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Archive through November 08, 2010
- Thread starter lhinds
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Michael,
I assume that you're actually lifting something with it and not just running the ram in and out. Mine did the same thing when I first put it on my 123, but cleared up with use. Air in the cylinder will make this happen because it's compressible. Pressure required to lift is much higher because gravity is working against you instead of for like it is when lowering so air in the cylinder with compress a lot more. I don't recall without going out to look at mine if there are provision for bleeding the air out of the cylinder. Mine worked its way out with a little use.
If you're just running the cylinder back and forth with no load, I'd expect it to be jerky, but not necessarily slow.
Jerry
I assume that you're actually lifting something with it and not just running the ram in and out. Mine did the same thing when I first put it on my 123, but cleared up with use. Air in the cylinder will make this happen because it's compressible. Pressure required to lift is much higher because gravity is working against you instead of for like it is when lowering so air in the cylinder with compress a lot more. I don't recall without going out to look at mine if there are provision for bleeding the air out of the cylinder. Mine worked its way out with a little use.
If you're just running the cylinder back and forth with no load, I'd expect it to be jerky, but not necessarily slow.
Jerry
FRANK, DON, MATT - Yes, LP gas stands for liquid petroleum gas. I've gone after the intake & exh. ports in Kohler's with Dremel's & die grinders before, sometimes quite a bit, but never done more than plane .050"-.060" off the gasket surface to boost compression. And I have no experience with the LP heads.
The flat head engine design is a BIG compromise when it comes to building compression verses flow. I suspect the LP head still flows well but I've always been happy just cleaning up the ports & planing the head.
The fact Kohler & Tecumseh both made over-head valve versions of flat head engines which produced more HP than the flat heads shows how much better the OHV design is. And IH almost totally stop making flat head engines as far back as 1930. Yes, the flat head C60 in the Cub was built as late as 1974 but everything else as far as I know was OHV from 1939 on.
LP gas is very clean burning, leaves little if any carbon deposits in the combustion chamber because it's already a vaporized gas as it enters the comb. chamber so it burns much more completely. Carbon deposits are mostly formed where combustion gases are stagnant, not moving or swirling and rich air/fuel mixtures exist. LP has lower heat energy but higher octane than gasoline so needs and can handle higher compression to restore performance lost due to the lower BTU/gal of energy.
LP is a good motor fuel, some of the first turbo-charged spark ignition engines were converted to LP from gasoline and ran very well. But good luck carrying a five gal. can of LP gas to your CC when you run out of gas in the back yard.
The flat head engine design is a BIG compromise when it comes to building compression verses flow. I suspect the LP head still flows well but I've always been happy just cleaning up the ports & planing the head.
The fact Kohler & Tecumseh both made over-head valve versions of flat head engines which produced more HP than the flat heads shows how much better the OHV design is. And IH almost totally stop making flat head engines as far back as 1930. Yes, the flat head C60 in the Cub was built as late as 1974 but everything else as far as I know was OHV from 1939 on.
LP gas is very clean burning, leaves little if any carbon deposits in the combustion chamber because it's already a vaporized gas as it enters the comb. chamber so it burns much more completely. Carbon deposits are mostly formed where combustion gases are stagnant, not moving or swirling and rich air/fuel mixtures exist. LP has lower heat energy but higher octane than gasoline so needs and can handle higher compression to restore performance lost due to the lower BTU/gal of energy.
LP is a good motor fuel, some of the first turbo-charged spark ignition engines were converted to LP from gasoline and ran very well. But good luck carrying a five gal. can of LP gas to your CC when you run out of gas in the back yard.
On Cub Cadets, the LP head was only found on one year of the model 100's, 1964 if I remember correctly. I have had several, and it has been my experience that you really can't tell any "seat of the pants" difference in the performance of a stock engine between them and the "normal" version, but they were good for high prices when I sold them on an auction site.
Anthony P.
It sounds like you have a set of contacts sticking in the voltage regulator. Time to clean and adjust them, or replace the VR.
Anthony P.
It sounds like you have a set of contacts sticking in the voltage regulator. Time to clean and adjust them, or replace the VR.
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
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- Allen Schumacher
Good morning Don.
Hello Allen S
I`am out here in the shop spraying primer. I sanded and the picklex 20 and then wash clean with grease and wax remover and now its ready for the west system epoxy resin and some boat cloth. I hope to have this back together this week.
I`am out here in the shop spraying primer. I sanded and the picklex 20 and then wash clean with grease and wax remover and now its ready for the west system epoxy resin and some boat cloth. I hope to have this back together this week.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Don-
Those are Farmall A and B weights. The front ones should also fit a C.
Those are Farmall A and B weights. The front ones should also fit a C.
DONALD - Tough to say without something for scale, but I'm 99+% sure the red/yellow weight is a front wheel weight for a FARMALL H/M tractor, 42# each, and if you have a pair they bolt up nicely to the 12" dia rear wheels of a CC using only two bolts 180 degrees apart. They nest nicely into the very outer lip of the wheel/rim.
The second bigger weight I think is a rear wheel weight for a Cub FARMALL. Think they were 150#, and something around 20 inches in dia.
I bought DAD wheel weights for Christmas one year, my local C/IH dealer had three and I took them all, two were Cub weights for his LoBoy and not sure what the other weight was but I had to drill some holes in it for him so he could mount it. I also got wheel weights for Christmas that year, pair of 150# weights for my Super H with the attaching hardware to mount them outside of the weights I painted & installed back in 1968. Yep, NOTHING says MERRY CHRISTMAS better than genuine IH cast iron!
The second bigger weight I think is a rear wheel weight for a Cub FARMALL. Think they were 150#, and something around 20 inches in dia.
I bought DAD wheel weights for Christmas one year, my local C/IH dealer had three and I took them all, two were Cub weights for his LoBoy and not sure what the other weight was but I had to drill some holes in it for him so he could mount it. I also got wheel weights for Christmas that year, pair of 150# weights for my Super H with the attaching hardware to mount them outside of the weights I painted & installed back in 1968. Yep, NOTHING says MERRY CHRISTMAS better than genuine IH cast iron!
Hope I'm posting in the right place...sorry i'm a newbie. I have a 1650 and was reading about the trunnion fix on the hydrocreep. I have bad grovves and would like to fix them, how do I remove the trunnion? does the whole thing have to come apart? Thanks for any help.
Jon
Jon
stanner
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- Oct 2, 2002
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- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Welcome Jon...
To R&R the trunion, yes, the whole dang shootin' match needs to come off. You can, however, fix it on the tractor by either welding the trunion and filing it back to square, or replace it with a new piece, available from our sponsors. I did mine on the tractor, not a big pain, ut you'll get exercise...
To R&R the trunion, yes, the whole dang shootin' match needs to come off. You can, however, fix it on the tractor by either welding the trunion and filing it back to square, or replace it with a new piece, available from our sponsors. I did mine on the tractor, not a big pain, ut you'll get exercise...
SCOTT - Yes, I made a trunnion repair piece similar to what's available now several yrs ago and welded it on my 982 without even pulling the hydro out, just removed the rear fenders.
Shouldn't be a bad repair on a 1650 with no Cat O 3-pt or rear PTO like my 982 has. There's a Lotta bolts holding that 3-pt onto that tractor!
Shouldn't be a bad repair on a 1650 with no Cat O 3-pt or rear PTO like my 982 has. There's a Lotta bolts holding that 3-pt onto that tractor!
Jon Jacob Swingle II
I had my trunnion welded on my 129, I did not weld long and had a wet rag there to help cool the plate. The seal in the trunnion can get damaged by the heat from welding. Just don`t get the plate to hot or you will need to take the hydro all apart to install a new seal.That is a pile of work to replace that seal.
I had my trunnion welded on my 129, I did not weld long and had a wet rag there to help cool the plate. The seal in the trunnion can get damaged by the heat from welding. Just don`t get the plate to hot or you will need to take the hydro all apart to install a new seal.That is a pile of work to replace that seal.
mmiller
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- Michael A. Miller
Jerry, On that hydraulic unit, I wasn't lifting anything when I tested it...I've got to make a lift rod for the snow blade before I can test it under load. I'll post back with those results. Thanks for the reply.
Michael,
One more thought...Is your linkage from the handle to the valve bent or worn so that it doesn't open the valve very far on the extend position. Mine has that problem, but not to the degree you're talking about.
Jerry
One more thought...Is your linkage from the handle to the valve bent or worn so that it doesn't open the valve very far on the extend position. Mine has that problem, but not to the degree you're talking about.
Jerry
Chad M.
You ask in any major noticeable way?
The answer would be no, if your hydro pump is really clean.
Is it a good idea to replace the fan? Yes!
It's there for a specific reason.
You ask in any major noticeable way?
The answer would be no, if your hydro pump is really clean.
Is it a good idea to replace the fan? Yes!
It's there for a specific reason.
