brings a question on starting. My 129 does not start like it should in the winter. It will fire only once. I then stop the starter and try again After many times at firing once it will finally fire a couple of times and then fire up. It does turn slow, which is common but how slow is too slow. It turns over good with the plug out and not bad with the plug in now when it is warm. I have a magnetic heater on the hydro. Also thinking of putting one on the oil pan of motor. Coil, points and condenser are a couple of years old. Timing is dead on. I plan on putting in a new plug. Any other suggestions. What does everyone do to have a good starter in winter?
Would greatly appreciate any suggestions.
Earl L
Saw the pic of blowing snow.It is coming.
This brings a question on starting. My 129 does not start like it should in the winter. It will fire only once. I then stop the starter and try again After many times at firing once it will finally fire a couple of times and then fire up. It does turn slow, which is common but how slow is too slow. It turns over good with the plug out and not bad with the plug in now when it is warm. I have a magnetic heater on the hydro. Also thinking of putting one on the oil pan of motor. Coil, points and condenser are a couple of years old. Timing is dead on. I plan on putting in a new plug. Any other suggestions. What does everyone do to have a good starter in winter?
Would greatly appreciate any suggestions.
Earl L
mgwin
Well-known member
Earl,
Move to North Carolina!
Ain't that right, Wayne.
Charlie,
33 !!!
Our lows have been more than double that!
Move to North Carolina!
Ain't that right, Wayne.
Charlie,
33 !!!
Our lows have been more than double that!
mfrade
Well-known member
Sounds like you and I share a problem Earl.
I'm thinking the compression release isn't working just right. I think it releases to early and the cylinder is firing which brings any cranking to a stop.
At least on mine anyway.
I'm thinking the compression release isn't working just right. I think it releases to early and the cylinder is firing which brings any cranking to a stop.
At least on mine anyway.
That's right Marty.
I finally finished turning, harrowing, and tilling the garden. The 1650 tiller needed carb attention before it would do any tilling. I planted some fall garden items yesterday and was sweating like a mule in no time. I don't know how long Charlie would survive Carolina heat/humidity. I can't take it like I use to.
Earl-
Check the ACR. I'd also check the valve adjustments and maybe double check the timing. If everything is good it should fire right up.
I have a 149 that acts like it wants to grunt a little when I turn the key but it only takes one revolution and it fires.
.
I finally finished turning, harrowing, and tilling the garden. The 1650 tiller needed carb attention before it would do any tilling. I planted some fall garden items yesterday and was sweating like a mule in no time. I don't know how long Charlie would survive Carolina heat/humidity. I can't take it like I use to.
Earl-
Check the ACR. I'd also check the valve adjustments and maybe double check the timing. If everything is good it should fire right up.
I have a 149 that acts like it wants to grunt a little when I turn the key but it only takes one revolution and it fires.
.
Thanks for suggestions on planing the 129 head. I was thinking of using a window frame as the working surface.
My next big project on this thing is to separate the tractor and replace the cork gasket. I'm near certain that this is where my (20-year old) leak has been coming from. I saw the cubfaq instructions here on doing this, which are very thorough, so I think I should be ok with it...never had the tractor separated before, but since it's pretty well stripped down to the frame anyway, good time to do it!
My next big project on this thing is to separate the tractor and replace the cork gasket. I'm near certain that this is where my (20-year old) leak has been coming from. I saw the cubfaq instructions here on doing this, which are very thorough, so I think I should be ok with it...never had the tractor separated before, but since it's pretty well stripped down to the frame anyway, good time to do it!
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2004
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- displayname
- Jim Storma
Earl Ford and Keith Symons, It's alright to sand the gasket surface of the head using a plate of glass with the sand paper using even pressure as said. I did mine at work on a surface plate with an 8x11 sheet of sand paper taped each corner to it sanding the whole surface at once after applying layout fluid to the gasket surface.
What I did with mine after sanding it down flat within .001"; I went over it again with 120 grit at a 45 degree angle both ways from corner to corner with a slight curve, thinking it would have some bite with the head gasket. I had also checked the block this same way. I was able to get a .003" feeler gage under in an area and sanded that down as well; its worth checking if you keep blowing head gaskets. You could probably even use the plate of glass to check the block surface while it's in the tractor.
Definitely follow the torque procedure in the kohler manual. I went two extra steps after I was done torquing in sequence; I left it sit overnight and torqued them again in sequence, then ran the engine and left it sit again overnight and torqued them again in sequence. After it cooled down I torqued them one last time. Each time I torqued them; the increments of the final torque valve got closer and closer.
Just dropped off my K301 out of my 1200 at the engine shop on Friday. I didn't tell the guy I mic-ed the crank pin and used the bore gage on bore. He took out his mic right after I brought it to him from my hot car trunk and told me it was .001" under with one measurement. Also, looked at the bore without checking it with the bore gage and said it was really wore badly and said he wanted to go .020" over as .010" was too little to remove .005" per side and might not get a good clean up. The bore was nice and smooth and if in spec, a light hone job could have been done to break the gaze as my 169 engine. I gave him a stern look and nicely told him I checked it with a bore gage at work in our inspection department. It's right on the high end of being wore out. If I went .020" I loose out overhauling it one more time. I went further and told him I know machinist that can pick up that bore and machine that .005" a side all day long no problem. After a little silence, he said ok, and told me to get him the .010" over sized piston and he'll see what he can do but no promises. The crank pin when I measured it was measured in different spots and was out of spec, but not .001. I'll definitely be checking his work.
What I did with mine after sanding it down flat within .001"; I went over it again with 120 grit at a 45 degree angle both ways from corner to corner with a slight curve, thinking it would have some bite with the head gasket. I had also checked the block this same way. I was able to get a .003" feeler gage under in an area and sanded that down as well; its worth checking if you keep blowing head gaskets. You could probably even use the plate of glass to check the block surface while it's in the tractor.
Definitely follow the torque procedure in the kohler manual. I went two extra steps after I was done torquing in sequence; I left it sit overnight and torqued them again in sequence, then ran the engine and left it sit again overnight and torqued them again in sequence. After it cooled down I torqued them one last time. Each time I torqued them; the increments of the final torque valve got closer and closer.
Just dropped off my K301 out of my 1200 at the engine shop on Friday. I didn't tell the guy I mic-ed the crank pin and used the bore gage on bore. He took out his mic right after I brought it to him from my hot car trunk and told me it was .001" under with one measurement. Also, looked at the bore without checking it with the bore gage and said it was really wore badly and said he wanted to go .020" over as .010" was too little to remove .005" per side and might not get a good clean up. The bore was nice and smooth and if in spec, a light hone job could have been done to break the gaze as my 169 engine. I gave him a stern look and nicely told him I checked it with a bore gage at work in our inspection department. It's right on the high end of being wore out. If I went .020" I loose out overhauling it one more time. I went further and told him I know machinist that can pick up that bore and machine that .005" a side all day long no problem. After a little silence, he said ok, and told me to get him the .010" over sized piston and he'll see what he can do but no promises. The crank pin when I measured it was measured in different spots and was out of spec, but not .001. I'll definitely be checking his work.
Jim Storma.
I have a AQS341 at the machine shop also.
The piston and related parts should be here today and I will take them right to him.
Even though he stated he did not necessarily need them in order to do the (.010) bore.
I was under the impression is WAS necessary??
I have a AQS341 at the machine shop also.
The piston and related parts should be here today and I will take them right to him.
Even though he stated he did not necessarily need them in order to do the (.010) bore.
I was under the impression is WAS necessary??
ddulac
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2003
- Messages
- 84
- displayname
- Duh-on
The 100 always seems to start and run, even though I've neglected doing much mechanical work to it for the last decade. My neglect came around to bite me over the last few weeks.
During an aggressive grading effort in the back yard, some bolts on the differential cover plate came loose. I figure it was time to do a little work, so I ordered some parts from CC Specialties. The regulator had been damaged and under-performing for 5 years, so I ordered that too.
Now the simple fix has morphed into a significant teardown to address multiple problems and annoyances.
Here is the 100 before I simply intended to replace the regulator and rear gasket.
This is the current state of affairs in the workshop.
Finally, I since I seem to fight with the driveshaft coupler every time I have to work on the clutch, I implemented the "fix" that I had been thinking about for many years.
This tractor has been frankensteined dozens of times since it came to me in the mid-1990s, so it isn't like cutting the top off takes it much further from showroom. It was already "customized". Someone may be offended by my new driveshaft cover, but I did spend time to make it look like it could have been factory.
During an aggressive grading effort in the back yard, some bolts on the differential cover plate came loose. I figure it was time to do a little work, so I ordered some parts from CC Specialties. The regulator had been damaged and under-performing for 5 years, so I ordered that too.
Now the simple fix has morphed into a significant teardown to address multiple problems and annoyances.
Here is the 100 before I simply intended to replace the regulator and rear gasket.
This is the current state of affairs in the workshop.
Finally, I since I seem to fight with the driveshaft coupler every time I have to work on the clutch, I implemented the "fix" that I had been thinking about for many years.
This tractor has been frankensteined dozens of times since it came to me in the mid-1990s, so it isn't like cutting the top off takes it much further from showroom. It was already "customized". Someone may be offended by my new driveshaft cover, but I did spend time to make it look like it could have been factory.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Never like using sandpaper on the plate glass (not on thinner window glass), always used valve grinding compound to lap heads. Technique is to rotate the head as you are lapping in a oval motion. Apply a thin even layer of Dykum (prussian blue layout fluid)on the head surface, do about 500 laps, wipe the compound off, see if there are low spots - still have blue on the surface. If clean and shiny, no blue, it should now be flat within .001".
When I was a kid, my dad showed me this on a two cycle Lambretta scooter, we removed the head gasket, lapped the head and the top of the jug, put it back together without the gasket - was still running great years later. I've used the lapping technique for years..
When I was a kid, my dad showed me this on a two cycle Lambretta scooter, we removed the head gasket, lapped the head and the top of the jug, put it back together without the gasket - was still running great years later. I've used the lapping technique for years..
