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Archive through December 17, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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hydroharry

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Joined
Jul 22, 2007
Messages
4,468
displayname
Harry Bursell
Daniel G - ya know, I think you're onto something. I believe the gasoline molecules shrink in colder temps and it's harder to get them to ignite. Dennis will probably chime in to more accurately describe what may be happening - but sounds pretty normal to me.
 
Daniel Glinski there are several things that could be causing your poor starting. I'd definitely recommend that magnetic heater! Attached it under the Hydro rear end, and power it via a very good timer and set it 2-3 hours before you wake up, or plan to plow, and there will be a considerable difference.

The harder the battery strains to turn over your motor and trans the lower the voltage point is. Lower voltage means a weaker spark, combine this with the motor turning over slower and its a recipe for not wanting to start.

Gas of course is never as good as it once was. Your list does not include cleaning the carb - another thing to check.

Just some ideas of the top of my head.
 
Daniel G - well Vincent provides some good information, but you indicated it's not turning over slower, just seems to be starting slower. I believe that's pretty common in colder temps, especially if it's been sitting. I wouldn't worry about it for now. I don't think I'd recommend tearing into the carb in an unheated garage this time of year if you really don't have to. One thing I do recommend in colder temps like you mentioned, is starting your engine every few days and letting it run for about 20 minutes. I think this does alot for keeping the fuel system fresh all the way thru the carb, keeps the battery pretty fresh and up to load. I could be all wrong on this but it worked for me in my unheated garage.
 
Ok so heres another question. Due to my extra expenses this year driving back an froth to Great Lakes Navy base which is 5.5 hrs one way to see a doctor I havent had the money to replace my rear tires like I wanted to before winter.

So hear is the question, I have seen some say they add fluid to their tires for extra weight,can you still add the fluid if you added tubes in the rear tires ? If so,what kind do I want to add ? If I get my travel check like they have said for 3 months now I will have the money to go buy new tires on the rear and I think I will buy either ags or try a ATV tire maybe.

Ok thoughts ? I know many of you have tried so many ways I have to ask before I spend my money these days.
 
Daniel G.-

50 CCAs????? If that's the case you'll need about 300 more.
 
Amy - I never added fluid to tires but think you could especially with the tubes. Others on here will have to provide those details. I will say I still think turf tires with chains and weights are the best overall. If you decide to get some ags or ATV make sure you consider the cost of new chains as part of your formula.
 
You do have a good point Harry about having to get new chains. I have an old set I used on an ole truck I used to have that I would prolly cut down. They havent been used for years and I dont really need them anymore.

I may end up going with turf,I was thinking if I went with AG I wouldnt need chains since I have mostly cement to clear. But thinking about it im afraid I will still need chains to keep from spinning...
 
Amy - if you put tubes in your current tires why do you think you need new ones? If it's just because you have alot of cracks or checking, I wouldn't worry about that. Now if you have some "splits" that's a different story. To be honest with ya, if ya really think you need'em, I'd be on the look out for some good used ones. I don't remember now if you had 6x12 or the 23x8.5x12's. Should be alot of the 23's and used might even come with wheels. 6x12 are a bit harder to find.
 
Evening all and good luck Amy with your tire issue. Wanted to check and see if anyone has heard of or knows a guy in Michigan that reupholsters the 122,123 white fiberglass seats. Especially curious how he deals with the pan insofar as painting it, etc. Thanks and hope everyone is doing well.
 
Good evening all,
My brother and I are trying to install a haban 54in blade on his 982. The question is dose anyone have pictures of a set up like this? especially where the bottom arms mount on the tractor? Also there a cable coming off the angle latch pin that has a s hook on the end. What dose that hook to? Thanks Jim
 
My tractor seems to do a fairly good job sparking it up, during the cold spell we have had here, and for the time I have had the tractor itself. Just set the clutch pedal, 1/4 engine throttle-full choke, no problem. Run choke 1/2 until warmer, set open and let warm up. I have to wonder just how much a oil pan heater would really work on a splash-lube air cooled internal combustion single cylinder Kohler K engine. But can see practical use on hydro drive model in extreme cold weather temperature, and with pressure lubed engines. I also seem to think I would rather have a gas engine for cold weather use over a diesel engine due to diesel fuel gumming up. I have seen new Ford diesel trucks have this problem in cold weather.

Have been keeping quite busy with the IH 42" dozed blade! Going to warm up to 50* something, and be back down to reality by Christmas. Never the less, don't mind the seat time on a IH Cub Cadet, the best there is!
 
Jim, the manual for the Haban 54" blade is in the manuals section of the forum. Here's a link to the manual

The cable goes back to the angle release lever linkage.

265643.jpg


265644.jpg


UNDER EDIT: The rear of the blade subframe mounts to two brackets that bolt to the tractor. If the blade was bought from someone separate from the tractor, chances are that the brackets are on the tractor that the blade was originally with...
 
I am sure some of you might frown with this but my grandpa who was a great mechanic when he was alive always told me to use 10W40 in the winter instead of 30W like the summer. Ive done that for many years now an have yet to ever have a problem with cold starts.

As far as my tires I think I just got lucky I got a $350 travel check today after all. Now to decide which tread to buy turf or Ags ....
 
Thanks Kraig. And your right we are missing the mount that go on the tractor at the very back of the frame. Dosen't look they will be hard to make though.
 
Amy J. Kleyla

A few years ago I bought a Zero turn mower to mow a lawn with a very steep grade and found the thing with new turf tires would slid down the hill. so I broke down the bead of the tire on one side and poured in four gallons of winter washer fluid . Cheap weight and I also added a good squirt of Dawn dish washing soap to keep the rims from rusting so fast. One thing to think about with older turf or any tire they will have gotten hard from age and well not good for traction. My 149 using my blade on my paved drive with turf tires and chains made a real mess with a lot of marks that at the time I did not know they were making .So if you don`t mind seeing the scratch marks turf and chains are the best way to go ; But new atv type with washer fluid for weight I bet would be close to turf and chains. My ATV plows snow here with a 54" blade mostly in two wheel drive.One day I will test this out with ATV tires on a Cub loaded and report back.My plan for the Zero turn this winter is to drain and reuse the washer fluid from the turf tires and make a bracket so I can add sold weights when I need them.Turning the zero turn now can rip up the sod real easy and I only need the weight for the steep grades.
 
Amy - I'm still wondering why you're so set on getting some new tires? The pic in your profile can't be to old, and it looks to me like you have 23x8.5x12's on your 104 (and I also see your CW36 before it was re-assembled). Your rear tires are pretty close to the gauge wheels on your mowing deck. If you get new tires you might have an issue. The tire sizes for Garden Tractors are not Federally regulated like car/truck tires (the actual dimensions can be all over the place). Especially Goodyears - I had several different pair marked 23 tall and they only measured 21 1/2, but they were usually also wider than the 8.5 and 10.5 markings. There is no way to know until you mount the tires on wheels.
 
Tires/
I would be willing to bet that if you were to buy a newer tire that is a 8.50, 10.50 or 12 the size would be smaller. <u>NOBODY</u> gives you more than they have to these days.
 
Amy, here's my 2cents on tires.

I agree with Harry, the tires in your profile pic look great. Even if they are cracked, the amount of tread is great.

If I had $350 of tire money burning a hole in my pocket. I'd try to find a good set of Ag's and tri-ribs for the front. Firestone 23's if you can afford them.

ME Miller has got brand new ones for $120 each and Carlisle for $90ea. Then find a set of tri ribs for the front and BAM! What a difference that will make. And you be set for another 30 years of cubbin'
 
Another 6 +" of snow this morning and it has turned to rain.I would much rather move the snow before it rains .
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