Archive through March 24, 2007

[digger]

Ryan W.
Cub Cadet Part# 490-201-0002 is for a Kawasaki engine. Not a good choice for our Cubs.

 

[ljerickson]

My 122 was spilling fuel all over the garage floor and running lean and nasty.

In order to deal with this I replaced the sediment bulb and steel line with rubber hose and a fuel filter. I also did a carburetor kit, replacing the gaskets and the float valve and seat. This worked really good when it was cold, but it's warmed up and things aren't so good.

Anyway after 15-20 minutes of running, the engine leans out and dies.

I went to extra effort to insure that the carburetor bowl was totally sealed. Don't want no fuel spilt on the floor!

Anyway, now I'm thinking that the fuel bowl should be vented.

Anybody have any thoughts on this?

Lee

 

[rwilke]

Digger,
THANKS A BUNCH for the info regarding, "Cub Cadet Part# 490-201-0002 is for a Kawasaki engine."

A guy was trying to tell me that is was the same as the #734-3014 filters.

I'll pass on those babies & "Go directly to the IH-795789-R1 jobs"!

Thanks again!
Ryan W

 

[rwilke]

Edit: Opps, repeat post!

 

[bnolte]

Carl,
The proof in the pudding is to take a micrometer to your cylinder bore and crank journals. This is where all that dusty air will wreak havoc first. Perhaps the engine was recently overhauled, and hasn't had a chance to get gooked up again yet. If so, count yourself blessed.

 

[bcook]

Lee: When your engine 'leans out and dies', is there any gas in the sediment bowl, or is it empty?

 

[rbedell]

Lee E:

Did you check the Gas Cap to see if the vent is open in that...???

 

[csanderson]

Wild Bill- Point on baffle in the oil bath air cleaner well taken. My point was that the entire unit had no oil in it and had been that way for some time. I believe someone cleaned it up, then put it back in service dry.
Bruce N.- I think you're talking to me, on the dust in the engine. I don't think it had a real long time on a rebuild. That's the only way I can balance the engine condition with the air filter cond.

 

[bcook]

Curtis: Sorry, I obviously missed that

Running them with no oil in the cup, is the same as not putting the paper element in = bad deal!

 

[csanderson]

It's going to be a slow restoration, so the whole thing will get a going thru, if it needs it or not. That air filter was just my version of "You ain't gonna believe what I found on this engine!"

 

[csanderson]

Timothy G- I think you had the right answer. They should all have oil in them.

 

[mmurphy]

Digger, Thank you for the sweeper manual. I have looked on E-Bay and have not found any. I even looked on the MTD Website and nothing.

 

[ljerickson]

Roland:

When I run into trouble, I usually open the gas tank and look at the level. This should fix the problem temporarily, but usually doesn't. The gas cap was a bit plugged, opening it up worked good tonight, I'll let you know tomorrow.

Wild Bill,

I've removed the sediment bowl and steel fuel line and installed "improved" rubber tubing and fuel line filter. This "should" work but of course adds a number of potential problems. I pulled the fuel line at the carburetor this afternoon and there appeared to be a solid line of liquid fuel available.

Lee

 

[cwestfall]

Well this makes it all worth while this little guy got his new red tractor today, the face says it all,ryan mull and his son!

 

[cstewart]

Hi all. I'm a newbie and thought I'd introduce myself. I just upgraded my 1110 mower to a real 1970 model 147 tractor (my first) and have already found this forum invaluable. SWMBO doesn't understand why I'd want something nearly as old as I am instead of something pretty and newer, but I know you all do.

She really runs well and looks pretty good for her age (the tractor, that is). Since I don't know what the previous owner has/hasn't done, what do you suggest I do for maintenance to start? I'm thinking oil and tranny fluid change along with filters, an air filter change, spark plug change. Anything else you'd recommend? Also, since she was made in the days of leaded gas, should I use any kind of additive? Any other hints, tips, ideas, etc. for this newbie?

Thanks,

Chip Stewart

 

[tcbusch]

Had a busy cub day today. I took the head off the loader cub to clean up the carbon and to check the condition of the cylinder walls. The every thin looked fine but it is a bit egg shaped. This explains why my other 147 has so much more power.

The next thing I did was remove the cab from the other 147. I disassemble it so I can store it flat.

The last job today was to get my rolling junker running. My brother wants to us it for pulling the sled at plow day. This thing is missing a lot of parts. I hooked a battery directly to the starter to spin it over. It banged pretty loud, yet it had compression. I pulled the head off and noticed the the piston moved up and down about 1/2" without moving the crankshaft. That was a head scratch-er. I pulled the engine and the oil pan. Turns out the rod bolts where almost all of the way out. I picked up another rod from NAPA. I had to sand down the ends of the journals a bit to get a snug fit on the crankshaft. We put the engine back together and used an Onan carb due to the engine missing the original. Wouldn't you know it the dang thing started. We drove in around the yard a bit then parked it for then night. She's quite a looker.

 

[digger]

Chip,
Welcome to the forum.

Great pics chief, but can ya downsize them just a tad! That makin the page wide is a real pain.

 

[cstewart]

Whoops! Didn't realize the pix would be so big. Sorry!

 

[digger]

Not a problem, At least you can do it! LOL

 

[bbates]

I have been to the FAQ page and read about what to look for when your hydro speed dont stay constent, and I am sure that is the problem. I was wondering is any one has a picture of the "The Trunion bracket" after it is out of the cub, and if there is a sourse to buy this part new?