Archive through July 18, 2012

[wshytle]

Bill-

I can't remember what the WP stands for but those are probably original bolts. Someone that knows will likely chime in. The nut you showed is a Stover nut. They're OEM in a few different places on the tractor. It looks like you need a new(er) muffler. What you see glowing might be carbon. Have you taken the head off of this engine? If not it needs to be decarboned. It's in the FAQs. That ten horse ought to give the grass anything it needs too. I've been mowing all afternoon with the 129 and the only difference is two horses.

It looks like you might want to drop back go through a few things.

A friend was over the other day and as we stood over the 129 while running he asked what was that rattle. I assumed it he meant the slight knock and being use to the sounds I didn't notice much. The next day I heard it. I was able to shake the pto and the basket pulley. I went ahead and tore it down to find this is the engine I had keyway problems with. The set screw for the locking collar fell out while I was taking things apart. The first attempt just didn't work. Today I cut a new piece of key stock with a half cut extention to access some good keyway under the collar. I also used some thread locker and torqued as hard as I could. Everything went back as it should and after a few hours of mowing everything was still tight.

I love that 129 with the 44A. It cuts so nice.

 

[thoffman]

West Pulman Works

 

[fcurrier]

2 ls (Pullman)

 

[wcompton]

Ahhh West Pullman capscrews. Boxes of the darn things and only a 169 to "correctly" use them on.

From what I understand Pullman works wasn't in a very good part of Chicago.

 

[hydroharry]

Wyatt - you definitely need to do something about getting a use for the WP bolts. There has to be some CCs around you that you could pick up and replace the darn aftermarket bolts the PO used.

Bill - thanks for posting those pics of the WP bolt and nut. Those are the originals for mounting the ISO-mounts.
Now, on your 109, since I believe you determined you have the blade/brake PTO (has the fiber disc to engage the PTO brake), as long as it's adjusted to the correct settings and the little spring with the lock nut is holding the disc with the fiber snug and not rattling around, I guess you'd be ok to just use it until the fall. I would definitely try to clean out the holes for the set screws and get PB Blaster in them several times between now and the fall/winter. I will say that as much as I believe "if it ain't broke don't fix it", the PTO is one item I prefer to know for certain is set up and operating correctly. I believe it's much easier to work on a PTO that's still working ok rather than one where the bearing is froze up or something else is wrong.
Now, about your smoke, someone mentioned the breather cover which is the most common area. You might just need an oil change or 2, and some MMO to clear it up, especially if the tractor has been sitting for some time. If that doesn't clear it up you can remove the breather cover and make sure the clearance between the lifters and valves is set correct "and the little drain hole" towards the back is not blocked up with some crude. If you can clearly tell it's not coming out the hole in the breather but close to the backing plate you were pointing to with your pencil then I would be guessing the crank oil seal.
And as for your muffler glowing red on the inside, since you have a hole in it there is no telling what has happened on the inside. As long as the engine seems to be running fine I would suspect you've got rotted metal broken off and partially blocking the exhaust and getting red hot. I'd just get a replacement (good quality) muffler and you probably won't have a problem.
Keep up the good work. I think you're about due to pick up another CC. Didn't I hear something about another one not far from you that was available for a good price, just needing a little TLC. Might even come with a snow blade just in case you need it while you're working on the 109 and 1650 over the winter.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Another source for those elusive WP bolts.... Try a Machinery Salvage yard. Or that farmer's old IH hay baler, pull type combine, plow, etc. that's setting in the weeds.

Ya'all take care and try to stay cool. It's gong to be another hot one in these parts today.

 

[dschwandt]

Wayne, Where in the world are you finding grass
that needs mowing??!!

Sure ain't within a stones throw of my place!!

We had 1-1/2" of rain here in eastern Iowa yesterday in about 30 seconds.......84 drops.....about 1-1/2" apart

 

[dfrisk]

WYATT - Didn't I tell you about the day in late 1982 or '83 that I delivered a truck load of freight to IH's West Pullman plant? Thought I did. I was trying to get a full sized trailer unloaded to pick up my back haul. And the company I drove for had trailers dropped ALL over Chicago. My Dispatcher told me to take my little trailer to some lot, drop it and take this other trailer down to IH WP. I had a REAL good Chicago map, folded out to about eight FEET square. Even had the low bridges & over-passes under 13-1/2 ft marked.

I got the the plant, got into the dock. I mentioned to one of the guys on the dock I'd worked at FARMALL for 5-6 yrs and was hoping to get called back soon. Pretty soon there was a bunch of us BS-ing on the dock, about 6-8 of us. Talk got around to the Big Strike of '79 & '80. The guys pointed out the bullet holes in the windows and walls around the place. There were other bullet holes besides the ones from the strike. The guys didn't elaborate on those.

IH used lots of "special bolts". My old Farmalls have "Dot Head" bolts, they appear to be machined from hex bar stock, the dot in the center of the head is the stub left from machining after the vibratory deburr.

The "IH" headed bolts were made at WP also. The change to WP was allowed when West Pullman wanted to expand their markets, not just be a captive supplier to IH plants.

Guy Fay wrote a great article about the WP Plant several yrs ago, maybe 5-6 yrs, in Red Power Magazine. WP also made IH's distributors, magnetos, some carb's. For just a plant that made bolts and other "Stuff", it was really BIG.

 

[wshytle]

David-

There's always something to mow here most anytime of the year. I started out mowing around the garden and kept going from there. We've had a few showers in the pm but not many. My corn was about to go under last week and we had a good rain that brought it back to life. It will still go under if another rain doesn't come soon.

 

[dschwandt]

Dennis, I've been there also, but can't remember when exactly. Just retired from trucking this spring. 30 years as an owner operator with CRST/Malone pulling flat bed and later stepdeck.

3 million accident free miles w/them plus a bunch more before from '66-'82.

BTW, just got done painting my 44" deck and accociated parts plus a couple grill castings and wheels


Dave Schwandt

 

[thoffman]

We got about a inch of rain last night, pretty much it's too little too last for the area farmers around here.

As far asmowing, I thnkik I'll be cutting the garden <u>not around it</u> soon. 8-(

You sure as h--- don't want to hang around the Pullman area anytime of the day. Bad news.

Looking at the parts lookup to figure out what switch is use on the headlight kit. The imige is crappy at best. Is the switch the turn knobby thingy or the old fashion pull out kind?

 

[ljones]

Tom, what model is the headlight kit for? All N/F used the pull out kind, the W/F (exept 82 series it had a toggle switch) used the turn knob.


Bill J, it could also be the gasket between the bearing plate and block, next time it does it get down and look, it will be easy to see if it is the crank case breather.

 

[cledford]

Suggestions in VA to get Kohler 321 rebuilt?

I've got a Kohler 321 that came out of a 1450 that I'd like to have rebuilt. Does anyone know of someone trustworthy and experienced in Virginia?

Thanks!

-Calvin

 

[jbaker]

Tom its a turn style switch, I will see if I have a extra to go with the lights for you.

 

[dclinansmith]

I am very happy to report that I think my problem may be solved. I had the same symptoms with a new coil right out of the box. I was convinced that the coil wasn't my problem. I now have the original coil from my 1970 truck on it. I took it to a friends farm today and worked it harder than I ever have. It coughed once but never slowed down. I am going to put everything back in place and wait for any sign of trouble.
Wes H. if I was going to give you any advice about your tractor I'd say try another coil that has been working on some other machine. Thanks again to all who offered help when I really needed it.

 

[pbell]

David C
Any coil you use should be one with an internal resistor (if not you need to add an external resistor), or the points will have a short life span.

 

[dclinansmith]

Paul B. The new coil I used required one but even then it didn't work. The old one I am using now has an internal resistor as far as I know. It has about 14V on the pos. side and 9V on the neg.

 

[jchamberlin]

David Clinansmith -- I'm so glad to hear you think the problem is licked. Like you, I wouldn't have thought the coil was the culprit, I guess some insulation was worn, or an internal connection wasn't being made. I'll certainly remember your story for future reference.

Thanks for getting back to us with a report of your successful diagnosis & repair.

 

[dfrisk]

Another thing to watch for when your having running issues and suspect a bad coil, look the outside of the coil over closely for damage. Basically a coil is a metal can filled with oil and two coils of small copper wire wound tightly together, one inside the other. Any dents on the outer can can short them out, or as they heat up can cause running issues. Since almost ALL these old points & condeser ignition parts are made off-shore now days, they've got several thousands miles of rough handling on them before you get them.

There are coil testing machines. A Kohler needs about 40,000 volts to run right. They wll start & run on as few as 25,000 but under load or high RPM the voltage required to fire the plug goes up. So more voltage is better when you need it.

Not to get too far Off topic, but I was running my old POS 125cc Amerachi Harley Davidson through a picked corn field one winter. A stray corn stalk hit the coil stuck up under the gas tank bolted/clamped on the underside of the top frame tube. The bike died just like I turned the key off, or maybe hit the kill button which the bike didn't have. The corn stalk put just the slightest dent in the can, you could barely see it. Just ANOTHER one of the many many times I had the enjoyment of PUSHING that POS bike home. This time it was only about a half mile. One time it was more like four miles and much hotter out.

Along the same lines, the '73 Yamaha RD-350 I had, as a 2-stroke was also prone to fouling plugs if not run hard enough. The cheapest hop up for them was to remove the two tiny plastic housed ignition coils and wire up two larger automotive coils like the Kohlers use and just hose-clamp them to the down tubes right in front of the engine. Supposedly was good for 4-5 MPH more top speed too.

 

[dclinansmith]

Dennis F. I agree 100% with what you said about coils. The new one was right out of the box not even dusty, thats why I didn't suspect it. I also know that even new parts are sometimes defective. I just let that one make a monkey out of me. At least I got some refresher courses in maintenance. I am going to use that tractor today just to make sure it's fixed.