Archive through February 11, 2013

[dtanner]

Jeff l baker

I see your lens is not clear . I used a head light kit that they sell now for cars and one can make that lens clear again. I have a kit here and it does make a huge difference. Just a thought if you were doing a full restore and wanted a clear lens .

 

[jbaker]

Must of been on the proto-type, the parts look up shows same part number for 169 and QLs

Thanks Don I was going to get a kit to try on our mini van..

 

[thoffman]

Dug out the manual box and Jeff is correct. It shows the meter like Jeff posted. If one were to order one do the look the same as the old ones? Could a person bring it back to zero with attaching it to a battery charger until it goes around to zero?

 

[kphill]

Tom, Here is the one on my 169

 

[hydroharry]

<font size="+2">HEY!!!!</font> - there is a BIG DIFFERENCE between the hours meters (maintenance minders) that Jeff posted and the one in Kevin's pic. Jeff, I think yours are later replacements. I've seen those on some of the Quiet Lines. The "correct one" for a 169 has to have the white IH in the top center and the black/white hour glass next to the word HOURS at the bottom center (both like Kevin's and mine). I posted a pic of mine on the 169 before but here it is again. (Also, if it doesn't say BORG at the bottom then you have not been assimilated).

As for Tom's question - if you ordered one now I'm nearly certain it wouldn't have a white IH, if you could even get one now. And as for running it back to zero, I don't know why you couldn't.

 

[kphill]

If I remember correctly Harry, There are three styles of the hour meters...The 169 had the IH face, The quietlines and some later had the face like jeff posted, and the third style had a different face as well...Someone posted the three together one time years ago, But I forget were they are...

 

[dhoadley]

Good morning all. I've joined your group as my brother-in-law has turned me on to IH Cubs and I'm in the process now of replacing my hastily purchased cheap-o rider off Craigslist last year. I've always lived on a postage stamp property that I could cut in 15 minutes with my push reel mower. Last year, I got a place that's a 1/2 acre and got that rider knowing I would want to replace with something that would be long term, but didn't know what. Now I've found you guys! My question is, all I'm going to use it for is to mow and light hauling. I have quite the hill in the back that the 12.5 briggs works to get up. There's a pristine 86 and very nice 1000 for sale in my area, but I'm concerned about the lower HP. Any thoughts? Thanx, Dave

 

[aaytay]

David-
Welcome to the forum. The tractors you mention would be great for what you're talking about doing with them. While more HP is always nice, these lower hp tractors can mow grass, pull a moldboard plow, or move snow with a thrower or blade.

You mention that your new place is 1/2 acre. As long as you're not an over large guy AND on very steep hills, either an 86 or 1000 will be PLENTY of tractor for the job. You'll usually run out of traction well before you run out of power in most applications. The only limitation is that you'll be limited to a 38" or 42" mower deck, but for a 1/2 acre lot, that should not be a problem as you wouldn't want anything bigger anyway.

In my opinion the 86, while lower HP than the 1000, is a bit more desireable than the 1000 from a 'collector' point of view. Also since the engine in the 86 is solid-mounted you would not have to worry about worn out rubber engiine iso-mounts or some of the driveline issues that plaged the 1000/1200-series tractors.

Of course all of this is a moot point because once you buy your first cub and hang around here for awhile it won't be your last Cub!

 

[dtanner]

Tom Hoffman

( Could a person bring it back to zero with attaching it to a battery charger until it goes around to zero? )

answer is yes: Frank C over there in Maine sent me one that he connected to a battery and left it run till it shows all 0000. I think the plan is to install it on the 123 when it is completed.

Light Rain and fog here this am. The snow won`t last long now. Morning Denny !

 

[bjamison]

David - I would think either tractor would get the job done. More hp is usually desirable, but not necessarily a requirement. I can't imagine IH selling a GARDEN tractor (like the 86 as an example) that wouldn't handle mowing, plowing etc. The 1000 would be desirable from a HP standpoint IMHO vs the 86, but the 86 would be simpler to work-on vs a quiteline series and perhaps an engine swap to a higher hp would be an easier too.

So my vote would be for the 86.

Harry B - I'm answering a quick question for a change, how am I doing...

 

[dfrisk]

TERRY D, DON T - The wear on the brake shaft Terry is talking about is from the sissor shaft from the mule drive for the mower deck. The older tractors used the edge of the sissor arm to run against the clutch/brake shaft and would wear a flat spot on them. I've had to weld up my 72 twice. Last time I welded a piece to the sissor bar to distribute the wear better like IH did on the newer WF tractors. That was probably 15+ yrs ago and no wear since.

So weld it up and grind it round again.

 

[hydroharry]

Bill J - quick answer to your answer to a quick question - nice shot

 

[dtanner]

Dennis Frisk

Thanks Denny ; it is good to know I got that answered corectly.I`am installing new belts on a friends crapsman snow blower and think it ain`t build like my Snapper .

 

[tbdavis]

Dennis - really appreciate your post on the wear spot. I was thinking it had something to do with the mower deck but have never been 100% sure. Will be welding that dude up pronto! Thanks again for straightening me up once and for all. Oh, have a 126 with the same problem!

 

[dfrisk]

TERRY - I seem to remember welding up my 129 once too. For some reason my 982 doesn't wear the rod out.

 

[eblake]

hey yall....just went n got a couple pics of the 169.....what does the * after the serial # mean?????
ill post the pics tonite after the kid gets em off the camera....lol

 

[dtanner]

Dennis Frisk

Just a thought

; I wanted to buy some sleeve bearings and drill out all the holes in the brake rod attachment points and a washer and clip. I bet that would work for a life time to eliminate wear to repair again.I bet that would improve the operation of that assembly.I have looked at it and the cost would be small to do a fleet of Cubs .? any thoughts !

 

[stanner]

Don T,

I did a lot of that over the years on the 149 with waller'd out holes... drill them out, and place a bronze flange bushing in it's place... gets rid of slop real quick..

 

[dtanner]

Scott Tanner... Looking for "round tuits"...

Well thanks for that lol, I hoped I was not the only Cub guy that pondered that improvement over stock.And "if" you did not want to take the time to weld the rod and file lol. Some type of filler could be used to fill the worn part on the rod end.A little wax paper next to the sleeve bearing and fill , slide it(the bearing) on and clean up the excess . I have taken those rods off the 147 and some of my other cubs and tweaked the fit . I bet I could build a tough tractor and I did when I put the loader on my 129; Someday I want to install a CV drive shaft from a new tractor. just to eliminate a possible breaking point. "someday"

 

[jbaker]

Eliza the * does not mean anything

Dont for get to send engine and tractor serial number to Art for the 169 database, if you would

[email protected]