Archive through May 08, 2017

[lclark]

I'm going to use the "there are no stupid questions" excuse for being able to ask this. As much as I have fooled with this now (changing an exploded 3 stud plate) and I still don't see exactly how it works. What causes a clutch like this to "not clutch"?? Grinding into gear? Not pulling back far enough on the leverage fork, bad teaser spring, bad main spring, throw out bearing? Not sure what to look for?

 

[etopel]

From the looks of the pic with the driver plate it looks like you are pulling back far enough to release the clutch because I can see the gap between the rear plate and the clutch disk. When the pedal is down can you turn the driveshaft without turning the engine? If the engine wants to turn something is binding. Did you put a little grease in the pilot bearing when you put it together? The front end of the drive shaft should spin freely in the pilot bearing when the clutch is released. That's all for tonight. Good luck

 

[nbodin]

Lee- a few things to check
1. Is your new 3 pin driver made correctly? Clutch disc should go on without binding.
2. Is your driveshaft good? They will wear grooves in over time and everything will hang up
3. Is your steel clutch plate worn where the spiral pin goes through? It looks like it is in the pic. It needs to "float" on the driveshaft when clutch is pushed in.
4. Make sure there is no oil or grease on fiber clutch disk.

 

[wshytle]

Lee-

That throw out bearing doesn't look correct to me???

The spacer and teaser spring are installed correctly. The spring goes next to the rear pressure plate and the "bell" of the spacer goes over the spring. The throw out bearing then presses on the spacer. Have you seen the complete teaser spring too? They can break yet not be noticeable. Always replace the teaser when the clutch is in hand.

.

 

[eford]

I had a problem when I first installed my latest new clutch disc on the 1200. However, all I did was start it in gear, me sitting on the unit, clutch/brake pedal fully depressed, and maybe one minute later I had no issues whatsoever with the clutch functioning properly. I had equatated it at the time it needed to seat properly with the steel discs. I did not get them turned, didn't have any access for that(or $ to pay for it).

But like I said it lasted a minute, 2 at most and have not had any problems since. I think it was 6 years ago I last did the clutch.

Lee, how about the rest of the linkage to the pedal? Is there excess wear in any of those joints?

 

[sblunier]

90% of the time it's the clutch dragging on either the pilot bearing (bushing) or on the throw our bearing (shaft has grooves cut in it or T/O binding is some way).

 

[dschwandt]

That's why the ball bushing is incorporated into the 3 pin flex driver.

Now you have a solid 3 pin driver and engine to drive shaft alignment is a little more critical.

 

[lclark]

Guys, you'all have given me some great stuff to check! When I had it out, the throw out bearing spun freely with no real play or rattle and I did fill it with grease as best as I could. The main thing I want to check now is the drive shaft possibly binding on the pilot bearing on the back of the solid 3 pin clutch plate. How do I check that? Hold the clutch pedal down and turn the rag joint? The drive shaft should turn without the engine turning? If that's right, I'll bet your on to something. I did grease the pilot hole, but this will be interesting to check. I did notice that the rails that the engine sits on had very thin pieces of rubber between the engine and the rails. If I'm checking this correctly and the engine turns with the clutch depressed, sounds like it's time to replace those thin pieces of rubber with solid motor mounts? Could be the culprit. Am I testing this properly? BTW - you guys are great!

 

[dschwandt]

The crankshaft should be on the same horizontal plane as the driveshaft.

If it is not, it will bind and in time wear the bushing in the end of the driver

 

[rfoster]

I have a 149 cub, with rear tiller. I need the belt size for the large belt that goes from the front PTO to the rear pulleys. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[digger]

Richard F.
The info you want and much more is all in the FAQ's.

http://cubfaq.com/questions.html

 

[mgwin]

Richard F,

I noticed in your profile you have been registered for nine years, and only have one post!
That may be a record.
It is late, in a way, but welcome to the forum.

Please feel free to post more, and pics of that 149 are welcome too.
We all love pics!

And when you find out which belt you need, just click on the box on the far right at the top of this page where it says CC Specialties.
I am 99.99% sure he has some. And it will be shipped fast as lightning! BTDT

 

[ekincaid]

I've got the mower deck squared away on the 125,and I'm proud to say that I've cut the grass for the first time as IH Cub Cadet owner.What an awesome feeling to get, refurbish ,and use a 48 year old piece of equipment.Cuts as good as the day it was new I must add

 

[jwiggins]

Richard F,
I'll 2nd Marty's belated welcome,

And yep, everyone loves to see tractor pics, especially 149 pics! Well, with the exception of one in particular 149 pic,,,,,

Ethan
I'm 47 and it was just over a yr ago I had that Exact same experience/feeling,,,

But anyway first oil change since installing CC Specialties new magnetic drain plug,,,,

Carbon Mudd,,,

.

 

[jwiggins]

WT

!!??,!!?,,,??,,,??!?,??

 

[jwiggins]

Ok, a few things I've never "noticed" before, on the 149

V-belt pulley on crank output

Condition of driveshaft pin

Chewed up dip stick

Hmmmmm,

Set it out beside the road,

 

[digger]

Jason W.
I saw one that looked just like yours after a guy pulled and re-inserted the stick with the engine running.
He only did it once!

 

[danderson]

Jason-Set it out there. I'll come and pick it up.

 

[joligschlaeger]

I THINK I saw a few pictures and description of point push rods here. Am I in the wrong line or?

 

[rrschmitt]

Jason W,

The wear on the drive shaft pin and drive hub is a common occurrence on Hydro Cubs with that drive setup, especially with the higher horsepower engines. The constant pulse of each power stroke eventually causes the wear of the hub and pin after years of use.

Time to order a new hardened steel pin and get your welder out to build the drive hub back up and recut the slot. You can get also a new hub but they are a little pricey.

I also like to make sure the pin is seated fully into the slot of the hub by loosening the engine mount bolts and pushing the engine aft as far as you can or the holes will allow. Also make sure the engine side-to-side alignment is centered as best possible so that the hub and driveshaft are not binding. Rotating the engine and drive shaft several times by hand can help ensure that engine is centered before tightening the engine mounting bolts. I've seen engines get cocked (front mounting bolts to one side and back end bolts to the other of the mounting holes) during installation which causes binding on the shaft and hub and will prematurely wear on the driveshaft inside the hub. In the process of replacing the driveshaft on a 147 where the PO did just that. Good alignment of the driveshaft at both ends is important to ensuring long life of the driveline components.