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Archive through January 30, 2012
- Thread starter sblunier
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hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Steve B - I knew someone had mentioned the 13 fin blocks were used on some of the 1650s. Glad to see your confirmation. Now, I mentioned previously the flywheel and shroud had to be changed. Can you let others know what else you may have done to your "Cheater 169". Did you change the carb linkage or switch the carb? The heat shield and muffler are specific to a 169. What did you do about these, and some of the other shields on the engine? I haven't seen a 169 muffler available in years. How about the front PTO. Did your 109 have the PTO with a brake? Just as well fill in the guys on here that may be considering making a conversion.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (especially when some parts are traded)
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (especially when some parts are traded)
New to the forum... I have a 1650 with a QA42 snow blower mounted. The blower plugs up real easily. Any suggestions on what to do to improve its function? My belt is tight, engine rpm's are up all the way and it works sort of ok in fluffy snow at REAL slow speeds for a couple moments. Then it plugs up. What can I do?
I've considered a 2 stage, but many of you seem to make the single work.
Signed, Frustrated in WI.
I've considered a 2 stage, but many of you seem to make the single work.
Signed, Frustrated in WI.
Tom B., WELCOME!
If there's any rust in the discharge chute it is going to plug up. Rust in the auger housing especially in the funnel are into the discharge chute will also cause it to plug up. The best thing to do is clean up any rust and get a good coat of paint inside the auger housing and discharge chute, then top coat the new paint with a coat of Slip-Plate or some other brand of graphite paint. Here's a link to the FAQ with a bit more info.
If there's any rust in the discharge chute it is going to plug up. Rust in the auger housing especially in the funnel are into the discharge chute will also cause it to plug up. The best thing to do is clean up any rust and get a good coat of paint inside the auger housing and discharge chute, then top coat the new paint with a coat of Slip-Plate or some other brand of graphite paint. Here's a link to the FAQ with a bit more info.
Tom Bates
I think most of your problems is with not keeping the blower working. What I mean is to force them to blow snow. wot and run into the snow at a speed that it does not kill to much rpm`s . Your exhaust could be causing so of your troubles with heat. Run um hard , most seem to do that and they do a good job .
I think most of your problems is with not keeping the blower working. What I mean is to force them to blow snow. wot and run into the snow at a speed that it does not kill to much rpm`s . Your exhaust could be causing so of your troubles with heat. Run um hard , most seem to do that and they do a good job .
TOM - The QA single stage blowers seem to work better the more they are used, the rough rusty spots get shined up with more snow going thru them.
You have to keep a single stage full of snow, you have plenty of HP in a 1650 and you should use all of it with a QA-42. And COLD snow blows better that warm snow around 30 degrees.
With things cleaned up in decent snow you should be able to shoot a steady stream of snow 15-20 feet, maybe further depending on the conditions and how you have the chute set.
Wet heavy snow tends to plug up the discharge chute, and the wetter the snow the worse it gets. DO NOT stick your hands anywhere around the blower with the blower running. Use a short wood stick to push out the plug with the blower and engine turned off.
KRAIG gives good advice on the paint and using Slip-Plate or other graphite paint.
I ran a QA-36 on a CC 72 w/10 HP engine for many years without a creeper drive in the tractor. I had to slip the engine clutch on the first pass in deep snow over 8-10 inches deep but after the first pass I could take half a swath no problem.
Snow that's been thrown where you have to move it again does blow harder so try to get it where you want it the first time.
You have to keep a single stage full of snow, you have plenty of HP in a 1650 and you should use all of it with a QA-42. And COLD snow blows better that warm snow around 30 degrees.
With things cleaned up in decent snow you should be able to shoot a steady stream of snow 15-20 feet, maybe further depending on the conditions and how you have the chute set.
Wet heavy snow tends to plug up the discharge chute, and the wetter the snow the worse it gets. DO NOT stick your hands anywhere around the blower with the blower running. Use a short wood stick to push out the plug with the blower and engine turned off.
KRAIG gives good advice on the paint and using Slip-Plate or other graphite paint.
I ran a QA-36 on a CC 72 w/10 HP engine for many years without a creeper drive in the tractor. I had to slip the engine clutch on the first pass in deep snow over 8-10 inches deep but after the first pass I could take half a swath no problem.
Snow that's been thrown where you have to move it again does blow harder so try to get it where you want it the first time.
proessler
Well-known member
Tom B.
Check out Charlie's FAQ #54, It's a good "Field Improvement Package" in addition to what everyone else posted ...PWR
Dennis Frisk
I have a single stage blower here and it is in great shape. I might have to install it on my 125 when I get it running. I think the blower needs the lower mounting bracket welded where the PO wanted a piece of steel and robed the bracket.
I have another big job for me coming in the mail this spring.I bought a powering Assembly from an 1862 and have planes to install it on my 129 loader . It will be cats A$$ i`am sure. I will have to try to get a foot control hydro perfected also on the loader.That old Kentuck promised me a look at what he called the way to do it .Since he is to busy with his Meds lol. I will give it a good try for a working hydro control.
Today I`am sanding and I`am not happy to have to sand parts.I need to find a local guy and for some labor I will give him a restored Cub cadet. ( after I get all my Keepers done )
He can have his choice of a ( Original ,or a 123)Decks and sub frames for all.
I have my 1500 Kawi Nomad to install some new parts also. I just can`t help making what I run better running and more comfortable for me.
I have been giving some thought to the point saver for my Cubs , But after installing the same type of timming device on my 1973 Norton , I had to start over leaning where the torque curve was and is after folling there directions. I had to readjust the carb and that led to much more adjustments.I know I have my 129 dialed in . I see a mist come out of the breather when I start to work it. I have learnd to set them up to work , hot running and working some. Then adjust the points and carb so they work.I look at my tractors and they don`t work like my 129 loader , I don`t let them alone till I find what is the problem .
I have a single stage blower here and it is in great shape. I might have to install it on my 125 when I get it running. I think the blower needs the lower mounting bracket welded where the PO wanted a piece of steel and robed the bracket.
I have another big job for me coming in the mail this spring.I bought a powering Assembly from an 1862 and have planes to install it on my 129 loader . It will be cats A$$ i`am sure. I will have to try to get a foot control hydro perfected also on the loader.That old Kentuck promised me a look at what he called the way to do it .Since he is to busy with his Meds lol. I will give it a good try for a working hydro control.
Today I`am sanding and I`am not happy to have to sand parts.I need to find a local guy and for some labor I will give him a restored Cub cadet. ( after I get all my Keepers done )
He can have his choice of a ( Original ,or a 123)Decks and sub frames for all.
I have my 1500 Kawi Nomad to install some new parts also. I just can`t help making what I run better running and more comfortable for me.
I have been giving some thought to the point saver for my Cubs , But after installing the same type of timming device on my 1973 Norton , I had to start over leaning where the torque curve was and is after folling there directions. I had to readjust the carb and that led to much more adjustments.I know I have my 129 dialed in . I see a mist come out of the breather when I start to work it. I have learnd to set them up to work , hot running and working some. Then adjust the points and carb so they work.I look at my tractors and they don`t work like my 129 loader , I don`t let them alone till I find what is the problem .
kphill
Well-known member
On the older snow throwers,early QA and prior,They have two paddles that throw the snow up the chute, and the later ones have four paddles that throw the snow up the chute..Does this make a difference in how much snow they can move or does it make that much of a difference?...
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Kevin - I've heard the 4 paddle work better than a 2 paddle but.... I suspect that may be only in certain situations or conditions. As Dennis describes below, the single stage throwers "force" the snow along the auger, and up and out of the shute. In effect, the more you force (drive) the snow into the thrower, the more (better) you force it out.
From the "For what it's worth department, I'm not an engineer, but logically it would seem if you have 4 paddles pushing the snow into the shute, it would provide a more even flow. On the other hand, if I recall how the 4 paddle auger is set up, it's just offset side to side from the way the 2 paddle is set up. So instead of each side of the auger bringing the snow to one center paddle at the same time, IH offset one side of the auger to the other so it would have 4 paddles - actually what might be better called 4 "half" paddles, since the other side of the paddle is open I suppose some of the snow just falls off into the part of the auger connected to the next paddle. Maybe there is an engineer on here that could do some calculations and give us some expected scientific results. If I recall some past discussions someone had found out that IH testing was done using water in a pond. I wonder what that looked like, and how they would actually do that.
From my experience I used a 2 paddle with a 1450 for at least 10 years, and thru all types of snow in CT winters. I never used the thrower until I restored it including complete disassembly, new auger bearings, needle bearings on the chain sprocket, and tear down inspection of the right angle gear box (but the bearings and gears ended up being in great condition). I straightened the auger blades and had some touch up welding done where the auger connects to the paddles. Also, I cleaned and removed all rust before priming and painting with correct IH (CCC) white paint (was not aware of the graphite paint at that time). It always worked perfect when I used it over the 10+ years. Every snow is different and you have to figure out each time exactly how to work it, but always always always run as fast (tractor speed) as you can, at full throttle so the auger is at top speed. Most of the time the snow would throw about 15-20 feet, but the lighter stuff would go about 30, and yes I actually measured the distance a few times due to these same type of discussions. Sometimes the heavier wet snow would only throw about 6 to 10 feet, almost as if it were a water arc it was so wet. If I recall correctly you want to set the shute angle as close to vertical as it will go (just slightly less that full up on the setting). Also, my shute would get blackened from the exhaust so I knew it was getting some heat but I don't recall any issue. I believe the key to best operation is good paint (no rust), full throttle, and as fast as you can push the tractor speed.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
From the "For what it's worth department, I'm not an engineer, but logically it would seem if you have 4 paddles pushing the snow into the shute, it would provide a more even flow. On the other hand, if I recall how the 4 paddle auger is set up, it's just offset side to side from the way the 2 paddle is set up. So instead of each side of the auger bringing the snow to one center paddle at the same time, IH offset one side of the auger to the other so it would have 4 paddles - actually what might be better called 4 "half" paddles, since the other side of the paddle is open I suppose some of the snow just falls off into the part of the auger connected to the next paddle. Maybe there is an engineer on here that could do some calculations and give us some expected scientific results. If I recall some past discussions someone had found out that IH testing was done using water in a pond. I wonder what that looked like, and how they would actually do that.
From my experience I used a 2 paddle with a 1450 for at least 10 years, and thru all types of snow in CT winters. I never used the thrower until I restored it including complete disassembly, new auger bearings, needle bearings on the chain sprocket, and tear down inspection of the right angle gear box (but the bearings and gears ended up being in great condition). I straightened the auger blades and had some touch up welding done where the auger connects to the paddles. Also, I cleaned and removed all rust before priming and painting with correct IH (CCC) white paint (was not aware of the graphite paint at that time). It always worked perfect when I used it over the 10+ years. Every snow is different and you have to figure out each time exactly how to work it, but always always always run as fast (tractor speed) as you can, at full throttle so the auger is at top speed. Most of the time the snow would throw about 15-20 feet, but the lighter stuff would go about 30, and yes I actually measured the distance a few times due to these same type of discussions. Sometimes the heavier wet snow would only throw about 6 to 10 feet, almost as if it were a water arc it was so wet. If I recall correctly you want to set the shute angle as close to vertical as it will go (just slightly less that full up on the setting). Also, my shute would get blackened from the exhaust so I knew it was getting some heat but I don't recall any issue. I believe the key to best operation is good paint (no rust), full throttle, and as fast as you can push the tractor speed.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Harry I know a qa 42 will throw water. Years ago I worked on a farm that had a tile plug up, water was getting ready to run into a silo access panel during a January rain. Had my 72 there with the blower on. The 10 horse in my 72 was a lot fresher than it is today, it blew a full chute of water 18 inches or 2 ft. above the top of the chute and mabey carried it 10ft from the front of the blower. It was enough to mostly get it over the crown of the drive way to the recieving building. There was a lot splashing but it worked better than him or I thought it would.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Dave R - thanks for the testimony on using a thrower with water. If it will do that it certainly will throw snow. I had also heard before about some farmers using a thrower to move piles of corn. I wonder how that looks?
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
HARRY - I saw an article many years ago in FARMSHOW magazine about moving corm with a snow blower. Guy was loading semi's from flat storage on concrete inside a building and was "vacuuming" it up, special machine run with the rear PTO of a BIG tractor.
He used his snow blower to feed shell corn to the vacuuum. I would think a snow blower would crack the kernals which the grain terminal would dock the price paid because of, but it did move a lot of corn faster that a shovel.
He used his snow blower to feed shell corn to the vacuuum. I would think a snow blower would crack the kernals which the grain terminal would dock the price paid because of, but it did move a lot of corn faster that a shovel.
Don T.-
The 129 looks great. I'd like to see a close up of those seat pan bumpers. They look very effective and I've been trying to find some improvement there.
Also, was that pic taken beck in early December or does Santa and Mr. Snowman stay out all year by the rock?
The 129 looks great. I'd like to see a close up of those seat pan bumpers. They look very effective and I've been trying to find some improvement there.
Also, was that pic taken beck in early December or does Santa and Mr. Snowman stay out all year by the rock?
Wayne Shytle
Charlie sells them or did on his site, with loaded tires and all the weight I have on my 129 it rides hard and rough .The bumpers help with the ride .That picture was taken this winter after I had the hyd lines replaced.The two xmas ornaments are now stored in the shed till next year.
Charlie sells them or did on his site, with loaded tires and all the weight I have on my 129 it rides hard and rough .The bumpers help with the ride .That picture was taken this winter after I had the hyd lines replaced.The two xmas ornaments are now stored in the shed till next year.
Lets see how many recognize what this is is for.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Left one looks like the gasket between the halves of a hydro pump...Some of those seals look about right for one, as well.
Things that make you think WTH!
Charlie "Digger" Proctor
That looks like the hydro out of a 125 . It would run in a loop up over and back down to the rear end to get fluid. I think it was made longer to dissipate heat from the hytran. I`ll post a picture in the am and have a look at my 147 and 125 .
That looks like the hydro out of a 125 . It would run in a loop up over and back down to the rear end to get fluid. I think it was made longer to dissipate heat from the hytran. I`ll post a picture in the am and have a look at my 147 and 125 .
Don T.
I know what it is.
It's the fact of what they did to it and the OIL filter that's on it.
I know what it is.
It's the fact of what they did to it and the OIL filter that's on it.
