Archive through December 30, 2012

[sblunier]

As Denny has said MANY times on here......IH used parts from many different suppliers, sometimes concurrently on the line, and they often times had 2+ vendors for each item..........it is very possible that IH used a vendor who chose to weld rather than bend, and that those rods were occasionally mixed in on the line......

....AND.....it is a very common fix for an owner/dealer/repair shop to weld a cut off bolt to the end of a broken bent rod to make it work again..........

......AND.........WHO CARES?!?!?!?!!?!!?!?....to Tom's point....I ain't gonna crawl under and look...as long as it works like it's supposed to.

....I like my TAIL LIGHTS to be RED and my LIFT RODS to be on SOMEONE ELSES tractor (it's all hyd. lift for me baby!!!!).........beyond that, it's details I won't sweat.....I modify everything to my liking anyway...so the correct police would likely pull over all of my tractors and write out a list of violations longer than Elwood Blues'!

Now, back to the garage to work on my "Super" #2 Tiller, to be used on my off topic (982S AKA red 2072).....

Maybe we all need some snow so we can go play with our toys..........

 

[smmiller]

Hey Guys,
I am new here. I just got a 1964 cub cadet 100 with the 10HP engine off Craig�s list for my son for Christmas. ( I know the age thanks to the FAQ and the sponsor with the monthly build report) He is 5 and he loves it. After building a ROP and adding lights, a new battery, a tie rod and sticker kit this thing looks pretty good. The reason for writing now after a few days of hauling sticks and stuff around the yard and it has developed a strange knocking sound. It seems to be getting louder and sounds like clattering metal but is not consistent like a rod knock. As a side note there is quite a bit of blow by but the thing runs great. I have listened with my stethoscope and the sound seems to be the loudest around the cam cover however i have also noticed the pulley that drives the starter generator is loose. I have read in the archives and I see i could be looking at the pulley, the cam end play, lifter adjustments, piston slap or connecting rod bearing issues. My question is where do I start. I would like to just take the pulley off and see if the issue goes away but then how would I start it. Can this be started by pushing it in gear? Also on that note, is it possible to fix the pulley looseness and if so how? I am pretty mechanically inclined but as a result sounds like this bug me to the point I cant let them go. My son on the other hand does not care. He just loves having a tractor that is his size. Thanks,
Steve Miller

Plant City FL,
Charlie was here.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Steve B. THANK YOU!!! I think cabin fever is starting to set in. Tomorrow Angel and I see the doctor for our six month checkup. No Cub time tomorrow unless I feel really up to it afterwards.

Guys... Need some input on this 147 that I'm working on. I can't afford an electric lift so I am going to put a manual lift on it. It is really a neat little tractor. My question is should I sell those electric lift parts or keep them in reserve in case I decide to sell the tractor? I was blessed and a friend found a really good manual lift handle for $10.00. I don't like destroying the 147 with the lift not being OEM however the $$$ doesn't justify the electric lift for what I'd be using it for. Or should I look into one of those Northern Hydraulic linear actuators for around $150.00? And even that sounds like a lot of money.} TIA.

 

[mpatterson]

I agree! Art, if that 169 has bearings in it like that, there is no way I can afford to own one, let alone rebuild one!

So on a more Serious note! How's that blower & cab work'n for you?

We were fortunate here, we have about 20 to 25 inches of snow now on the ground if not more. That has all come in the past two weeks. Before that is was green & brown grass everywhere. My poor shoulder is taking a beating from using the walk behind blower. Certainly going to have to change that soon, real soon! Where you guys buy them fancy pumps for on a cordless drill to load your tire tubes with washer fluid? Thinking I am going to need one of them. Don't think they are expensive, but can't remember where you guys had said you found them before?

So, I am needing to buy a garage heater to work on my 782. Any suggestions? I can't afford a furnace and the insurance company will not allow a wood stove in there. Anyone have any luck with the radiant propane heaters that run off a 20lb bbq tank? They any good? Have a garage about 24'x24', insulated to heat. Don't need it tropical in there, just warm enough that I can work without gloves on and perhaps just a jacket and not a parka and snow suit! Gee whizz, working in the cold on steel SUCKS!

 

[fcurrier]

Mike: For temporary, quick, heat a Monitor heater is great! I'm "storing" one for my brother and "testing" it ocassionally. It's my fall and spring heat for the Cubhouse. Winter has me in the cellar with the woodstove. I haven't tried it, yet, but I think if I take the tires/wheels off I can fit a CC into the cellar through the Bilco (35" clearance). Also thinking of going from firewood to wood pellets after next winter. Selling the splitter and Ashley would go quite a ways toward paying for a pellet stove.

 

[jbaker]

Harry yes a long day at church and then errands afterwards and the pictures for then forum.

I think that Steve is correct that both welded and bent may have been used at the build time.
Although bent is probaly more correct for a restoration
Here are 109,129,169

 

[wshytle]

Steve M.-

First of all welcome.

It sounds to me you do need to eliminate the basket pulley as a possible problem. It doesn't sound like you're using the pto yet but if the basket pulley is loose it can really mess up the crank keyway and that's not good. I'd get into that and if the sound persist then you've at least eliminated one possible source.

Hope this helps for starters.

 

[jbaker]

Steve M welcome I will let the narrow frame guys handle your question

I finished the hydro lift arm repair

 

[dcmay]

A neighbor called and said his 128 quit moving.He had been pushing snow and I thought he may have sheared a pin.Removed the cover,started the engine and low and behold the drive shaft is turning but not moving.The drive shaft moves forward about 1/2"and turns freely.If you move it rearward that !/2" it engages and moves forward or reverse.Lots of metal shavings in the side rails and on the diff.This is the first diff failure I have ever seen in 34years playing with these c/cs.What lets the drive shaft slide forward?
Dan

 

[jbaker]

Went to think about my HOHOHO hydraulics on the 169 when I noticed something missing, Good thing I have a suitable replacement.

Now on to something else,
What is with these numbers that are written inside all my dash towers

 

[jharder]

Good evening,
I am wondering who I could ether email or call for advise on governor issuse on a kt 17 series 2? Its in a 80 782. I have got one bout to drive me to drinking Ha ha. Thanks for the help and info Jim

 

[proessler]

Mike P , I have a Desa,HD15,10K-15K BTU,with Low, Medium, High,Off settings that I've used to heat 2 car garage in about 15". They also made a double head heater. desateh.com
It makes a great backup heater especially if my Modine Hot Dawg in my shop shuts down.

It warms up my Cub Cadets & IH Super C!
Mr. Heater also makes a double head unit up to 35K BTU for $70
Replaced drive belt on QA42A yesterday & then during field demo, spiral pin came out of driveshaft on the back side of the little Diesel...

 

[digger]

Well let's really change the subject, LOL
I just had a guy email that just found and brought this home.
He thought it was 518, but we all know where that one is.

 

[nbartee]

Jim H.
I directed a question to you asking if you adjusted the governor per the manual. If you answered I didn't see it. I also have a 1980 682/782 and replaced my kt17 with an M18 (essentially the same engine) that I rebuilt, so I'll try to help if I can.

 

[tturner]

Niceee O

 

[lcarter]

Jeff, don't know for sure but we had a build sheet for a certain day of production. Our assemblers wrote the last 3 digits of the serial number on their assemblies and also the order they were to be used. Of course later they went to a paper tag and scanners to make sure the right assembly went to the unit it was built for that day. Steve is right about numerous venders, but the cost of welding versus using a die would make me think the welded parts would only be used sparingly. However as a bean counter once told me, this company will save a dollar regardless of how much it costs.

 

[hydroharry]

Sean - that is a nice 72. Could you get a blade to use?

Jeff - geez, you got me in trouble. Thanks for posting the pics. The hydraulic lift handle looks as good as new (I can't say anything about the other pics or I'll get in trouble). Maybe Dennis or Larry can fill us in on the numbers inside your dash tower. I see an 8 and a 9, and a 9 crossed out with an 8 next to it. Maybe an 8 was for manual and 9 for hydro so the line knew easily what each tractor was. I've seen those marks inside the towers before myself but never paid attention to the actual numbers.
Larry (under edit) - I see you posted some info while I was typing.

Frank C - geez that K341A is looking nice. I'm sure glad you decided to work on it over the winter.

Daniel M - I'm really not much of a gear drive guy but since others haven't posted I'll give you some starters. I doubt your neighbor does have a differential problem. It is more likely a roll pin. Your ability to move the drive shaft back and forth is probably due to the way it hangs on the clutch release lever and hanger especially if one or both of the roll pins at the differential coupler is broken. (I prefer to call it a coupler but IH lists it as a bushing in the parts book). The metal shaving are probably the roll pin splitting up or even from the broken roll pin turning inside the coupler and cutting the shavings. It's not usually an eash repair and probably has to be worked on from underneath. But you should be able to see it somewhat from the top with the frame cover removed, and tell which roll pin it is by rotating the drive shaft. If the coupler moves with the drive shaft then it's probably the very rear roll pin connecting the coupler to the diff output shaft. If the coupler doesn't move when you rotate the drive shaft then it would be the front roll pin connecting the coupler and driveshaft together. It's also possible both of the roll pins broke. Now I could be wrong but this is worth investigating. I've had this problem with narrow frame units but not a W/F 128.

 

[wshytle]

Jeff-

How did you repair that lift arm? If that's a fill and redrill then you did a great job. It looks like new stock.

 

[scorder]

Thanks Harry! I do have a blade have just always wanted a snowblower. Drug this cub out of the fence a few years ago and finished it this last summer. Couldn't believe it when the old 8hp kohler fired right up after I got it cleaned up.

 

[bfinfrock]

Hello,
I have a QA-42 snowblower on my 122. Can I mount this blower onto a 149?
What would it take to attach this blower onto the 149? The blower is a hand
full on the 122. I'm thinking it would be cheaper to mount the blower onto
the 149 than to buy a creeper gear for the 122. Thanks for any info. Brian