Archive through June 03, 2016

[jchamberlin]

Harry: What is there to fail in set of points?

The component is simply a specially purposed spring-loaded set of contacts. Points fail for reasons well documented on this forum: from being new, from sitting up for some time, from use, and from just generally wearing out. I remember a black-and-white illustration from an old Chilton's manual detailing how points can develop a "cone" on one contact and a "pit" on the other, but I forget what condition the wear indicated. [Edit: Probably had more to do with the so-called "condensor" (i.e., the capacitor) than the points.]

Ideally, both contact surfaces wear evenly. Points which are new (NIP to you), may have a film on them which prevents conduction, and thus need a match-book passed between them. Other than that, there isn't much of anything to wear out on a set of points.

I doubt if the spring would lose enough of it's tension to render the points inoperable.

Just my two cents.. . .

 

[dquillen]

Group, on the 124 push blade sub frame the manual says to use the front latch to secure it. Is that really all that's required? No bolts thru the side tabs into the tractor frame? Hard to believe!

David

 

[dschwandt]

David, The long forks on the subframe slip over either the rockshaft or footrest braces depending on the model tractor, that's that's the only other contact to the tractor frame other than the quick attach.
You do have the subframe, don't you?

 

[kmcconaughey]

David Q., here's a few photos to show how the narrow frame blade sub-frame mounts to the tractor frame:

While not required, you can install a bolt on each side at the front in the hole in the sub-frame "ear", see photo:

<font size="-2">No Cub Cadets were harmed in the making of this post.</font>

 

[kide]

Jeff Baker warned:
"there was talk earlier in this tread about the 129 to hydraulic conversion, don't forget you will need to get a bushing for the tower where the handle comes out. All my 129s came with out the welded in bushing."

Jeff, thanks for the heads up - looks like my 129 (April '73) was built before the bean counters eliminated that bushing ( or after someone on the line pointed out it was dumb to have to track which ones were not getting lifts and yours were built BEFORE that) Either way, thanks! I'm planning on a disassembly night on the 149, I'm looking for a camera to keep in the barn (not too wild keeping my DSLR out there..)

Keep thinking - will this make the 129 a "129-H" ?

 

[dquillen]

Wow.......thanks for the in depth responses!!! Since the blade will live on this 124, I'll go ahead and bolt it as well. You guys are great!

David

 

[hydroharry]

Gerry - "129HL"

David - there is really no need to bolt it on. You'll just be stubbing your fingers and scraping your knuckles. If you think thru the attachment method and how the blade is used, you'll see that it doesn't come off once on. You're using the blade to "push" almost 100% of the time. Bolts are not gonna help. If you do happen to do a little scraping in reverse it's still not going to come off. Your QA (Quick Attach) latch in the front is plentry strong to hold the blade in position when used in reverse.

 

[dquillen]

Harry, I'll spend a little more time down there on the Georgia creeper eyeballing what you're saying. And, while I've got your attention, my throttle won't stay put. It slowly backs down........not hunting or anything like that. Is it some kind of friction disc at the control that's needs snugging up? Thanks

David

 

[kmcconaughey]

David Q., yes, there is a screw on the throttle control lever that you can tighten. I believe you'll need a right angle screw driver to access the screw and possibly a pliers or appropriate sized wrench to hold the bolt. I forget as it's been decades since I've adjusted one. You'll need to access the throttle control from under the fiberglass dash but between the fiberglass and the metal pedestal.

 

[kmcconaughey]

David Q., just don't do this!

 

[dwales]

I have to disagree on one thing Harry. On my 129 one of the springs on the latch had gone AWOL and in the process of moving snow the edge of the blade would occasionally hook a pile and fall off. Trying to line up the subframe with the rock shaft in the snow without having to detach the whole thing is a total PITA. I will agree that bolting it is overkill, I just started wiring the latch bar up after putting the blade on.

 

[klorenz]

Off topic Friday pic

 

[kide]

Charlie:
I see the QA Latch Springs (IH-402344-R3) are NLA. Was there somebody else making these springs ? I thought there was a thread on this in the past..

 

[wsdrake]

I got the engine tins Frank gave me put on my 108 today. I could feel the air being forced up in front of the PTO. Also, the hood didn't get anywhere near as hot as it did the other day.

Once I got the engine tins on, I took it out to mow. Turned the blades on and heard a horrible sound. I pulled the deck off, and one of those circle sections had gotten bent. Bent it back into place, threw the deck on, and away I went. Got about 2 hours of seat time today. It was nice to see it work rather than me, lol.

I am thinking the 108 is FINALLY ready to go. I will put a new fuel filter on it, grease everything else (already did the deck spindles and steering spindles), and work it some.

 

[hydroharry]

Hey Jeremiah - I forgot to respond to you. My fear on the points is that they may have developed "invisible corrosion". How well would you operate if you'd been sitting on a shelf for nearly 40 years.

David Q - "on a Georgia Creeper" - geez, you're gonna have to squeeze in then. I see Kraig gave you a lot of all the correct info about tightening up the nut and screw on the throttle. If you're really lucky you can hold the screw head with your finger and tighten the nut with a wrench/plier. It won't take but just a slight turn on the nut - probably 1/8 to 1/4.

David W - I'm not sure you're disagreeing with me. I did say the QA latch was strong enough, but that also assumes it's in good working order. If it has one broken/missing spring it ain't gonna work. Bolting on the sub-frame is then about the only really good option - since your tractor is really functioning like the older "non" Quick Attach units.

Kraig - Ooh Great One and Keeper of the Photos - got any pics handy of the infamous QA latch springs? Hope you have something showing them loose and installed. David Q is going to be creeping around on his Georgia and he won't know what he's looking for.

Billy - glad to hear the 108 seems to be functioning good. Nothing like some nice seat time and absorbing some whiffs of Kohler fumes. Your Operator Manual will show all the grease points. If you don't have one I'd download it from the Manuals section on here. Don't overlook the hard to see/locate zerk at the center of the front axle, and don't forget the zerk at the bottom of the steering column.

(Gerry - I'm thinking Jeff was just telling stories on the missing bushings, but don't say anything).

 

[wsdrake]

Hi Harry,

Thanks for the tips. Sifting through my owners manual now. I have the original one that came with the tractor, but I will download a PDF copy to put on my portable hard drive. Thanks again!

 

[dquillen]

Aww Kraig, a purty little access port sounds like a good idea And Hydro....you're right! All my cardboard is the 1/4" thick stuff. Maybe I'll try red rosin paper. Thanks to all for the help. I'll be back.

David

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's a photo of a QA latch spring. One is hot glued to the outside to show it's orientation when installed.

 

[mgwin]

Harry,

Quit breathing all that carbon monoxide (Kohler fumes) and get you a stack on that thing!

Like this:

The stack is not as tall as it appears, it's just above head level setting on the seat.

 

[kmcconaughey]

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By David C. Quillen (Dquillen) on Friday, June 03, 2016 - 03:01 pm:

Aww Kraig, a purty little access port sounds like a good idea <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>