Archive through May 31, 2016

[kshultz]

4 hours later I had a newer spindle and was up and running again. (Thanks to Scott U.)

 

[avandervort]

Is this the only part I need for my 102 muffler or is there an angle price that is also needed. Where does it mount on the starter side?

 

[fcurrier]

Adam:

 

[hmoyer]

I have been looking at 44" mower deck and would like to use it on my 1250, but the center pulley is offset and will not allow mounting. Is there a modification kit available for this. Also, what is the difference between a 44 and 44A Deck?
Thanks in advance for any information provided

 

[sblunier]

Kent,

Did it just break off at the weld? Odd failure for a 1" spindle on a later model machine.

 

[jeeilbes]

Holden: the Quitelines have a mower sub frame that curves up in the middle to clear the pulley.
If you have a sub frame from a narrow frame, they are flat all the way back.
I will try to get a picture up tonight, when I get home.

 

[kshultz]

Steve,
The weld broke. The replacement one was off of a later machine and it was much stronger.(more metal) So it looks like IH had this problem and was fixed on later Cub Cadets. I don't know when the change was though.
I'll try to post some pics later of the two.

 

[kide]

Steve B said:
"I've done the 129 to 149 hyd lift swap.......easy and it works 100% , no issues. Swap the whole hydro, or split the hydro and swap the front cover/charge pump onto the existing axial pump/motor.....either way.....works and is a very straightforward upgrade for a wide frame hydro."

Steve - any gotchas in doing the swap? To get the plumbimg, valve etc. moved, did you pull the engine and did you have to pull the tower? I'm looking at doing the swap into the 129 rather than rebuilding the 149, which is pretty rough - as I just told Harry - I'm leaning towards taking the hydraulics off the 149 and
putting them on the 129 - the 149 was pretty well fubarred by the PO. it needs a new wiring harness, driveshaft(all parts from the engine back), the 321 needs rebuilding, the steering
is loose, the brake setup now looks like an 8N Ford, which means they cut into the rear sheet metal) and although this may be heresy, I don't need two of 'em. (tick, tick,tick.....boom!)

BTW - if I do this, I'll take lots of pics like I did on the hydro gasket..

 

[teroberts]

My 105 steers tighter to the left than to the right.
I assume something is out of whack.
Is there a place I should look first?

 

[mgonitzke]

Tom R.-

It's set up that way so you can mow a tighter radius around obstacles. If you don't mow with the tractor and want even steering, you'll need to shorten the drag link by adjusting the rod ends on it.

 

[teroberts]

Thanks Matt,
What I can't figure out is why I have never noticed this before? Maybe I have too many new obstacles on the lawn. I guess it's time to tidy up a little.

 

[sblunier]

Kent,

I think we discussed that on here a while back.....straight vs. "bellied out" weldment area......much more meat on the wide ones.

Is that an early IH built 782?

 

[sblunier]

Gerry,

Engine out is easiest, BUT it could be done with it in and the fuel tank and firewall removed.

Pedestal stays in.

Rear end should come out to do the hydro swap......

The rest is bolt on, rockshafts are the same, valve bolts right to the tower, etc.

 

[digger]

 

[cearles]

Last summer I talked to a man that wanted to sell his non running 582. His repairman told him that it needed some electrical part that was not expensive but the labor to fix the cub was going to be several 100.00 and he didn’t want to put that much into the cub that he bought new in the 80’s . I offered him 300.00 and he said no way could he take that little for it, so I let it slide. Last week I got a call that the man had died in Dec. and his wife wanted to get rid of the tractor. I Got the tractor and no one remembers what was wrong with it, even the old repairman. It has a 16 hp Briggs engine, any clues as to what might be electronically bad with this engine would be appreciated.

 

[jbaker]

Cleatus, there is two different wiring harness for the 582 so its hard to say. But go here for the diagrams and start looking for your problem.

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?file=/217125/217125.html&lm=1436362166

 

[hydroharry]

Gerry - About your question about installing the hydraulic lift on your 129 from your 149. I know you're the author of Charlie's FAQ No. 94 about replacing the infamous cork gasket, and in doing it you split the tractor - But, you can do it without splitting. Just keep in mind to "remove" the 4 outside bolts holding the pump to the rearend. I think this will certainly save you a lot of time. I know it's a little harder to get at the pump but it can be done. I'd also recommend getting the engine out of the way, and the fuel tank and supports (which are a lot easier to remove than splitting the rearend).

And don't forget to look over your trunion before you re-install the pump. Now would be the time to fix it up good rather than having to remove the pump again later on.

I still think you should re-work the 149, and continue to look for all the hydraulic lift stuff you need to add it to the 129. We're all getting up there in age and we need hydraulic lifts

Cleatus - I see Jeff provided you a link to the wiring diagrams for 582's. My WAG for your situation would have to be replacing the Magneto/Alternator/Stator (which ever they call it for this B/S engine). I don't necessarily agree it would be a cheap part, but I'm fairly certain they would be the most time consuming (labor) electrical item.

 

[mgonitzke]

Harry-

How many transaxles have you removed? After at least a dozen, I don't understand why you'd want to try changing the hydro pump without splitting the tractor. On a WF, it is very easy to disconnect the brake and hydro linkage, driveshaft, etc. and remove 6 bolts to slide the rearend out the back, after which it is much easier to clean it up to ensure that no dirt gets inside the transaxle while the swap is performed. Also much easier to connect the lines for the hydraulic valve if hydraulic lift is being added.

Cletus-

"Doesn't run" could be literally anything in the electrical system. We can't help you much with that little information other than to give you a wiring diagram and tell you to start troubleshooting. Whatever you do, don't start replacing parts at random until the problem is solved. I've said it once if I've said it 1000 times; that is the most expensive/frustrating way to "troubleshoot" electrical problems.

 

[kshultz]

Steve,
Yes, early IH built. I don't know the Ser. # right off hand.

Charlie,
Yeah, that's the difference. Your pics look a lot better than mine. LOL

 

[sblunier]

There is such a thing as working too hard to avoid work, and swapping a hydro "in frame" is one of those adventures.......with all the trouble the infamous cork gasket can give, why take a chance on screwing it up by cramping the process? Pull the transaxle to do it right.