Archive through February 12, 2011

[pvanbenschoten]

Donald Tanner,

Last October you were taking about using fiberglass to patch a snow thrower/blower. I've looked in the archives but I didn't see anything about results?

Did you ever try it, and how has it held up?

 

[digger]

Kent S.
The 82 series manual in the Manuals section doesn't help you?

 

[jchamberlin]

Kent --Its not too hard to rebuild that carb. Just replace the parts you receive in the rebuild kit. Two key points:

1. If your inlet valve seat is replaceable (not all are), you'll have to run a tap through it in order to thread in a screw so you can pull it out. CAREFULLY press the new one in, DO NOT use a hammer, as any burr will hang up the inlet needle valve.

2. Set the float so that when you turn the top upside down (valve closed) the float is level with the top of the carb.

I failed to do either of these things (the kit did not come with instructions of any kind), and I learned the hard way. Setting the float level, and making sure that it operates (floats) correctly is the most important thing, after a good soaking in carburetor cleaner.

I don't have a way of scanning the B&S Service Manual at home, but really, there is not much to it. However, your neighbor might want to make the twenty dollar investment in the manual, if only to support your helping him with the tractor.

 

[mgonitzke]

Kent-

If I was home, I'd scan the manual for it. You'll need it, particularly if you haven't worked on any smaller B&S carbs. Jeremiah's experience is exactly why you need the manual. There's several small parts in there that must be assembled correctly for it to work right.

Charlie-

I haven't looked at the 82 series manual in the manuals section, but I do know that the original IH service manual for the 82 series tractors that I have at home doesn't have any engine-specific info in it, probably because so many different engines were used in the 82 series tractors.

 

[dtanner]

Paul Van Benschoten

If you look in the sand box under (450 snow blower refurb) you will see where I used two part epoxy to do a repair on my snow blower. the patch I put on is still in place.Because of a broken part I was unable to give the repair much of a test. I do believe that repair will out last the blower. Do you have a repair in mind for your snow blower ?

 

[wvogel]

Hey guys, I haven't posted in a while, but I've been lurking. I am hoping to get some advice on how to get the screws out of the foot rests on a 147. There has got to be a good way to do this. I am trying to remove the fenders and have gotten the other bolts out, but these foot rest screws have got me stumped. I really don't have access to anything but hand tools and my hands/arms are not nearly strong enough to budge these things. I have soaked them in PB Blaster as well. Thanks. Help?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wes, get an impact screw driver, one of those that you hit with a hammer and it turns slightly with each hit. Like this IMPACT SCREW DRIVER only you may want to get a larger driver tip, one that better fits the slot in those screws, just be sure it's OK for use in an impact driver.

 

[pvanbenschoten]

Don,

No, I don't have a repair in mind. For some reason I was thinking of your repair and decided to look for results.

I use Fiberglass and Epoxy on my wood kayaks, so I have some around incase I ever need it.

 

[jchamberlin]

Kent S --I conscripted my wife's multi-function printer to scan in the 8 pages in the B&S Service Manual from Disassembly to Reassembly of carburetor.

You will need the number of the engine from the stamped side cover to identify which engine you're dealing with, otherwise a lot of the instructions don't make a lot of sense.

I will post as many as the limit allows and follow up with the others until they're all uploaded. Charlie or Kraig may be able to bind them together and load them in the Manuals forum.

By-the-way, Charlie, the Service Manuals in the Manuals forum cover the removal of every engine that ever shipped in an 82 series tractor, but it doesn't get more in depth than that on component repairs.

Page 1 of 8

Page 2 of 8

Page 3 of 8

Page 4 of 8

Page 5 of 8

 

[jchamberlin]

Kent S --I think I can get the rest into this message:

Page 6 of 8

Page 7 of 8

Page 8 of 8

That should do it.

Good Luck, Kent.

You can do it!

 

[wshytle]

Wes-

Kraig has the best and first thing to try in most cases but if that doesn't work I've welded nuts on the bolt heads (thus ruining the bolts) and then backed them out with a wrench. I've only had to do this once with about a week of presoaking with PB. Usually Kraigs idea works; be sure the screwdriver head matches as closely as possible.

 

[jchamberlin]

Kent S --Final thoughts: I wouldn't mess with removing the throttle plates if I were you. The tiny machine screws holding them in are typically staked and they tend to break when you try to remove them.

If the throttle shaft is worn, and air is leaking in around it, the only repair is often the replacement of the carburetor itself or, if possible, replacement of the throttle shaft bushings.

Needle and seat are definitely worth replacing and float adjustment is critical.

 

[dhess]

Looking to put ag tires on 782 for plow days. Thinking 8.50 tires would be better than 10.5 tires, more pounds per sqare inch, better traction. Whats the best combination for best traction?

 

[tpennell]

I removed my first loaded tire from the cadet today. Wow, there must be an easier way and of course I am new and had no idea. Just call me "rookie".

 

[gpeterson]

Will be painting my 82 series soon!!! Just finished looking at the paint codes in the FAQ (great info)and did not see anything listed for the Restoration Series paints sold at Fleet Farm. My question is has anyone tried this paint and also does anyone know the code numbers for the Red and White of this series paint? Later Glenn

 

[tpennell]

Wes, If the impact driver does not work and you strip and/or break the head off. You can buy a screw extractor which is a bit with flutes on it. You drill a hole in the center with a drill bit that comes with it and then hammer in the extractor and hopefully turn it out. Another option and it sounds like I am "BS"ing you is if it is not stuck real bad you can buy left handed drill bits which when you drill them out it turns the screw out while your doing it. Hope this helps

 

[dwilkinson]

Wes: Use some heat on those foot rest screws in conjunction with the other suggestions on here.

 

[wvogel]

Thanks guys. I bought an impact screwdriver and I'll try it tomorrow. I'll let y'all know how it works out.

 

[sblunier]

Glenn,

I have used Velspar Restoration paint. Nice paint, but in the spray cans it can dry a little too fast if you are painting larger parts (hard to keep a wet edge). Leaves a nice finish and applys well.

82 series use plain old IH red (2150) so the cans marked IH red will be just fine.

These fenders and weights were done with a Velspar Restoration rattle can...(battery exploded on the fenders of an otherwise 95% factory 782

)

Foot rest screws:

If all else fails a sharp cold chisel used on the edge in a counter clockwise direction will almost always get them out...but you will have to replace them (I do anyway, as they are a maintenance nightmare)

 

[sblunier]

Daniel,

10.50 Tru-Powers. IMHO, more lugs biting is worth much more for traction than ground pressure in these small machines.

(8.50 Firestones would be my only 8.50 choice.....)