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Archive through January 24, 2018

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kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
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Location
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Kraig McConaughey
Charlie,
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They also make no mention of Walter W. Danuser, Tulsa, Okla.,y assgnorv to Danuser Machine Works, Inc., Tulsa Okla., a corporation of Oklahoma f Application July' 20, 19567.

I wonder if the Danuser Machine Works, Inc. was a different company or something?
 
Digger and Kraig,
That's the address that's on the PDF file that Kraig sent me for the model RD-2000
They also list a location in Tulsa as well w/phone numbers for both
 
Earl-

The flat surface that David mentioned where the gaskets go is the machined part they are talking about. That's the part I called the "plane". As mentioned, the float should be parallel to this surface when held at eye level. And ALWAYS remove the float to adjust the tab...no bending down on it while installed. I actually saw a guy do that one time. Obviously it can damage the needle tip.

.
 
Kraig thanks for the info regarding the rockshaft lift plate. Sorry that I did not put in that I have a 129 model.
I have a hydraulic lift, so I assume that I could have a broken pin in the linkage to the cylinder or the one on the lift plate outside the frame that attaches to the rod that lifts the blower. Does that sound correct. Does anyone know what size pin it takes?
Earl L
 
Earl-

It takes a 5/16"x 1-1/2" heavy duty roll pin IIRC, if not it will be 1/4". Charlie may carry them but McMaster-Carr has them for sure.

.
 
Earl - that spirol pin for the Rockshaft on the outside of the frame of your 129 is a bigg'n. As Wayne mentions it's 5/16"x 1-1/2", Part No. IH-576483-R1, new CC part no. 715-3002, and Charlie does have them. I wouldn't use anything less than this double roll or spirol pin. A standard slotted pin might hold just for a temporary fix for a little while.

Good luck hammering the broken one out. Your rockshaft and the large round rod it's mounted to, have likely slipped out of alignment so you'll have to do the best you can to line them up again, so you can drive the old pin completely out. Wear some gloves and take your time - walk away when you have to.
 
Thanks for the info on the rock shaft lift. I was wondering if Fastenal would carry the pins that I need. If so how would I ask for what I need.
We have a Fastenal close to where I live.
Earl L
 
Rock shaft lift.
I have one more question on my 129. If the broken pin is in the lift plate on the outside of the frame, it shouldn't be to bad. I can remove the plate first. If it is on the shaft with the cylinder linkage inside of the frame, that could be difficult.
Does anyone who has replaced that pin have any suggestions on how to remove the cylinder linkage pin. May have to remove the shaft. ?????
Any suggestions will be appreciated
Earl L
 
Earl,

What is moving and what is not moving?

On our 149, every summer the spirol pin in the rockshaft to the lift side would break. The part that connecst to the cylinder on one end, and the deck lift pin on the other. The deck would lift, and the rear lift was fine, but when we would put the snow blade on, it would only lift about an inch. That pin is replaced from the bottom, and I didn't have to unhook anything.

I've never had the lever on the outside next to your foot have an issue. All our lift problems was underneath. When that pin would break, the lift cylinder motion wouldn't get transferred to the rockshaft correctly.
 
Earl - as Scott said you're gonna have to figure out what's moving and what's not. That will tell you which roll pin is broke.

Because you said you finished blowing and your thrower would not lift, I was pretty certain it was the roll pin in the rockshaft lever outside the frame (where the lift bar connects). However, it could be the lift arm on the shaft that connects to the cylinder. That roll pin is harder to get to. You have to work from underneath. If I recall you can't get directly over the top of it when looking down thru the frame with the tunnel cover off.

Now, one last thing that bothered me but I didn't say anything. In your first message about this lift problem you said something about seeing an "allen screw". Are you sure that's what you were seeing? I have no idea where there is an allen screw around the rockshaft lift components.
 
Earl-

If the tractor is running you can remove the tunnel cover and find the culprit pretty easy by just watching while working the lift. I agree with Scott that the broken pin will more than likely be one of the two (two lift arms) inside the frame. I've never had any issues with the lift lever on the outside. And they have to be accessed from underneath again like Scott mentioned. I remember when I did the 149 half of the broken pin was just sitting on the top and fell in my hand. The rest tapped out easily (for some reason). I always try and incorporate a little grease with the new roll pins as well. I figure they broke once and the grease might help get broken pins out easier if ever needed again. They won't work out on their own when installed properly.

Regardless of where you purchase the pins, just make sure they are heavy duty 5/16" coiled roll pins. The ones I buy from M/C come in packs so you will have extras. If you buy these put a thin coat of oil on all of the pins because they come dry as a bone and will rust in the bag while stored.

I just remembered, I have a 129 out in the barn with hydraulic lift and it's there because one of these pins is broken. I was mowing when the front of the deck caught a root. When I went to lift (before backing up) the pin broke and from that point on the deck would lift at an angle.

.
 
Wayne - hey that's all good info for Earl. For what it's worth, I've only had 1 pin break on a lift arm inside/between the frame rails, and that was the short arm that is not connected to the hydraulic cylinder. The pin on the outside of the frame broke on me twice.

I thought the pins used on the arms between the frame rails were shorter, but according to the parts look-up these pins are all the same size 5/16"x 1-1/2"
 
129 rock shaft lift
Well I got lucky on the broken pin on the lift plate.It was the in outside plate and when I installed the hydraulic system I used a bolt on the inside and a 2 inch rolled pin on the outside plate. All I had to to was put a vise grip on the end that stuck out, tap with a hammer and end of the pin came out. Then I just had to punch out the remaining piece. I am using a 2 inch pin again.
One thought. Why not use a grade 8 bolt instead of a pin. Wouldn't a bolt be easier to fix? Just a thought.
Put in a new float valve and now I have to replace the brass washer for the throttle shaft. I was thinking of cutting the old one with a Dremel. Is there a better way?
Again thanks for the ideas. I expected a bigger challenge. Sometimes we get lucky.
Earl L
 
Earl - because a grade 8 bolt wouldn't break, something else would. more expensive. harder to fix. not field replaceable.
 
Does clockwise vs counterclockwise engine rotation matter on a hydro pump,I’m guessing the answer is yes but i asking anyways
 

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