Archive through July 17, 2011

[kide]

Matt:
You're right again - I went back and watched the video for about the 4th time.. It was the drag link end that was moved inwards on the arm.. Another fine senior moment (I like still photos, they don't go away just about the time I get my bifocals focused..)

Still want to know the purpose of those notches on the NF axles.... Clearance for some type of attachment subframe? <font size="-1"><font face="courier new,courier">(spell checker just offered me "Clarence" as a replacement for "Clearance" - "need more clearance, Clarence?" is a catch phrase in these parts just like "We need the wench" is....</font></font>

 

[thoffman]

Gerry, Now I'm thinking of "Airpalne".

I think it's 100% IH stock. Will get smoe more pix tomorrow. Won't be spending too much time out, spodda' be REAL hot tomorrow.

 

[kweaver]

Hey Tom them Cool Tools cooling ya off ?

Why does he want a wool blanky when he wears wool underwear ??

 

[kide]

Glen C.
I'm not sure if it will help or not, but if you go back here, read from the bottom of the page up, there's quite a discussion about spindles, including some good links (<font size="-2">warning, put your nomex shorts on before starting to read it, heh heh heh)</font>

Other than that, most of the loader guys can tell you about backspacing / clearance issues on wider front tires..

Tom:
I never learned to touch type, I'm actually a pretty good speller, but there are certain words that ALWAYS get typed wrong (out of sequence) on my keyboards.( <font size="-2">dyslexics of the world - untie!!!)</font>

 

[gcoleman]

Thank you Gerry, thats helpful, ive never had much luck searching back through the archives for things like this so any and all help is really appreciated. i think once i get the wheels and the wallett says i can order the V61's im gonna modify what ive already got, im not runnin a loader or anything so i shouldnt need much re-enforcement (not that i wont)

on another note, just built a custom CAT 0 three point for my cub and its built on the existing sleeve hitch, so when i wanna use the sleeve hitch, just pop the lift links, arms and top link off and slip in the brinly bracket and vise versa. ill post pics of all of it once its all yellow and shiny and such

 

[mgerecke]

Marlin,

Yes I will try switching the hydro valves to see what happens.
I am sure someone will know if the hydro units are the same for cubs like the 149, 1450, 782, 1440 etc. Currently I am going to try to find another pump to see if it helps at all.
Guys, thanks for all the help so far on my hydro.

Mark

 

[mhomrighausen]

Glen C. Tonight , I'll try and find a couple of pictures of what the inside of a ruined hydro looks like. If yours is ruined then I'd go with wht KENtuckyKEN stated and purchase another one. Buying the parts will run as much or more than purchasing another pump. Still, I'd at least try the current pump BEFORE spending the $$$. You've nothing to lose.

Mark G. Not sure about the 1440 Cub Cadet as to if it is a 15U Series or the BDU21L or BDU10L Series, however the 149 thru 782 are pretty much the same unit with manufacturer improvements in design.

 

[kweaver]

Marlin - It was Calvin with the bad hydro.

Go get another cup of coffee

 

[mgonitzke]

Mark/Marlin-

The 1440 uses the BDU-21L, I think. I know it isn't the 15U.

 

[pvanbenschoten]

Woe is me

I dropped the 90deg gear box for my 1A tiller and chipped the lower pulley. I have started searching at the usual places (Site sponsor boxes at the top of the page) but have not found a replacement yet. I haven't made any phone calls yet since this happened Sunday evening, so hopefully someone has one that isn't listed on their web page.

Assuming I eventually get a replacement, how do I get the old one off? I backed out the two set screws. I also applied some Kroil penetrating oil, maybe that needs to soak in for a few days.

I tried using my harmonic balancer puller but that didn't budge. By the way, what is a harmonic balancer? That sounds like something a musician would wear around his/her neck to keep the harmonica near their mouth

 

[kweaver]

Paul V - A harmonic balancer is a dampener on the crank of an engine ... kinda acts like the balance gears in a Kohler BUT it doesn't detonate.

How do ya get the pulley off ? Well you just keep dropping it of course and chip it away a little at a time

 

[dfrisk]

PAUL - A harmonic balancer is a small flywheel type device typically mounted on the front end of a crankshaft on a multi-cylinder engine. The hub is keyed to the shaft and is small in diameter but fairly heavy. Then an outer ring also fairly heavy is attached to the outside of the hub via a rubber ring. The idea is that the rubber ring allows the outer ring to absorb the torsional oscillations of the crankshaft allowing it to wind up and unwind without exceeding the tensile strength of the crankshaft material. Most crankshafts now days are made from cast iron, at least the Kohler cranks are, which dampens vibration/oscillation really well. A forged steel crankshaft can really wind up and unwind without a harmonic balancer. And yes, the rubber layer does deteriorate and the outer ring can slip and they loose their effectiveness which leads to increased main & rod bearing wear.

Here's more info, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic_balancer

 

[kweaver]

Dennis - Tell WIKI they need to get into the 20th century. They've been using solid and fluid dampeners for decades on some engines ... not just rubber anymore. That's why I refrained from saying they have a rubber mounted outer ring.
Now see all the extra typing you've made me do when I was trying to avoid typing so much the last time ..............................

Then WIKI can get into the 21st century in 89 years !

 

[stanner]

Paul V.
A pulley puller should make short work of getting the pulley off... a little heat may help too.. If you can't get an OEM pulley, try ordering one from graingers or mcmaster, a pulley and sheave adapter... I used one on my 149 when it switched over to a B section belt for the PTO...

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/One-Groove-Sheave-3X590?Pid=search

 

[kmcconaughey]

William, One thing to try before you go replacing the crank, would be a modified key that extends the full length of the slot. Make it like the one in my sketch below. Note that the cut out area is for clearance for the PTO bearing.

Here's what it would look like installed, except this one doesn't go full length, it's just longer than stock:

I should mention that the key slot in the above photo of my Killer Kohler is in perfect condition. The key was a hold over from the previous crank that did have some damage. The engine came in a 1x5 chassis that I bought and parted. The engine had been previously rebuilt and the person that rebuilt it made the modified key.

 

[kmcconaughey]

I found a photo of the original crank that was in my Killer Kohler, that shows the damage to the key slot that inspired the modified key. I believe the gentleman that came up with this key is named Orville, I can't recall his last name right now..., but he refurbished Cub Cadets and sold them.

Craig C., can you post Orville's last name?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tom, does that 123 turn as sharp in the other direction? Reminds me of a post by Jim Steele where he posted two photos from two different Cubs. One steered equally left and right, (top photo) the other steered sharp to the left and wide to the right (bottom photo). The difference was in the position where the hole was drilled through the spindle, not the spindle cap.

 

[dfrisk]

KEN - I only have TWO pieces of major equipment from the 21st century, Wife's car and my car, and frankly, I'm NEVER going to get deep enough into either one to find out if they have fluid dampners or the old school rubber dampners. SON did replace his dampner on his Lightning (a'93) several years ago, forget why, it was an OEM rubber dampner, which I still think is most common on OEM engines, seems like it was less than $20 @ Checker Auto.

I know a lot of the magazine articles rave about "Fluidampr" which claims to have made the first fluid dampner in 1946. So if the automotive and industrial engine OEM's haven't seen enough benefit in the 65 yrs since then, to use them as OEM, there must not be that much benefit. http://www.fluidampr.com/

 

[wdickens]

Kraig, what size key would I need to get in order to modify it so? My crank looks exactly like the one pictured, except it isn't "sloped" near the engine like that one. D*mn, I wish my engine was that clean. Looks fantastic. Here is my shaft:
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk282/1994LTCSS/100_0583.jpg

My crankshaft also has a "indented" spot where the 2nd hex bolt screws to the crank, like this:

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk282/1994LTCSS/100_0584.jpg

Plus, the actual pulley itself has a little wear on one side:

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk282/1994LTCSS/100_0582.jpg

What causes all that extra wear in the first place? Hex bolts that are not properly tightened plus extra stress from cutting thick grass, or something similar?

 

[kmcconaughey]

William, not sure what the actual key stock size is. Perhaps 1/4" x 1/4" or 1/4" x 3/8".

Should be easy for you to figure out with a steel rule. It would be best to get a pulley with a good key way so that at least one of the mating slots was fully intact. I believe the wear is caused by loose setscrews.

Regarding the clean engine in my post below; I wish it was still that clean. It's amazing how dirty they get with a few years use.