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Archive through December 28, 2015
- Thread starter digger
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Oh Harry is real, LOL
He lives out your way (Mill Creek, Washington )and will chime in before long.
He lives out your way (Mill Creek, Washington )and will chime in before long.
Course there's probably 50 or more guys lurking on here right now that could give you a list to start out fixing things.
The first thing I would do would be to push those to release buttons down on the top of that pump so you could pull it back to the barn, then stick a phillips screw driver in the end of that input shaft and see if it will turn.
The first thing I would do would be to push those to release buttons down on the top of that pump so you could pull it back to the barn, then stick a phillips screw driver in the end of that input shaft and see if it will turn.
"The first thing I would do would be to push those to release buttons down on the top of that pump so you could pull it back to the barn, then stick a phillips screw driver in the end of that input shaft and see if it will turn."
There is a pump? I can free up the transmission to push it? WTF happened to my shaft? Where did my posts go? Did I do too many pics... without hitting enter? Forums are all different...
Hydro Harry is nowhere near me. States are huge on the West coast! I only want to hear about him if I can ship my transmission to him to get a restoration back!
There is a pump? I can free up the transmission to push it? WTF happened to my shaft? Where did my posts go? Did I do too many pics... without hitting enter? Forums are all different...
Hydro Harry is nowhere near me. States are huge on the West coast! I only want to hear about him if I can ship my transmission to him to get a restoration back!
Jared M.
Your way past the Introduction thing, LOL
Your already into the DEEP Do-Do section with the rest of us.
Since you and I seem to be the only one's up tonight, take some penetrating oil/spray, wire brush and some elbow grease and spray them down good ( NOT WD-40) LOL
Clean them up and gently tap them down. If they stay down, don't worry about it.
Get it back to the shed and go from there.
IF the input shaft turns, your way ahead of the game, and might not have big problems.
They will pop back up when you get it running again.
Your way past the Introduction thing, LOL
Your already into the DEEP Do-Do section with the rest of us.
Since you and I seem to be the only one's up tonight, take some penetrating oil/spray, wire brush and some elbow grease and spray them down good ( NOT WD-40) LOL
Clean them up and gently tap them down. If they stay down, don't worry about it.
Get it back to the shed and go from there.
IF the input shaft turns, your way ahead of the game, and might not have big problems.
They will pop back up when you get it running again.
Thanks digger,
I'll post again once I try that. Pressing those nips in seems like too good to be true...
Seriously though, is there an unadulterated view of all posts? I see the archives at certain dates... do I have to wait till you post a collection before I can review everything? Also can you PM on here? I'm so obviously new to this forum style...
If I get my beast back together should I try to live with my cone shaped end of that shaft? If a correct size pin spins the cam shaft should I stick with that?
Thank you for your knowledge and responses. I have a small glimmer of hope back.
I'll post again once I try that. Pressing those nips in seems like too good to be true...
Seriously though, is there an unadulterated view of all posts? I see the archives at certain dates... do I have to wait till you post a collection before I can review everything? Also can you PM on here? I'm so obviously new to this forum style...
If I get my beast back together should I try to live with my cone shaped end of that shaft? If a correct size pin spins the cam shaft should I stick with that?
Thank you for your knowledge and responses. I have a small glimmer of hope back.
kide
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- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Catching up.......(looks like you've got Jared covered, Charlie)
1: It's Marvel Mystery Oil, not Magic Mystery Oil
2: Exhaust valve stems expand in length as they warm up (actually so do intakes). An engine that quits after totally warming up can have the other named illnesses (coil, condenser, plugged gas cap, crap in the float bowl, etc. etc.), but it could also be the valve recessing into the head, reducing the lifter to stem clearance to zero or less, holding the valve open. Runs when cold, no compression when hot.. BTDT, got the shirt (now a grease rag). I always try to determine if the event is random or fairly well timed. Random can be crap in the carb bowl, a cracked coil or something loose. Repeatable, timewise, is usually something failing due to heat or a restriction in fuel flow, like a plugged fuel filter, or plugged vent hole in the gas cap.
1: It's Marvel Mystery Oil, not Magic Mystery Oil
2: Exhaust valve stems expand in length as they warm up (actually so do intakes). An engine that quits after totally warming up can have the other named illnesses (coil, condenser, plugged gas cap, crap in the float bowl, etc. etc.), but it could also be the valve recessing into the head, reducing the lifter to stem clearance to zero or less, holding the valve open. Runs when cold, no compression when hot.. BTDT, got the shirt (now a grease rag). I always try to determine if the event is random or fairly well timed. Random can be crap in the carb bowl, a cracked coil or something loose. Repeatable, timewise, is usually something failing due to heat or a restriction in fuel flow, like a plugged fuel filter, or plugged vent hole in the gas cap.
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hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
<font size="+2">HI-HO Silver.... </font> er, Hi-Ho Yellar'n White, Hydro Harry rides again!!!!!!
Welcome Jared. Sorry I'm late to the party. Charlie is giving you the best advice. You need to get your cub inside someplace - but to do that you have to be able to roll it. When those 2 buttons are pushed down it allows the hydro pump to spin free and the tranny to rotate - assuming it's not froze up. And I have an underlying suspicion your problem is moisture in the rearend fluid that did freeze up and stopped your pump from rotating.
You will likely have to come up with some kind of skid that you can slide your unit into a shed, hopefully with some kind of heat. Maybe you can drag your unit onto a sheet of plywood and then somehow drag the whole dang thing into a shed.
My guess on your problem is that an abundance of moisture built up in your tranny. This occured as a result of the fluid never being changed OR it could have occured if someone used tranny fluid not suitable.
The moisture likely froze up so the hydro pump couldn't rotate, which resulted in the roll pin snapping where it's coupled to the driveshaft. For some reason the coupling twisted/rotated and when you ran the engine the coupling sheered off the end of your hydro pump input shaft - to what you see in that pic where the shaft is pointed, and it's supposed to look like what you see in Charlie's pic.
Once you get your cub inside someplace where the temp is above freezing for several hours you can remove the rearend cover very slowly (following instructions on changing the fluid in the FAQs). You need to get a look at the fluid to see if it's half water.
Buying new parts isn't a real option so you'll likely need to look for a used complete rearend with the hydro pump intact. There was a guy in Salem, OR that used to have alot of used units and could probably match up one for you. I would think shipping costs would make it prohibitive to get a unit from the midwest or other places. There may be a guy not far from me that would have one as well but you're talking about 400 miles from your location.
Overall you'll need to plan to take this one step at a time to figure out the problem and resolution. You have to get your unit inside someplace first.
I hate to have to say this but I doubt you'll be throwing snow this winter with your unit - unless you're independently wealthy, don't work a regular job and have plenty of free time to search for parts. You did mention a local Cub Cadet dealer - is there any chance he might have a resting place for old IH Cub Cadets of a similar vintage? Finding a model from the same series as yours (109, 129, 149 or 169) would be ideal but most any older IH Cub Cadet Hydrostatic drive built earlier than yours could likely be made to work. (You need an external brake or disc brake rearend setup the same as you have. Some of the earlier hydro units used an internal wet brake - which you could make work but would add a lot of work and I wouldn't recommend using).
Welcome Jared. Sorry I'm late to the party. Charlie is giving you the best advice. You need to get your cub inside someplace - but to do that you have to be able to roll it. When those 2 buttons are pushed down it allows the hydro pump to spin free and the tranny to rotate - assuming it's not froze up. And I have an underlying suspicion your problem is moisture in the rearend fluid that did freeze up and stopped your pump from rotating.
You will likely have to come up with some kind of skid that you can slide your unit into a shed, hopefully with some kind of heat. Maybe you can drag your unit onto a sheet of plywood and then somehow drag the whole dang thing into a shed.
My guess on your problem is that an abundance of moisture built up in your tranny. This occured as a result of the fluid never being changed OR it could have occured if someone used tranny fluid not suitable.
The moisture likely froze up so the hydro pump couldn't rotate, which resulted in the roll pin snapping where it's coupled to the driveshaft. For some reason the coupling twisted/rotated and when you ran the engine the coupling sheered off the end of your hydro pump input shaft - to what you see in that pic where the shaft is pointed, and it's supposed to look like what you see in Charlie's pic.
Once you get your cub inside someplace where the temp is above freezing for several hours you can remove the rearend cover very slowly (following instructions on changing the fluid in the FAQs). You need to get a look at the fluid to see if it's half water.
Buying new parts isn't a real option so you'll likely need to look for a used complete rearend with the hydro pump intact. There was a guy in Salem, OR that used to have alot of used units and could probably match up one for you. I would think shipping costs would make it prohibitive to get a unit from the midwest or other places. There may be a guy not far from me that would have one as well but you're talking about 400 miles from your location.
Overall you'll need to plan to take this one step at a time to figure out the problem and resolution. You have to get your unit inside someplace first.
I hate to have to say this but I doubt you'll be throwing snow this winter with your unit - unless you're independently wealthy, don't work a regular job and have plenty of free time to search for parts. You did mention a local Cub Cadet dealer - is there any chance he might have a resting place for old IH Cub Cadets of a similar vintage? Finding a model from the same series as yours (109, 129, 149 or 169) would be ideal but most any older IH Cub Cadet Hydrostatic drive built earlier than yours could likely be made to work. (You need an external brake or disc brake rearend setup the same as you have. Some of the earlier hydro units used an internal wet brake - which you could make work but would add a lot of work and I wouldn't recommend using).
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Kenny - yup (although it's patent pending). You coined the term and the coating is still in use to this day, although on bolts, nuts, washers, shafts, most any small fastener or connector part/item.
Jared M. welcome. Here's my .02 worth on your situation. See if that worn out input shaft will turn, If so get a new filter from a local auto parts store. get 1/4in bolt, nut and washer and bolt the drive shaft back on. Leave the tunnel cover off, fill the trans with some cheap atf. fire up the engine, run it at mid throttle and see if you can get your tractor indoors. You may want to drop the snow thrower so there is less load and the driveshaft. Your best bet is used trans. Harry right there is a guy in salam or. and also a guy in yelm wa.
Had a couple of old metal wheels with bronze bushings.
Got some shoulder bolts from McMaster Carr.
Drilled some old skid shoes.
Made some spacer and now have this.
If we ever get any snow I will report how it works.
Got some shoulder bolts from McMaster Carr.
Drilled some old skid shoes.
Made some spacer and now have this.
If we ever get any snow I will report how it works.
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hydroharry
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- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Jared - that's a great suggestion from Doug B. Maybe your problem isn't as extreme as I thought. Maybe the roll pin connecting the coupler to the pump input shaft, broke and was the start of your problem. When it broke it may have allowed the coupler to shift of out position and when spinning it wore the pump input shaft down. You might just need a replacement hydro pump with a good shaft (but need to make sure it also has a good trunion or you can repair it).
Doug A - nice thought on the wheels for the thrower. Your last pic doesn't show the bolts holding the old skids to the thrower but assuming they allow you to adjust the wheel up/down so it's really close to the surface.
Doug A - nice thought on the wheels for the thrower. Your last pic doesn't show the bolts holding the old skids to the thrower but assuming they allow you to adjust the wheel up/down so it's really close to the surface.
Harry- Yes they can be adjusted with the slots on the skids. I have it set 1/8" above the surface.
