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Archive through January 06, 2011
- Thread starter sblunier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
I finished my pallet forks for the Kwik-Way loader on my 1872 today...it was a marathon 1 day build.
I started with a KW manure fork that I never used because the tines were too short (18") and nothing would stay on them (except for manure
).
I reused the back plate and all of the loader mount points to save on fabrication. I sacrifice some of my view of the forks, but I considered it worth the trade off.
Forks are 3" channel, cantilevered under the back plate so that the upright joint is not subject to the full load, but rather the load is distributed to the plate. Forks are adjustable on a removeable 1" CRS bar via 1" black pipe sleeves.
Lift is just shy of 6' level and just over 7' at the fork tips when rolled back.
I started with a KW manure fork that I never used because the tines were too short (18") and nothing would stay on them (except for manure
I reused the back plate and all of the loader mount points to save on fabrication. I sacrifice some of my view of the forks, but I considered it worth the trade off.
Forks are 3" channel, cantilevered under the back plate so that the upright joint is not subject to the full load, but rather the load is distributed to the plate. Forks are adjustable on a removeable 1" CRS bar via 1" black pipe sleeves.
Lift is just shy of 6' level and just over 7' at the fork tips when rolled back.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Part 2:
I wanted to have an easy way to use the forks as a boom, so I added a short section of box with a grab and slip hook that can be pinned to the forks. When not in use it stores behind the back plate using the same pins.
I wanted to have an easy way to use the forks as a boom, so I added a short section of box with a grab and slip hook that can be pinned to the forks. When not in use it stores behind the back plate using the same pins.
K
kpeaney
Guest
Great set up. Love the idea of the lift hooks. If I had a loader, I'd borrow this idea.
jchamberlin
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- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
--Steve: I can see why they call you "Mr. Plow"
cengelking
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- Chris Engelking
Nice job Steven. How long are the forks?
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Thanks,
36" forks...any longer and they get out of proportion for the size of the rig IMHO. 36" gets you 3/4 of the way into a std pallet and will hold a sheet of plywood without it tipping....all I need
36" forks...any longer and they get out of proportion for the size of the rig IMHO. 36" gets you 3/4 of the way into a std pallet and will hold a sheet of plywood without it tipping....all I need
Hello guys, I haven't posted here in a good 10 yrs, but times have found me with a Cub back in the barn. I did this as a late summer/fall project- I have made a couple WH 4x4's, but always liked the Red Cubs. I hope this is in the right area-I am slightly rusty here!
Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Nice work,I got a call back on the set of forks up the road from me . I won`t be buying them, He said last time he used them it took three man to get them on the back of a truck. No good for my 129 loader (way to heavy). So now i`am thinking channel iron and make some.Next winter
.
I like red 4x4 also
Nice work,I got a call back on the set of forks up the road from me . I won`t be buying them, He said last time he used them it took three man to get them on the back of a truck. No good for my 129 loader (way to heavy). So now i`am thinking channel iron and make some.Next winter
I like red 4x4 also
Robert, WOW! That's a beauty.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=26841&id=100000268149132
This link is the best I can do - my good puter is on the blink -and am using a borrowed one- luckily I got those 2 uploaded yesterday.
Sorry to hurt the diehard Cub guys feelings, but I use Case Transaxles for my builds as they plumb easy, I have a pretty common bracketry system, and I can make the tractor turn pretty tight with no driveshafts or other hardware. Just my preference. I keep the stock engines -when available. My biggest endeavor is to try to end up with a "stock" kinda look when done. This one was a little tougher since I went from a gear drive to automatic.I don't have much for Cub parts so I had to improvise a little. The drive line consists of a stock case pump feeding a Case control valve then onto the wheel motors. The steering on this tractor is done through what used to be the lift side of the spool valve. I just toggle the valve with a link fabricated to the original steering column shaft. I am currently building a JD318 and WH520H they will be running the JD power steering valve and will keep the hyd lift. The WH has a Case 3pt added to the back and will have front hyd lift also, with remotes. I started simple with the first few tractors now I am more comfortable with hydraulics and am venturing out a little! I also would like to do a yellow/white Cub maybe next winter, we'll see how it goes on these other two.Any questions I'll try and answer!
If any of you guys like other breeds I can add you as friends on Facebook- Its where I have been storing my pics while puterless, I can throw-em on there right off my cell phone. I have a new album with the JD build, and some pics of previous Wh's- just send me a friend request and a message letting me know you are from this forum.
Jerry- I have a cousin-Mike Rock- He grew up in the BattleCreek area. I have lost touch with him - are you close to the party you know? If so ask him if he has relation in Portland Mi- I really would like to get in touch with him- especially if hes into GT's!!!
Bob in Mi
This link is the best I can do - my good puter is on the blink -and am using a borrowed one- luckily I got those 2 uploaded yesterday.
Sorry to hurt the diehard Cub guys feelings, but I use Case Transaxles for my builds as they plumb easy, I have a pretty common bracketry system, and I can make the tractor turn pretty tight with no driveshafts or other hardware. Just my preference. I keep the stock engines -when available. My biggest endeavor is to try to end up with a "stock" kinda look when done. This one was a little tougher since I went from a gear drive to automatic.I don't have much for Cub parts so I had to improvise a little. The drive line consists of a stock case pump feeding a Case control valve then onto the wheel motors. The steering on this tractor is done through what used to be the lift side of the spool valve. I just toggle the valve with a link fabricated to the original steering column shaft. I am currently building a JD318 and WH520H they will be running the JD power steering valve and will keep the hyd lift. The WH has a Case 3pt added to the back and will have front hyd lift also, with remotes. I started simple with the first few tractors now I am more comfortable with hydraulics and am venturing out a little! I also would like to do a yellow/white Cub maybe next winter, we'll see how it goes on these other two.Any questions I'll try and answer!
If any of you guys like other breeds I can add you as friends on Facebook- Its where I have been storing my pics while puterless, I can throw-em on there right off my cell phone. I have a new album with the JD build, and some pics of previous Wh's- just send me a friend request and a message letting me know you are from this forum.
Jerry- I have a cousin-Mike Rock- He grew up in the BattleCreek area. I have lost touch with him - are you close to the party you know? If so ask him if he has relation in Portland Mi- I really would like to get in touch with him- especially if hes into GT's!!!
Bob in Mi
Robert,
Are you using 2-speed Case transaxles, or did they make a single-speed? The hydraulic drive would make for a simple setup. Where do you put your feet?
I don't know this guy well. He bought some stuff from me off ePay a couple years ago. He contacted me through them to buy some parts a couple months ago, but I think they're blocking our communication. I no longer have his e-mail and mine has changed since he had it. I think he lives near Portage, but I haven't had any luck tracking down a phone number.
Jerry
Are you using 2-speed Case transaxles, or did they make a single-speed? The hydraulic drive would make for a simple setup. Where do you put your feet?
I don't know this guy well. He bought some stuff from me off ePay a couple years ago. He contacted me through them to buy some parts a couple months ago, but I think they're blocking our communication. I no longer have his e-mail and mine has changed since he had it. I think he lives near Portage, but I haven't had any luck tracking down a phone number.
Jerry
I can see the tail end of the foot rest on the lift side. The case transaxles make the tractor a little wider that I realized. I didn't expect room that much room between the fender and tunnel. So do you have to shift the front and rear separately or do you have some sort of linkage rigged up between the two transaxle shifters? Are the hydraulic motors plumbed in series or parallel?
The Hyd motors are plumbed in a series.I have been running 8.5" wheels and have been changing the centers so the offset is at its max. That way I can gain more room for the foot boards. Usually there is just enough room to get a workboot in/on them for width and thats it.Hi-low range is shifted manually at each end.
mhomrighausen
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- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Case/Ingersoll tractors are NOT hydrostatic propelled. They are hydraulic propelled. There is a difference. Colt was the first hydraulic propelled garden tractor line. Case had Colt manufacture the Case line of hydraulic propelled garden tractors. Wheel Horse was the first to introduce the hydrostatic line of garden tractors using a different type of Sunstrand hydrostatic unit. WH beat cub Cadet by around six months for introducing the first hydrostatic propelled garden tractors. Cub Cadet was the first to use the 15U Series.
