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Archive through September 05, 2010
- Thread starter memorgan
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TODD - When you break a diff. housing & ring gear you really do the job RIGHT! With all that shrapnel in that rearend you're lucky it didn't break the case.
I saw your pic's over @ the RPM forum. DON V. really knows how to make these Cubbies run and last.
You must be really close on the balance on weight. And have good tires. And obviously making some HP.
With the rake your CC has, I think it would look pretty cool painted red, look like a Super Stock 3688 pulling tractor.
I saw your pic's over @ the RPM forum. DON V. really knows how to make these Cubbies run and last.
You must be really close on the balance on weight. And have good tires. And obviously making some HP.
With the rake your CC has, I think it would look pretty cool painted red, look like a Super Stock 3688 pulling tractor.
Denny,
To make it look like an 88 series is the general plan. If you look close at how I made the fenders, you should see some resemblance to an 88 series open station. I just got some screen material from Mcmaster Carr to make the grill and I'm using wheel horse square headlight bezels. I'm going to try to make it look as if IH had styled the Cub Cadets the same as the 88 series. Kind like how I did my black stripe 149. I think I'm going to use "582D" as the model #.
I just noticed last night when I was working putting the rearend back together that I also twisted the top shaft in the transmission. It was supposed to be a hardened one but apparently not hard enough. I got another one on the way so I can get it back together for this weekend.
To make it look like an 88 series is the general plan. If you look close at how I made the fenders, you should see some resemblance to an 88 series open station. I just got some screen material from Mcmaster Carr to make the grill and I'm using wheel horse square headlight bezels. I'm going to try to make it look as if IH had styled the Cub Cadets the same as the 88 series. Kind like how I did my black stripe 149. I think I'm going to use "582D" as the model #.
I just noticed last night when I was working putting the rearend back together that I also twisted the top shaft in the transmission. It was supposed to be a hardened one but apparently not hard enough. I got another one on the way so I can get it back together for this weekend.
bperegrine
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- Brian Peregrine
There will a big garden tractor pull December 10th & 11th in Kansas City Missouri at the American Royal's Governors building.. Will have local type classes from stock governed 12hp to 4 cylinder mini's and the NQS will be pulling on the track beside. If you have never gotten to see the big boys here is a great opportunity to take your own puller from governed stock to 4 cyl car engine and pull your self and see the NQS show at the same time. Details on lakota Racing's web site. http://www.lakotaracing.com/kansascity
Richard,
Check out the Hilliard Club website, http://hilliardtractorclub.com/. According to it, the pull in Columbus, OH is Jan 7th and 8th.
LD
Check out the Hilliard Club website, http://hilliardtractorclub.com/. According to it, the pull in Columbus, OH is Jan 7th and 8th.
LD
I need some dimensions on the clutch throwout arm on a 582 or 1050, 1606, 1806, etc (82 series style gear drive).
They don't have to be super precise. I need the overall length, and the distance from the top pivot hole to the center of the hole the driveshaft goes through.
They don't have to be super precise. I need the overall length, and the distance from the top pivot hole to the center of the hole the driveshaft goes through.
Todd M.
9 3/4" long
1 3/8" from the center of the pivot hole to the top of the drive shaft hole.
The drive shaft hole itself is 2 1/8" long x 1 3/8" wide.
It's also 1" thick.
I'll send ya BIG pics email.
9 3/4" long
1 3/8" from the center of the pivot hole to the top of the drive shaft hole.
The drive shaft hole itself is 2 1/8" long x 1 3/8" wide.
It's also 1" thick.
I'll send ya BIG pics email.
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I need to get some consensus-thoughts from the EXPERTS here...
I have a future loader tractor project that I'm just getting started on now. The project looks like it's going to be a hydro tractor based on a 147/123 with a cast-iron transmission case that contains parts from a CCC-782 with the fine spline axles. I'm also using the ported pump from this CCC-782
Am I best to just swap the ring gears and put everything from the 782 in the cast-iron case that way, or should I "go the distance" and swap everything including the pinion-drive over to the cast iron case?
I did THAT swap once before because I was using SGT internals, so the pinion-drives wouldn't cross over like these "should" from a regular sized GT, but it seemed like a LOT of work. Here's a pic of that swap, I'm still not sure if I really had the gears set up correctly, even though everything seemed fine.
Also, will I run into any problems using the ported hydro from a alumium trans 782 in the cast iron case from a 123?
I know some of these questions seem somewhat "basic", but it's easier to ask now than to figure out I "should have done it a different way" after the fact.
Any thoughts here are appreciated...
I have a future loader tractor project that I'm just getting started on now. The project looks like it's going to be a hydro tractor based on a 147/123 with a cast-iron transmission case that contains parts from a CCC-782 with the fine spline axles. I'm also using the ported pump from this CCC-782
Am I best to just swap the ring gears and put everything from the 782 in the cast-iron case that way, or should I "go the distance" and swap everything including the pinion-drive over to the cast iron case?
I did THAT swap once before because I was using SGT internals, so the pinion-drives wouldn't cross over like these "should" from a regular sized GT, but it seemed like a LOT of work. Here's a pic of that swap, I'm still not sure if I really had the gears set up correctly, even though everything seemed fine.
Also, will I run into any problems using the ported hydro from a alumium trans 782 in the cast iron case from a 123?
I know some of these questions seem somewhat "basic", but it's easier to ask now than to figure out I "should have done it a different way" after the fact.
Any thoughts here are appreciated...
mgonitzke
Well-known member
The hydros should interchange just fine. I guess if it were mine, I would just change the pinion shaft, too, because you technically need to remove the pinion shaft to get the right preload on the carrier bearings. Unless there's some other way of doing that I'm not aware of. Otherwise you'll have to guess the preload and hope it's right, and that doesn't sound like a very good idea to me.
When I put the CI rear in my 1872, I sort got lucky in that even though I changed pinion shafts, I didn't have to touch the shims behind the bearing cup in the CI case...the depth happened to be perfect. I had actually planned on keeping the CI pinion shaft and just swapping reduction gears, but the ring gear had a crack in one of the teeth, so that forced me to use the Aluminum rear pinion shaft.
When I put the CI rear in my 1872, I sort got lucky in that even though I changed pinion shafts, I didn't have to touch the shims behind the bearing cup in the CI case...the depth happened to be perfect. I had actually planned on keeping the CI pinion shaft and just swapping reduction gears, but the ring gear had a crack in one of the teeth, so that forced me to use the Aluminum rear pinion shaft.
MATT - Son's built probably a DOZEN or more 8.8 Ford rearends, one used behind a 500 HP small block in a Fox Mustang, plus worked for a local industrial gear box mfg. as an assembler for 1-1/2 yrs. The boxes he built were the size of a CC or larger, and weighed anywhere from 2000 to 5000 pounds. And he built thousands of them.
The pinions and ring gears are actually really close tolerance, the variation is in the housings, if you keep the shim thickness the same with the housing when you swap pinion & ring gear you are probably VERY very close to a correct setup for pinion depth, back lash, tooth contact pattern, etc.
It was actually FUN to watch him build his 8.8" for his Lightning last winter. The only parts we reused was the housing itself, and the axles. New ring & pinion, diff, all bearings & seals, crush sleeve and other small parts. He went from a 4.10 Traction-Loc to 3.55 Detroit Locker diff, Summit diff cover with pre-load bolts for the diff. caps. Took him about 35-40 minutes to completely assemble with Me handing him tools & beer! It's been the quietest most trouble-free rearend he's had in the truck in the last ten yrs & 130,000+ miles. We've got all the mic's, dial indicators, etc to check everything and when it was done all the spec's were to the tight end of the tolerance range, just where we wanted them.
The pinions and ring gears are actually really close tolerance, the variation is in the housings, if you keep the shim thickness the same with the housing when you swap pinion & ring gear you are probably VERY very close to a correct setup for pinion depth, back lash, tooth contact pattern, etc.
It was actually FUN to watch him build his 8.8" for his Lightning last winter. The only parts we reused was the housing itself, and the axles. New ring & pinion, diff, all bearings & seals, crush sleeve and other small parts. He went from a 4.10 Traction-Loc to 3.55 Detroit Locker diff, Summit diff cover with pre-load bolts for the diff. caps. Took him about 35-40 minutes to completely assemble with Me handing him tools & beer! It's been the quietest most trouble-free rearend he's had in the truck in the last ten yrs & 130,000+ miles. We've got all the mic's, dial indicators, etc to check everything and when it was done all the spec's were to the tight end of the tolerance range, just where we wanted them.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Dennis-
That theory worked for the pinion shaft, but didn't pan out for the carrier shims. The shim configuration I wound up with was not close to either the CI donor rear or the aluminum rear. Part of the problem is because it appears that CCC only used 15 and 30 thou shims...I took apart 3 rears and NEVER found any other size shims in them. I had at least one of everything from the CI donor rear, but I had to get another shim when I had to move some from one side to the other.
That theory worked for the pinion shaft, but didn't pan out for the carrier shims. The shim configuration I wound up with was not close to either the CI donor rear or the aluminum rear. Part of the problem is because it appears that CCC only used 15 and 30 thou shims...I took apart 3 rears and NEVER found any other size shims in them. I had at least one of everything from the CI donor rear, but I had to get another shim when I had to move some from one side to the other.
MATT - First time Son had to rebuild his truck's 8.8 I remember the shims were WAY too tight. We tried for an hour to get the diff into place with all manner of sneeking the shim packs in without success. It was real close to going together but would not go. We ended up with Me sanding one of the thicker shims, almost 1/4" thk down about .005"-.010". I really don't have anything in the shop precise enough for that job so I used a 6" sanding disc on a bench grinder and carefully sanded around the shim a little at a time till I got close to my final thickness then sanded till it mic'd the correct thickness everywhere. It actually worked really well and is still in the current rearend.
About a month later a supplier had a small bench top surface grinder complete with magnetic chuck or table. Would have been PERFECT for truing up Kohler cyl. heads or those shims, think the mag. chuck was 8" x 16" with 12" stroke. I would have gotten it but it needed more repair work than I was interested in doing at the time.
If you've got the right tools it's easy to make a thinner shim from a thick one, or there's always brass shim stock at most good hardware stores. Just make sure you sandwich the brass shim between two steel shims. I keep a K&S brass shim stock assortment in the shop all the time. I had to use a strip of .010" thk 4 inches long X 1/2" wide on one of the new frt wheel bearings I installed in the 70 last week.
About a month later a supplier had a small bench top surface grinder complete with magnetic chuck or table. Would have been PERFECT for truing up Kohler cyl. heads or those shims, think the mag. chuck was 8" x 16" with 12" stroke. I would have gotten it but it needed more repair work than I was interested in doing at the time.
If you've got the right tools it's easy to make a thinner shim from a thick one, or there's always brass shim stock at most good hardware stores. Just make sure you sandwich the brass shim between two steel shims. I keep a K&S brass shim stock assortment in the shop all the time. I had to use a strip of .010" thk 4 inches long X 1/2" wide on one of the new frt wheel bearings I installed in the 70 last week.
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Matt/Denny-
Thanks for chiming in, I appreciate the thoughts...
Matt-
Yeah, I was kind of wondering what to do about the carrier-preload without removing the pinion. I think you're right, and it should be done correctly by removing the pinion anyway. (fun, fun!)
I'll keep you posted on my results....
Thanks for chiming in, I appreciate the thoughts...
Matt-
Yeah, I was kind of wondering what to do about the carrier-preload without removing the pinion. I think you're right, and it should be done correctly by removing the pinion anyway. (fun, fun!)
I'll keep you posted on my results....
Art,
I have done at least 5 or 6 of them now by just swapping the ring gear and not disturbing the pinion. I just go a bit higher on the pre-load to account for the drag on the pinion. Unless you are using brand new bearings, you shouldn't need a lot of pre-load since they are already worn in.
Actually you can check the pre-load without removing the pinion. Put the carrier in without the ring gear. After you get the preload set, remove the carrier and bolt on the ring gear. I wish I had though of that a long time ago ;-( And I'll probably forget it the next time I need to do one.
I have done at least 5 or 6 of them now by just swapping the ring gear and not disturbing the pinion. I just go a bit higher on the pre-load to account for the drag on the pinion. Unless you are using brand new bearings, you shouldn't need a lot of pre-load since they are already worn in.
Actually you can check the pre-load without removing the pinion. Put the carrier in without the ring gear. After you get the preload set, remove the carrier and bolt on the ring gear. I wish I had though of that a long time ago ;-( And I'll probably forget it the next time I need to do one.
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Todd-
Thanks for chiming in... That route does sound quite a bit easier. I'll have to do more manual-reading and pondering to figure out which way I should go with this...
By the way... What kind of hardware did you use to attach the ring-gear to the carrier when you did your swaps?
Thanks for chiming in... That route does sound quite a bit easier. I'll have to do more manual-reading and pondering to figure out which way I should go with this...
By the way... What kind of hardware did you use to attach the ring-gear to the carrier when you did your swaps?
