Archive through January 02, 2018

[pbell]

Happy New Year to all and I hope you all have at least as good a coming year, if not better, as you had last year.

 

[digger]

Hot Dang!!!!!!!

There he is!

 

[mfrade]

Hello Paul Bell!!! Dang it's so nice to see your name come up here!

And may 2018 be a whole lot better for you and your family than the last!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul, welcome back! Thanks, and a Happy New Year to you as well.

 

[mgwin]

Hello Paul!!!!

Glad to see you posting again. Looking forward to more posts from you with your expertise on cubs.
You made my day.

 

[fcurrier]

 

[digger]

So a while back the subject of the washer in a gear drive came up.
I was going through some PDF's I scanned years ago to add somewhere, LOL And found this.

 

[digger]

I gotta quit reading this stuff or I'll be up all night!
In case you didn't know, Which I didn't!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, the info on slotting the clutch lever hanger bracket is interesting. I wonder if the factory holes are off on some of the frames or brackets or if it's just the nature of the beast? Other than my Original I don't have any gear drive Cubs so I've never messed with the clutch setup. Well, I do have that 1450 with the factory cold start hydro release clutch... But I've not touched it since I hauled it home. (Actually I hauled it to the farm which is close to home.)

 

[mpatterson]

Dumb question time!!
Cub 100, the push pull light switch, there anything special about them? Can I use a regular toggle switch temporarily to use lights until I find another push pull switch? My lights don’t work. Checked fuse and it seems okay, nothing fried on it? Have to double check wires for a break and see if any power getting to switch. But think the switch is the issue??
Certainly would make plowing snow at night a little easier?!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mike P., it's just a simple SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) on-off switch. Any on-off toggle switch should work.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mike P., CC Specialties carries replacement light switches. The original style which are excellent quality but expensive, and another style which are much lower cost. It might be possible to repair the old one so give it a shot before you toss it out.

 

[memorgan]

Kraig, like how you stated lower cost...instead of ..cheaper..

 

[dschwandt]

Mike P.
Dirty and/or corroded contacts.
Try turning the switch knob back and forth, back and forth, repeat a number of times in both positions, blow it out good w/air. May just start working again. The electrics on these old machines do not play well with the elements after all these years.

 

[digger]

Mike P.
Get some electric contact cleaner spray and spray the snot out of for a day or so, Then blow it in out and around really well. I've fixed many switches that way over the years.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mick, "cheaper" implies low quality, which may be the case but I didn't want to give that impression if it's not the case.

 

[mpatterson]

Thanks all, will have a good look at it! Appreciate it, let you know how I make out!

 

[mgwin]

Which type of Case/IH hydraulic fluid should be used in the early cub cadets?

It seems there are several options now.

 

[digger]

Nope, there's only one Hytran option man. ;-)

 

[wcompton]

Mike P.-
The CC light switch on the narrow frames mounted to the side of the pedestal was just the same as teh Farmall run/stop ignition switch (the two terminal version, not the single terminal), with a different knob.

So... save the screw-on knob and you'll have a new switch.