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Archive through October 24, 2010
- Thread starter syost
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Matt G and Art A
I want to get this blower runing, so I will take a few short cuts to paying a welder for four hrs and shop $$$. I will sand and blast and treat the rust and sand again and wash clean and then the East system epoxy and 16 oz boat cloth.This will not add much heigth to a repair but will stand a lot of abuse.I would love to coat the complete drum and be done. Read http://plasticworld.ca/default.asp?pID=69
I want to get this blower runing, so I will take a few short cuts to paying a welder for four hrs and shop $$$. I will sand and blast and treat the rust and sand again and wash clean and then the East system epoxy and 16 oz boat cloth.This will not add much heigth to a repair but will stand a lot of abuse.I would love to coat the complete drum and be done. Read http://plasticworld.ca/default.asp?pID=69
I do know what and how this will work and now is a good time to test my idea. I got lots of time
. So I will do this and see how it does,I have to fit the augers in and see how much I can add to the drum and shute area. If I got 1/4 inch I will glass with mat the hole area and add colour past for white and never paint again. I have all the mat I would need for 6 blowers (38" x 12')
It would add about 3 lbs to the blower
It would add about 3 lbs to the blower
lpalma
Well-known member
Terry,
I would leave the 107 fenders off the 123.Put the motor and the hydro lift on it and you will be good to go.
I would leave the 107 fenders off the 123.Put the motor and the hydro lift on it and you will be good to go.
fcurrier
Well-known member
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
As a matter of fact, here's an engine for one, now:
This is an experiment, results a long ways away. This engine is SO Std. that I'm going to try to bring it into spec by honing. The cardboard on the base (to be replaced by 1/4" plywood) is a guide to keep the hone from exiting the cylinder. The green rope holds the drill motor up while I check progress. It's slow! (fine hone stones) It'll help shorten a LONG Northern Maine Winter!
This is an experiment, results a long ways away. This engine is SO Std. that I'm going to try to bring it into spec by honing. The cardboard on the base (to be replaced by 1/4" plywood) is a guide to keep the hone from exiting the cylinder. The green rope holds the drill motor up while I check progress. It's slow! (fine hone stones) It'll help shorten a LONG Northern Maine Winter!
Frank, it's like cutting a board to short, cutting it again won't help. A hone won't cut a round hole it takes a bore machine to do that, a hone is used to cut in the lines that promote oiling the rings. Use it for to long and it'll cut the cylinder 3 sided.
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- Home of the Plow Special
Did you know narrow frame hydros can do tricks?
It took me awhile, but I got this one to lay over and 'play dead'...
But he didn't like that game...kinda wet himself...
so I told him to 'beg'....
Then he fell to pieces.
It took me awhile, but I got this one to lay over and 'play dead'...
But he didn't like that game...kinda wet himself...
so I told him to 'beg'....
Then he fell to pieces.
Art,
You got way to much time on your hands man!
You got way to much time on your hands man!
DAVE - I forget the exact name of them now, but years ago I'd have to find suppliers who could drill/bore SQUARE holes. They actually make a special bit or cutter that does exactly that! Typical method was drill/bore a round hole, then pull about three broach bars thru it. These bits or cutters would machine them in one step. Even do blind holes with a bottom that the broach couldn't do.
THAT doesn't have anything to do with honing cyl. bores but I agree, you have to BORE a cylinder round & straight, then hone to put the cross hatch on the walls to get a good rebuild.
One of the parts I used to be responsible for buying was a 6" & 8" dia tube that were four feet, six feet and seven feet long, honed the plated on the inside with .005" thk hard chrome. If the honing shop didn't know what they were doing the walls would not be straight in a circular pattern that would make you sea-sick to look down.
Typical machining process to bore a cylinder over-size .010" as most Kohlers are done is to bore it .009" O/S then hone the last .001" to get the correct cross hatch.
ART - Everybody has a basket-case 123 don't they! Yours is more complete than mine! Hope you used a loader to manuver that thing around!
THAT doesn't have anything to do with honing cyl. bores but I agree, you have to BORE a cylinder round & straight, then hone to put the cross hatch on the walls to get a good rebuild.
One of the parts I used to be responsible for buying was a 6" & 8" dia tube that were four feet, six feet and seven feet long, honed the plated on the inside with .005" thk hard chrome. If the honing shop didn't know what they were doing the walls would not be straight in a circular pattern that would make you sea-sick to look down.
Typical machining process to bore a cylinder over-size .010" as most Kohlers are done is to bore it .009" O/S then hone the last .001" to get the correct cross hatch.
ART - Everybody has a basket-case 123 don't they! Yours is more complete than mine! Hope you used a loader to manuver that thing around!
Good morning,
These were in my door this morning. It's our first copies back from our new printer of full color versions of the Cadet Connection magazine. Wow they did a fabulous job!! For all those who subscribe these should be in your hands by the end of the month or shortly thereafter. For all those who aren't subscribers, check us out at www.cadetconnection.com. We're just 19 bucks a year for a magazine that exclusively covers your favorite garden tractor. Starting our 10th year this fall. Sorry if I sound excited.............I am! We've finally reached a quality level equivalent to a newstand magazine while still keeping our subscription rate affordable....we urge all the forum members to check us out.
These were in my door this morning. It's our first copies back from our new printer of full color versions of the Cadet Connection magazine. Wow they did a fabulous job!! For all those who subscribe these should be in your hands by the end of the month or shortly thereafter. For all those who aren't subscribers, check us out at www.cadetconnection.com. We're just 19 bucks a year for a magazine that exclusively covers your favorite garden tractor. Starting our 10th year this fall. Sorry if I sound excited.............I am! We've finally reached a quality level equivalent to a newstand magazine while still keeping our subscription rate affordable....we urge all the forum members to check us out.
could someone tell me what is the purpose of the starter/generator other than the obvious. i am more specifically interested in how it interacts with the other components and why they are there. coil,relay,condenser etc.
i have cleaned the carb and with a hot battery it idles perfect. you take the battery off and it dies. is this a clue that the generator is bad. does it supply voltage for spark? i am trying to learn all this. i have owned a stereo shop for 15 years. but there is a big difference between speakers and tractor generators. any help would be appreciated. i am a new member also if you cant tell.
i have cleaned the carb and with a hot battery it idles perfect. you take the battery off and it dies. is this a clue that the generator is bad. does it supply voltage for spark? i am trying to learn all this. i have owned a stereo shop for 15 years. but there is a big difference between speakers and tractor generators. any help would be appreciated. i am a new member also if you cant tell.
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Mathew: Maybe start here?
Cub Cadet FAQ's #47
Easy Starter Generator Test
Here is an easy test for proper functioning of a Delco Starter-Generator (SG) unit. It can be done on the workbench or tractor with drive belt removed, and all wires removed from the F terminal. For the bench test you’ll need a battery, jumper cables, and a test lead. On the tractor, only the test lead is required.
The usual electrical failure on these units is that they will motor but not generate. This is caused by the generator field coil failing in open circuit mode. This test will check for electrical continuity through the generator coil without disassembly of the unit.
On the bench, ground the SG with the negative jumper cable to the (-) terminal of the battery, and connect the positive jumper to the A (armature) terminal and to the (+) terminal of the battery. Connect the test lead to the F (field) terminal of the SG unit, leaving the other end free. On the tractor, turn the key to start position. The SG should spin up rapidly and run like any DC electric motor. While running, take the test lead that’s connected to the F terminal and ground it to the frame of the SG. The unit should begin to slow down. This indicates the charge coil is good. If it does not slow down, the coil has failed in open circuit and will need replacement. Don’t continue this test for more than a few seconds as your running the charge coil fully shorted.
To understand why this works, check out the SG wiring diagram on this site:
Simpletractors.com
Cub Cadet FAQ's #47
Easy Starter Generator Test
Here is an easy test for proper functioning of a Delco Starter-Generator (SG) unit. It can be done on the workbench or tractor with drive belt removed, and all wires removed from the F terminal. For the bench test you’ll need a battery, jumper cables, and a test lead. On the tractor, only the test lead is required.
The usual electrical failure on these units is that they will motor but not generate. This is caused by the generator field coil failing in open circuit mode. This test will check for electrical continuity through the generator coil without disassembly of the unit.
On the bench, ground the SG with the negative jumper cable to the (-) terminal of the battery, and connect the positive jumper to the A (armature) terminal and to the (+) terminal of the battery. Connect the test lead to the F (field) terminal of the SG unit, leaving the other end free. On the tractor, turn the key to start position. The SG should spin up rapidly and run like any DC electric motor. While running, take the test lead that’s connected to the F terminal and ground it to the frame of the SG. The unit should begin to slow down. This indicates the charge coil is good. If it does not slow down, the coil has failed in open circuit and will need replacement. Don’t continue this test for more than a few seconds as your running the charge coil fully shorted.
To understand why this works, check out the SG wiring diagram on this site:
Simpletractors.com
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Mathew-
If you want to see how it works, look at the wiring diagram. I'm not sure why you want to disconnect the battery while the tractor is running...there's no reason to do that. If you want to test the generator output, put your multimeter on the voltage setting and put it across the battery while the engine is running. It should be 13.5V or so. More than 14V and it's overcharging, 12.5V or less and it isn't charging. If it isn't charging, TEMPORARILY ground the F terminal on the S/G while the engine is running. This should peg the ammeter to the 'charge' side. If not, something is wrong with the S/G (or the ammeter).
If you want to see how it works, look at the wiring diagram. I'm not sure why you want to disconnect the battery while the tractor is running...there's no reason to do that. If you want to test the generator output, put your multimeter on the voltage setting and put it across the battery while the engine is running. It should be 13.5V or so. More than 14V and it's overcharging, 12.5V or less and it isn't charging. If it isn't charging, TEMPORARILY ground the F terminal on the S/G while the engine is running. This should peg the ammeter to the 'charge' side. If not, something is wrong with the S/G (or the ammeter).
