Archive through May 15, 2017

[digger]

So I called Cub Cadet about a batch of tanks I ordered that they sent wrong, LOL
This is part of the tech sheet that came back.
I can't believe the only option they suggest!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wow! Yeah, I really want to cut a hole in the hood on my tractor.

 

[mhomrighausen]

I second that Kraig. As expensive as the new ones are I wonder how much making reproductions of the original style would cost?

 

[wshytle]

Lee and David-

I just checked and the spring is the same part number for the 1200 as it is for the 128. I know there's no spacer/bushing behind throwout bearing or the spring on the 128 so why does the 1200 show it? The driveshaft roll pin hole would have to be in a different place because the spring is the same length for both tractors.

Charlie-Kraig-Harry-

What are we missing here? Is the Main spring roll pin hole location the same for the 1200 as it is for say the 128?

I went through about everything on that 1200 last summer but the clutch. I replaced the 3 pin clutch driver but I did it all from the loose engine side and never removed the clutch. I wish now I had at least looked at the driveshaft/clutch. The clutch disc and plates looked good so....

.

 

[bellwood]

Got the thing apart safely thanks to that handy dandy compression tool.

Here's a bunch of pictures... Thoughts on the plates and disk? The driveshaft has obvious ridging but its not awful... Obviously a new TO bearing and teaser will be needed

 

[digger]

Brian E.
At a minimum, the pressure plates need to be resurfaced to get rid of the hard spots, high and low spots depending on how deep the grooves are.
You don't want to take off much more that .010.
The disc itself is toast. Once they glaze over, they are paper weights.
The teaser spring is broke and shot, The throw bearing is shot, as is the drive shaft.

Look on the bright side, the actuator is still good.

 

[bellwood]

lol, well ok then! With whom can I speak about this?

IIRC driveshafts need to be made now as you cant get them direct anymore, correct?

I'd be more than happy to send off what I have to anyone willing to rebuild it.

Thanks =)

 

[digger]

Brian E.
There's many places to get driveshafts and other parts, and you don't have to go far to find what ya need.

 

[mfrade]

Just keep talkin' with "Digger", he'll set you up. Click on the box above marked CC Specialties.

One and the same.

 

[digger]

I'm not sure, but Rob Houtz might have new stuff. I know he has tons of used.

 

[hydroharry]

Brian - I agree with Charlie about what needs replacing. The wallowing on the driveshaft will cause the TO bearing to stick/grab. It's a definite replacement item. CC Specialties has all the stuff new, which is what I'd do. Used stuff would usually be a crap shoot and no idea how long it may last, or cause premature failure of a new TO bearing or even the teaser spring - and then you're back having to do the whole thing all over in a year or 2.

(All this clutch stuff from a Hydro guy - which is why I'm a hydro guy

).

 

[bellwood]

Parts have been ordered!

 

[bellwood]

What's the washer between the teaser and the roll pin? That's not on the tc-113... is that a hardware store common?

 

[digger]

Brian E.
That's why the Parts Lookup has more updated info. Most of the time.

 

[bellwood]

Not those, on part 4, I have a washer between the teaser and the roll pin

 

[digger]

I always put a washer between the teaser spring and spriol pin. Just makes sense to me that something riding on a flat surface is better than a round surface, LOL

I use a machine washer, as they are stronger than the normal washer.

 

[bellwood]

Agreed, will use a suitable replacement - rather odd the exploded view doesn't detail it

Now comes the waiting

 

[wcompton]

..... or put a stack of inverted belville washers in place of the teaser spring. There won't be any more coils to bind and break and clutch engagement is smoother.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9713k84/=17nig21

 

[digger]

So those angle towards the throw out bearing?

And they don't interfere with the actuating arm?

Under Edit,
The reason I ask is because the hole in the arm is 1 1/8" and those washers are 1 1/4".

 

[wcompton]

The washers have to be installed in an alternating fashion to work together as a spring... you can nest them for more force (but that's not really needed here)

They don't interfere with the arm as the sleeve on the throw-out bearing is where the arm rides, and the clearance on mine was minimal (that may not be the exact P/N, it's been a few years, and it seems like I bought a pack of 8).

Besides, it was the only thing that would fit on the Wheatland. With a large flywheel engine in a 147 frame, and a drive spacer that just cleared the grass screen to drive the hydraulic lift, you loose a badly needed 3/8" of space that a normal teaser spring would fit in. Now because of that loss of space I couldn't fit more than 5 bellville washers, so the clutch can get a little grabby, but it's still workable for the Super Cub clutch disc that I use (the stock one may engage smoother).