Archive through June 15, 2017

[kmcconaughey]

Wayne, ah! My bad, all the series prior to the 1x8/9 would require the head bolts/studs to extend through the head tin in order to mount the fuel tank bracket/cradle. The 1x8/9 series have a different mounting setup. Note the head studs for mounting the tank bracket/cradle.

 

[hydroharry]

Wayne - what a shame. The 128 just keeps getting worse. What a mis-mash. I doubt that PTO clutch button would even work let alone hold up for 2 minutes if it did.

The tin cover on my 169 actually has 5 bolt holes for the head bolts. I believe all the 1x8/9 series had these holes in the tin cover. Since the 169 has 10 head bolts for the 16hp engine there might be 3, 4 or 5 holes in the tin cover for the other engines. Maybe Kraig or someone else will post a pic of a 12hp used in a 1x8/9.

The 3 holes at the back of the tine are "bolts" not studs on the 1x8/9 engines, since the gas tank was mounted separate they didn't need studs like the earlier engines.

I think all the 1x8/9 engines only used 2 studs which were used for the heat shield mount just like mine.

I don't think the tin cover you have was ever used on an IH Cub Cadet.

Here's a pic (not to good) of my 169 tin cover. I'm really wondering what else you're gonna discover.

 

[wshytle]

Kraig-

First of all, I think we were typing at the same time before so I didn't get your question. The PO did some more of his magic on the heat shield. Doesn't he do great work???(ha).

Hydro-

I'm familiar with the 1x8/9 engines. That was the reason for my posting earlier. I've seen these head tins on earlier models that also had the dog ear bend on the heat shields Kraig showed in a previous post. This is just an older engine I do believe. I also found out why it shut down in the middle of loading the other day...it has about 1/2" of fuel in the tank and I was going up an incline. You know about that from talk about QL fuel lines that have an upsweep right before the carb. And yes, the more I get into the unit the more I'm finding.

.

 

[wshytle]

And one other thing... I'd like to know how it is I get so many of these charity type jobs. My friend calls me about the little spring retainer for the float needle and that he can't figure it out. I told him that was because it didn't belong in there in the first place. He said he would bring it which he did but that's when he also brought that deck from hell. Things kept escalating and before I know it I have the tractor here needing a bunch of attention. I know he has north of $1,000.00 in this 128 already. So far it needs the teaser spring spacer, a clutch disc, probably a new throw out bearing, the pto completely gone through, a new hood hinge (done), probably new points/timing (tune-up in general), tow-in adjustment, and oh, don't forget the deck (which I have to go through of course).

Other than that it's ready to go.

.

 

[mgwin]

Wayne,

If all of the head bolts align up, then you may have a 128 head and heat shield on a "124" engine.

The heat shield for a 128 is exactly like a 124 except for a hole/notch cut for the spark plug.

The heat shield on a 128 is mounted farther in than the 124, or the spark plug is "farther out".

Here is a 124:

Now a 128:

Notice how the shield on the 128 is closer in, or the plug farther out.

Here are some more pics of the 124 engine.

 

[mgwin]

OK, that was easy enough.
I measured the distance from the lower right side head bolt (nearest the coil) to the spark plug.

Guess what?
The 124 plug is 2-3/8" from the bolt (center to center), and the 128 plug is 3-1/4" from the bolt.

That would explain why the notch is needed for the 128 plug, but I am still confused on the heat shield.
If the 128 had a dip stick like the 124, there would still be enough room between the stick and the shield.

 

[hydroharry]

Wayne - your tin cover doesn't have the 3 holes towards the back, where the older engines used studs to mount the gas tank. I don't think it was ever used on an IH CC.

Marty - the heat shield and the spark plug are both farther out. Did you remember the 128 would have balance gears so it couldn't have the stick beside the heat shield.

 

[mgwin]

Wayne,

Boy, you sure know how to drive a man bonkers!

I couldn't stand it any longer.
I went and took the head off of the 124 and placed it on top of the 128.

All of the bolt holes aligned up what appears to be perfect.
The ONLY difference in the 128 and the 124 is the spark plug placement.

In the 128 pic there appears to be one less head bolt below the plug and to the right of the "littler bolt".
It is there, it is just under the shield.

Your heat shield looks exactly like the 128 shield, so maybe you have a head from something else.




I have no "newer" style engines to compare with.

Harry,

You are right, they are farther out.
I was just saying if the 128 had the stick in the same spot it would clear the shield.
I did know it wouldn't work there though.

 

[hydroharry]

Marty - I think I feel the same as you do. I don't know if my head is screwed on with bolts or nuts, but something is rattling around

I think the tin cover on the 128 Wayne is working on may have been from a Quiet Line series engine (K301AQS). I believe the tin cover on a Quiet Line didn't have holes for any headbolts, except for the L shaped hanger bracket. It also had a hole for the sparkplug that you would put a rubber grommet in so the air flow was sealed and forced across the cylinder fins.

And depending on the style of the AQS engine, it might be extra wide and have a hole for the dipstick to go thru.

I just can't figure out why Kraig ain't posting pics of a 12hp engine in a 1x8/9 and a 12hp engine from a Quiet Line

 

[mgwin]

Harry,

The 128 pic is about the best I can do for the 128/9 series.

After thinking for a minute, the heat shield on the 128 and 124 are actually in the same place.

The only thing moved is the spark plug.

The cover tin on the 124 goes almost across the entire head.

Both shields are identical, (except for the plug notch) and use the same head bolts since the heads are identical. (again, except for the plug hole placement.)

 

[etopel]

That dipstick tube is from an AQS. I think you have an AQS block and head tin with a 128 heat shield. The earlier dipstick tubes don't have the bell shape at the top.

 

[mgwin]

Wayne,

That side shield in your first pic of the 4:06 post has been modified some also, along with some type of buildup on the PTO engagement rod.

 

[wshytle]

Hydro-

You might be up to something about the QL shield. We have threatening storms right now so everything is covered but I'm going to look at some QLs tomorrow. That little wrap around of the dipstick tube and solid top looks a bit QL to me. Maybe this K301 (heck, it could be a K241...no numbers anywhere) came from another tractor all together. If it gets to my bench I'll measure the darn thing and verify it's a K301.

If anyone out there recognizes this engine tin please chime in.

Marty-

I think IH went to a different head with the WFs and placed the spark plug over the exhaust valve perhaps for cleaner combustion. I've dealt with both and had some aggravating times dealing with tins a couple of times because of plug placement. That was mainly because I had the wrong head at the time or some foolish reason.

Oh, it's my understanding that most 10, 12, 14hp "K" engines use the same head bolt pattern. The K341 goes to a 10 bolt head as Hydro mentioned.

Maybe this "bonkers" thing is contagious. I think I'm going to get my friend here and have a talk. I don't want to have him thinking what it's going to cost to be my fault. He really wants this tractor to mow with like tomorrow but the things I've talked about need to be addressed or it won't be mowing at all. I was going to put the engine on the bench but I think I'm going to wait. He will be looking at a few hundred more bucks just in parts to get it right then there's the ten bucks I'll make doing it.

.

 

[wshytle]

I don't know how I missed the last two posts but...

Marty-

That pto engagement rod is a mess. Like I said before, the PO was either on drugs or abused by his wife. That side shield looks fishy to me also but it will have to be correct enough.

Ed-

Thanks for that input. Once I see the QLs tomorrow I may have more ammunition for my talk with the owner.

.

 

[ekincaid]

I'm getting smoke out of the breather of my 125.I think the rings maybe on the way out,no loss of compression and still runs fine should I tear into the motor at this point or just keep the oil topped off?

 

[balbrecht]

Ethan,
I'm not sure I own a K series that doesn't blow out the breather to some extent, yet they all use very little oil. So some blow out the breather is not always an indication of a huge problem. I would keep an eye on oil usage and if it is tolerable and the power is okay just run it. I have found that mine blow a lot more out the breather when running hot, so I tend to be careful about things like grass buildup at the back of the cylinder head.

 

[ekincaid]

Brian-that sounds exactly like what mine is doing smoke blown but power is fine and it seems like it starts puffing smoke after 15-20 minutes into a grass cutting session.I asked my small engine guy about it last night also he said the same as you,not a sign of a huge problem but keep an eye on it.I wasn't to happy about the prospect of having another engine apart

 

[ekincaid]

Brian-also I forgot to mention in my last post I use leaf blower every time after cutting grass to blow off my tractor to get rid of the grass clippings that built up in the nooks and crannies of engine bay etc.

 

[hydroharry]

Ethan - what oil are you using? (weight and brand) Hopefully it's a straight 30W. I think multi-grade really thins out when it's hot and contributes to the blow-by.

 

[ekincaid]

Hydro-to be honest I'm using the same 5w-30 we use here at the dealership I work at