Don, that's an old photo, I've since replaced the windshield. Not sure one the new one is made of, perhaps Lexan or ?
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Archive through October 25, 2010
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
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Don T.
In your case, I'd just use Saran Wrap. It's cheap and comes in a roll, so you can have a new clear windshield everyday!
In your case, I'd just use Saran Wrap. It's cheap and comes in a roll, so you can have a new clear windshield everyday!
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
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- Harry Bursell
Hey guys - been checking posts but seen nothing I could address. Now I have my own question. Getting ready to do some painting using the Cub Cadet Yellow (from CCC) correct for the IH Cubs. Also going to use the IH935 white still available from Case/IH. My son keeps telling me I need to use some reducer (thinner I guess) and possibly some hardner. Have any of you sprayed with these paints??? And if so, what if any of these additives did you use?? The yellow appears somewhat thick in the can, but the white is already kinda thin.
Thanks for your help,
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die - but the occassionally need a little touch-up.
Thanks for your help,
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die - but the occassionally need a little touch-up.
Charlie "Digger" Proctor
Your in a good mood today, OVER, Is that idea from your own experience lol. I would think that would make a guy sweat some wrapped in plastic. I do have a snow blower snow shield for another walk behind here and will have to give it a try.OVER
Your in a good mood today, OVER, Is that idea from your own experience lol. I would think that would make a guy sweat some wrapped in plastic. I do have a snow blower snow shield for another walk behind here and will have to give it a try.OVER
Melody, I have no idea where that bracket goes.
Hopefully someone else can ID where it goes. Are there one or two brackets?
HARRY - Welcome back! 483/483B is still the correct yellow. The different shades of white verses serial number list is still in the FAQ's. I needed both 901 & 902 white for my 70 & 72 so split the difference with a custom mix off-topic white. 935 should be the correct white for any late model('71 vintage) 73/106/7/126/7/147 and all WF's.
Years ago I repainted my old 129 with an old fashioned suction spray gun & tiny compressor and got not good results. Paint from my IH dealer was too thick or too thin depending on how I mixed it. I have better luck using automotive paints and sticking to a single system, either ALL PPG or DuPont, or NASON, etc. And the price is about the same. Last painting we did a month or two ago we got a new HVLP spray gun and it worked great. The real work and how good the finished product looks all comes from the prep work. The new gravity feed guns all clean up with a coffee cup full of thinner or solvent. MUCH easier to use than the old syphon feed guns for sure.
The auto paints are more consistent, you add so much color, so much reducer, so much hardener and shoot it. The auto body paint supply shops also have graduated mixing cups & strainer funnels to make sure you have no problems spraying too. The gloss and durability of the paint with hardener is much better than just the enamel alone. You have to have an activated charcoal respirator filter to shoot paints with hardener. It's basically the same stuff as Crazy Glue, not good to breathe the vapors.
I'd use hardenenr on anything sprayed on steel, and anything on iron just the straight enamel is fine. We used all PPG paints, their epoxy primer, filler/surfacer, & base coat/clear coat color with the hardener in the clear coat. The color may seem expensive in that system, but you can probably paint two CC chassis with one quart of color.
Years ago I repainted my old 129 with an old fashioned suction spray gun & tiny compressor and got not good results. Paint from my IH dealer was too thick or too thin depending on how I mixed it. I have better luck using automotive paints and sticking to a single system, either ALL PPG or DuPont, or NASON, etc. And the price is about the same. Last painting we did a month or two ago we got a new HVLP spray gun and it worked great. The real work and how good the finished product looks all comes from the prep work. The new gravity feed guns all clean up with a coffee cup full of thinner or solvent. MUCH easier to use than the old syphon feed guns for sure.
The auto paints are more consistent, you add so much color, so much reducer, so much hardener and shoot it. The auto body paint supply shops also have graduated mixing cups & strainer funnels to make sure you have no problems spraying too. The gloss and durability of the paint with hardener is much better than just the enamel alone. You have to have an activated charcoal respirator filter to shoot paints with hardener. It's basically the same stuff as Crazy Glue, not good to breathe the vapors.
I'd use hardenenr on anything sprayed on steel, and anything on iron just the straight enamel is fine. We used all PPG paints, their epoxy primer, filler/surfacer, & base coat/clear coat color with the hardener in the clear coat. The color may seem expensive in that system, but you can probably paint two CC chassis with one quart of color.
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
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- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Melody, do a search on 'Snow Cab'. You may find some answers there, if you have to time to check about 100 entries!
Melody, I checked the cab that I have for my #2 125 and it does not have any brackets like that. I also have a cab for a 1x6/7 series and it does not have any brackets like that either. Based on old Parts and Accessories catalogs it appears that the 1x2/3 series used a different cab than the 1x4/5 series. Then after the introduction of the 1x4/5 series the old 1x2/3 series cab was discontinued. Having never seen an old style 1x2/3 series cab I can't say for sure that's what you have. Hopefully someone will recognize that part and post info for you.
Above from a 1966 Parts and Accessories catalog.
Above from a 1968 Parts and Accessories catalog.
Above from a 1972 Parts and Accessories catalog.
Above from a 1966 Parts and Accessories catalog.
Above from a 1968 Parts and Accessories catalog.
Above from a 1972 Parts and Accessories catalog.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
That bracket looks like it may go under a pan seat, to support the uprights and doors...possibly for a 7X series tractor with the carry over 70/100 fenders.
Any pics of a 100 windbreaker from the back???
Any pics of a 100 windbreaker from the back???
Here's an O with a top/side door mounting bracket.
I'm sure Kraig will come up with a better pic tomorrow.
I'm sure Kraig will come up with a better pic tomorrow.
Melody S.
I posted that picture in response to Steve B's post about that bracket you have that might be for under a pan seat.
I posted that picture in response to Steve B's post about that bracket you have that might be for under a pan seat.
Out in my shop working on the 450 snow blower and to weld a new patch in on this blower would mean I a lot of cutting and welding. So I will have the epoxy resin on thursday and use that for
the repair. It won`t rust that i`am sure of and will be stronger than new.Should have it ready for paint if it would stop raining. Thanks Frank C for sending that over here
the repair. It won`t rust that i`am sure of and will be stronger than new.Should have it ready for paint if it would stop raining. Thanks Frank C for sending that over here
Melody, can you send me a bunch of photos of the cab and it's brackets as you have it installed so far? I might be able to ID where that bracket might go, if I can see the rest of what you have. I also might be able to ID what version cab you have. It'd be a long shot but could be worth it. I'll post them for all to see so that everyone can get in on the fun of guess that part.
