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Archive through January 13, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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nmercer

Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2012
Messages
23
displayname
Neil A Mercer
Well here I am I think this is the right page, was directed here because of posting in the wrong part of site I guess. anyway I need help identifying a IH cub cadet garden tractor I bought about a year ago I have already seen the above posts and agree that it is probably a 1200. the next thing I need to know does anyone here have any idea as to what could be causing it to backfire out the exhaust, run hot, and it has no power, it idles fine but spits fuel back out the carb when running. I have purchased a new carb for it but that did not solve the problem. any ideas anyone?
 
Ken "F",
On you question about pipe extention. Go to the local home improvenemt store and look at the bathroom drain pipe, grab handles, and other misc. piping. Lots-o-time the pipe is the same diameter, in stainless steel, and even chrome. Lot cheaper than buying a compete length for the 6-8 inches you need.
 
Neil,
You in the right spot! Can you post a photo or something to ID your tractor? Is it a gear drive? 3 or 4 speed? Hydrostatic drive? What HP is it? Any color on it? Does the ID tag say made by International Harvester, Cub Cadet, MTD or ????
 
Don T.

I thought about going to the hardware store and looking at chrome "P traps" (under sink drain pipe). Thanks for the advice on using a grab bar.
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Tom, thanks as well!
 
What is the diameter of the drive shaft on a quiet line tractor? I think I'm missing the steel ball at the rag joint end. I'm having heck of a time get the clutch adjusted correctly and after looking at the manual, I forgot about the ball where the tail end of the driveshaft goes into the trans. I'm assuming steel ball is the same size of the shaft or slightly smaller. I think I can get one at the local hardward store.
<font size="-2">(OK, no "shaft" or "steel ball" refrences please)</font>
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Neil.

Check the points, and timeing.
I have a 12hp that is acting up also, rus hot and looses power at 1/2 throttle or more.

I rte adjusted the carb but it did not help, than was informed that it could be in the timeing, but so far I have not been able to get back to work on the motor as I have little time left in the day to work on my cubs.
These 16 hour work days 7 days a week are starting to wear on me a bit.
 
Went out to blow snow tonight and had some trouble getting my 104 started. I turned the key and nothing happened. Thought "oh great, dead battery". I tried it again and got a little hum coming from under or behind the battery. I hooked up the battery charger and immediately the green light on the charger came on indicating a full charge on the battery. I turned the key again and got some more humming then some clicking then it started to turn over ever so slowly finally picking up enough speed to start the tractor. Any ideas as to what the problem is? Does a bad solenoid act like that? It sounded like that is where the humming was coming from. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Oh yeah, to top it off, I broke the darn key somehow!
Thanks in advance!
 
Tom,
The shaft is .625 how is the 3 pin driver look?any cracks?
I am not sure of the size of the ball off hand,I would go out to the shop and mic it but it is freaking cold out.
 
Tom

Sorry no photos as it is in pieces all over my shed/storagecontainer/workshop right now. it is a 3 speed gear drive 12 hp kohler it is made by IH and says cub cadet on the dash.it was originally yellow & white but previous owner painted it JD green. Lonny thanks for the tip I will be checking that as soon as I can, it is to cold to go outside and do that right now and I have to many other things to do but I will check it out soon as I can thanks again. Neil
 
Lonny
Wish I had your problem, I'm doing good if I can get 30 hrs a week right now. LOL Neil
 
Kevin C.
If it were me, I'd go to cleaning battery cable ends and other connections.
If it slowly starts picking up and trying to start, something is getting hot and making a better connection, IMHO.
 
Thanks for the info guys, and Lewis keep the balls where the belong and stay out of the cold. :cool: I think Matt gave me the info I needed.

Neil "M",
Well, we're getting closer. It's a 122, 124, 126, 128, or a 1200. Any more info or pix will help.
 
Ken F - the exhaust from a Quiet Line tractor heating the snow thrower chute on a QA36/42A was a well known problem to IH. I believe they made several changes to cure the issue. One solution was a short exhaust pipe on the muffler - this was the style where the grill screen didn't have a hole (the exhaust pipe only came about 1" out of the muffler). The problem with this style muffler was the exhaust blackened the white paint on the inside of the lower grill housing, and somewhat on the sides of it. Another muffler version had the exhaust pipe just going thru the grill screen about 1". This was the style I had on my 1450 and I never had an issue with my snow thrower (but I did get some blackening on the grill housing). There was a 3rd style muffler that had the exhaust pipe sticking about 3 inches thru the grill screen. If this is what you have you might want to consider just shortening it to about 1" past the front of the grill screen. The actual IH solution for the long and middle size pipe was an "Exhaust Deflector" Part No. 107117C1, which was installed onto the pipe with a hose clamp. I'll attach a pic if I can. If you have access to a CPE-2 Parts Catalog (parts book for most of the implemenst) you'll see this deflector listed on the last page of the QA36/42A snow thrower section. I know of at least one dealer that still has this deflector available. (Not sure if Charlie has them). As you'll see from the pic it basically directed the exhuast towards the ground. If you go this route I'd also remove it after the snow season. Hope this helps,

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
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Neil sounds like you have a blown head gasket and possibly a burnt valve. Lonny a head gasket can do that.
 
Kevin C,
Thanks for the question. I have the same problem and I was going to submit. I am going to try cleaning the terminals now. I have a 109, w/original wiring. I am wondering if there may be some resistance in the wiring OR I was also thinking of solenoid. I hope we can get some other suggestions. If these guys don't know, no one does!!!
 
Harry,

I have the muffler that does not extend through the grill. I still had the feeling that exhaust heat was warming the discharge chute. A deflector might help, but an exhaust elbow and extension might be even better.

Thanks, for the information.
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Randy,
I cleaned the battery cables at the battery and the positive battery cable at the solenoid. The connections at the battery were clean but the connection at the solenoid looked suspect. While I was cleaning those, I put the battery on the charger. The whole time the green light was lit on the charger so I think the battery is OK. I put it all back together and it started right up. I don't know if it was the battery or the connection at the solenoid. The next time I use it, I won't put the battery on the charger and then we'll see what happens. Good luck with yours!
 
Kevin,
Good for you. Thanks for the update. I will try mine soon. The only thing is you need to be a contortionist to get at the solenoid on a 109 w/o removing the fuel tank. I'll let you know.
Randy
 

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