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Archive through May 07, 2014
- Thread starter mmasheris
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Mike M., sounds like a nice setup!
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- Allen Schumacher
Brian, I would suspect once the end of the rod started to wear past the surface hardening it would go real fast. I have read that sometimes they peen over a little on the end. Probabily doesn't take much so you can't get the .020 on the points.
snicklas
Well-known member
I have a question on my new-to-me 127. It has a manual lift, and the float lockout button and the button that sticks out the top are missing. Trying to get some ideas on a repair. If I put a screwdriver or a bolt down the top of the tube, the lift will release and work. What I can see down the hole is about the same size as the inside of the tube, and it stops just about even with the hole for the float lockout button. Does this mean the button is broken of, or just missing. There is still spring pressure on the lock.
This is one of the several things I need to work out on this tractor. I am not used to manual lifts, or narrow frames for that matter, everything else in the fleet is a wideframe hydro lift. I also have to finish up connecting the new wiring harness that is in it, and may have to split it as the hydro dump lever, and the brake pedal are both stuck in the down position. I think someone started working on this one and gave up.
The 1650 is running and is an amazing machine. There is a real difference in the 2hp between the 1450 and 1650. I really like running the 1650. Just need to get tubes for the front tires, they have an issue holding air long term....
This is one of the several things I need to work out on this tractor. I am not used to manual lifts, or narrow frames for that matter, everything else in the fleet is a wideframe hydro lift. I also have to finish up connecting the new wiring harness that is in it, and may have to split it as the hydro dump lever, and the brake pedal are both stuck in the down position. I think someone started working on this one and gave up.
The 1650 is running and is an amazing machine. There is a real difference in the 2hp between the 1450 and 1650. I really like running the 1650. Just need to get tubes for the front tires, they have an issue holding air long term....
SCOTT - Been several discussions in the last year about repairing the lift lever & float button. Parts are still available.
There's a 90+% probability the inner rod that releases the left lever is broken off on top, or the top button is broken. If the rod is broken, it has to be replaced, is just the top button is broken, last discussion we had, the poster just carefully trimmed some of the top of the lever off, removed the broken button and installed a new one.
But to start, you have to remove the whole lever & rockshaft, remove the two bolts on each mounting bracket under the foot rests, and there's two longer carriage bolts that attach the quadrant the lift lever engages, those come out too.
If you have to replace the inner rod, it has to be installed from "above", and then heat & bent on the bottom after it's installed in the lift lever. The inner rad has to be threaded to allow the top button to screw on, and cut to length. I'd also replace the inner spring and washer when you repair it.
There's a lot more info on the repair in the old discussions, you can find them by doing a search.
There's a 90+% probability the inner rod that releases the left lever is broken off on top, or the top button is broken. If the rod is broken, it has to be replaced, is just the top button is broken, last discussion we had, the poster just carefully trimmed some of the top of the lever off, removed the broken button and installed a new one.
But to start, you have to remove the whole lever & rockshaft, remove the two bolts on each mounting bracket under the foot rests, and there's two longer carriage bolts that attach the quadrant the lift lever engages, those come out too.
If you have to replace the inner rod, it has to be installed from "above", and then heat & bent on the bottom after it's installed in the lift lever. The inner rad has to be threaded to allow the top button to screw on, and cut to length. I'd also replace the inner spring and washer when you repair it.
There's a lot more info on the repair in the old discussions, you can find them by doing a search.
Scott, to add to what Denny wrote, if the button was missing or if the rod was broken the rod would drop down and not stay engaged. You say it will operate with the use of a screw driver which means the top portion of the button is broken off. It'll be a bugger to remove the broken portion of the button. BTDT on a 125 but it was about 35 years ago when it wasn't as old and I didn't have to deal with rust. Was still a pain...
Wyatt, looking good! How long before we get to see a photo of the completed custom Cub?
Wyatt, looking good! How long before we get to see a photo of the completed custom Cub?
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Scott N - Dennis is giving you some really good information (under edit I see Kraig is too), and yes the broken button or rod can be repaired. But lets just say it's real painful.
From your description it sounds to me like the button broke off about mid-section. If you can find a picture of the actual button "not" installed you'll see it has an indented area where the float button can lock it. This is where I've most often seen the buttons break. If this is where your button is broken I have no good method/idea how to access the remainder of the button and unscrew it from the rod. I guess you can cut the tube handle to expose the rod and button, then unscrew the remainder of the button (hopefully without snapping it off the rod). Then you have to weld the tube back together, and then install the washer, spring, and new button onto the threaded rod (the washer slides down to that indented spot you see on the tube and is used to hold the spring in place. I never liked all this effort and just found it much easier to find a used lift arm with the good button.
Keep us informed how you proceed and resolve this. We're up for good stories.
From your description it sounds to me like the button broke off about mid-section. If you can find a picture of the actual button "not" installed you'll see it has an indented area where the float button can lock it. This is where I've most often seen the buttons break. If this is where your button is broken I have no good method/idea how to access the remainder of the button and unscrew it from the rod. I guess you can cut the tube handle to expose the rod and button, then unscrew the remainder of the button (hopefully without snapping it off the rod). Then you have to weld the tube back together, and then install the washer, spring, and new button onto the threaded rod (the washer slides down to that indented spot you see on the tube and is used to hold the spring in place. I never liked all this effort and just found it much easier to find a used lift arm with the good button.
Keep us informed how you proceed and resolve this. We're up for good stories.
Scott, CC Specialties sells replacement top buttons and the float button aka "Release Rod Lock Assembly Button"
Here's a photo I stole from CC Specialties of the top button. They break at the indent as Hydro mentioned.
Here's a photo of a broken one from my archives. If your lucky a portion of the indent area will still be there like it is on this broken one.
Here's a photo I stole from CC Specialties of the top button. They break at the indent as Hydro mentioned.
Here's a photo of a broken one from my archives. If your lucky a portion of the indent area will still be there like it is on this broken one.
hydroharry
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Scott N - I couldn't help myself. I went and stole a pic of one from Charlie's CC Specialties web site.
hydroharry
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Kraig - hahahahahaha - 1 minute ahead of me.
Gotta love it when we're tripping over each other to help someone out.
snicklas
Well-known member
Thanks fellas,
Unfortunatly it looks like it broke off at the bottom of the indent...... yea for me... What causes them to break? They aren't small and weak by any means. I am still trying to decided what to do with this tractor. Overall it appears to be in good shape, but it does have some PO issues. Someone added lights, the correct ones on the back, not so much on the front.... it has a new wiring harness this not completely connected, it has a different starter-generator on it. It is missing the can for the voltage regulator. The biggest thing that will really help me decide what to do is the brake pedal is stuck down against the running board, I can not pull it up, and the hydro dump lever is pointing straight down and is pinned against the fender and will not move. I do miss the removable tunnel cover of the wideframes. If the hydro is damaged... we will see.
Unfortunatly it looks like it broke off at the bottom of the indent...... yea for me... What causes them to break? They aren't small and weak by any means. I am still trying to decided what to do with this tractor. Overall it appears to be in good shape, but it does have some PO issues. Someone added lights, the correct ones on the back, not so much on the front.... it has a new wiring harness this not completely connected, it has a different starter-generator on it. It is missing the can for the voltage regulator. The biggest thing that will really help me decide what to do is the brake pedal is stuck down against the running board, I can not pull it up, and the hydro dump lever is pointing straight down and is pinned against the fender and will not move. I do miss the removable tunnel cover of the wideframes. If the hydro is damaged... we will see.
SCOTT - I bet 99% of those top buttons break where the groove is cut where the float lock engages them. And I bet 75% of them break the threaded end off the inner rod when people try to take them apart.
That top button is a LOT weaker than it appears.
That top button is a LOT weaker than it appears.
Scott, on my parents (now my) 125 the lift rod got caught on a low object. I forget exactly what it was, either a branch or a fence rail. Was a long time ago
and I'm sure I was scolded severely enough
for having broken it that I've erased that detail from my memory.
snicklas
Well-known member
I think I will put the button issue on the back burner for now. Was hoping maybe it was something simple. At this point I need to focus on getting this thing to run, and move on its own power... then worry about getting the lift to work. I hope the issues with the brake pedal and the hydro dump valve is as simple as someone put it together wrong. I need to crawl under there and see what I can see, and maybe have to split it and get everything put back together right. I hope I can get it fixed and running, it is a nice looking little tractor (except for the bug eyed headlights someone installed). It appears to have be stored inside most of its life, the paint is good for its age. All the decals are on it, and not faded, so hopefully it will live again.
Here is a pic of it....
Here is a pic of it....
