Archive through December 17, 2004

[sblunier]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4511603302&category=35557

This is just the first one I found on Ebay....specs are all listed including a pic.

 

[hsimon]

Just got done wrapping Christmas presents tonight with my daughter Marti and Man does she know what her Daddy wanted

she got me a new Brinly Box Blade

Gotta love it when I have some input in what she buys for me

Now how do I act excited on Christmas morning?????????????

(Message edited by hsimon on December 17, 2004)

 

[jmacdonald]

Does anyone know if IH offered a "snow blowing cab" for the mod 70/100.
Thanks,
jimmac

 

[hsell]

Hello guys,

I changed a drive belt on my original and got two of them ready for the snow we are supposed to get on Sunday and Monday... just waitin to get some good seat time... MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL

Howie

 

[kdunham]

Jim M.-Yeah,I'm offering one right now on the classifieds.....(boy,this won't be here long...

)

 

[thoffman]

Jim "M",
Yes they did. Maybe Kraig can post a picture of Mrs. Green pants.

 

[digger]

Just for you Tom,

 

[jmacdonald]

Thanks for the photo. Jugding by that not only can she snow blow the drive way, but I'll bet she melts all the ice too!
jimmac

 

[dkamp]

Careful in your choice of 'words', Jim... it's a 'thrower', and people get ideas when you use that other word. I'll just take it with a grain of SALT...

 

[digger]

Jim M.
FAQ question #25 comes to mind, grin

And for goodness sake! Lets not do the difference between a front blade/plow and a rear plow!

 

[thoffman]

Don't want to reopen the G.O.D. (Great Oil Debate), but what do you guys think about using Mobil #1 10W-30 in smokers?? Jim/Bryan "D" what to you guys use?

 

[joe]

Tom Hoffman,
Do you remember the Red Windbreaker you sold me in Jan 2000? Here it is with a slight modification... I added heat. Took the idea from a "heathouser" we used on our cabless Farmalls. It works even in low temps with no exhaust smell.
Joe

 

[thoffman]

YES, I DO!! Kinda' wish I had it now. It's snowing here as we speek.

Never mind on the GOD question, I got out TFM. It's spelled out NO-SYN OIL!

 

[klorenz]

My son and I had the 70&100 out this afternoon. Decided to take a couple of pictures of them. The 70 was bought new by my wife's uncle. The 100 was put together this year from parts left over from several "beater" tractors that I parted out. The 100 is the one with the fenders. The 100 gets to do the grunt work such as garden plowing and hopefully some snow blading. Also have a 123 that my 10 year old son has laid claim to.

 

[bmcmeen]

Kirk L -

Sorry, had to edit your post and stick a RETURN between your pics. The folks that don't have a lot of monitor real estate complain when the pics go too wide...

 

[zfriedman]

OK, update time.

I got a new (used) wiring harness...and it still don't work. At least now I don't have to check all around to make sure that reason I'm gettin 0 volts is because of some frayed or completely separated wire. Install went along fine, took a few hours, and while I was doing it I filed/sanded all the contacts on the harness itself and on the tractor.

Terry Busch posted a schematic a while back (on December 4). In my reply, I said, amoung a great number of other things, that I couldn't give results due to the destroyed harness. When I did get results I found that the S/G no longer worked and the Solenoid buzzes. Same thing now, except I got data all around (sorry bout color, e-mail me if you want a better copy).

<center><table border=1><tr><td>

zak schematic 2.bmp (48.1 k)</td></tr></table></center>


The checklist provided indicated the key switch as a problem, so I checked that out. I jumpered the the B and S wires (black lables, IE the green and orange wires) together, got a spark, but still got 5.5 V. I also tried every thing out with the Safety Switch (Orange and Black & Orange wires) jumpered. I'm guessing its the solenoid, but I don't wanna jump up and blow cash without some outside input who isn't trying to sell me something.

The S/G still don't do a thing, even with the battery hooked straight to it. Lots available on eBay, but I rather fix the one I have (if I don't have to spend forever doing it).

Being a student it seems weird to say that I'm not happy about the snow coming to possibly cancel school, I won't be able to clear it. Lost joy<lost profits. Go figure.

Oh, and a thumbs down on Mrs. Green Pants.

 

[zfriedman]

Ok, that didn't work, and I didn't mean to change the size of the font. Try #2:

 

[bmcmeen]

Zach -

Had you been a student in the 60's, your thumb (and perhaps other things) would've been up.

It's all about the context...

As far as repairing your S/G, would you try to repair your car/truck's own alternator, too?

Most will tell you it's not worth the hassle of fixing much more than the brushes in a S/G. There's a reason why alternator repair shops exist. Plus, you'd likely end up with a longer lasting S/G because the cheap rear bushing and front bearing will be replaced with higher quality bearings.

That said, I'm sure Mr. Kamp has a way of farting on the poles and belching on the rotor that will fix even the most stubborn of S/G's

 

[till]

HEy, Hey watch what you say about my wife......

I like the idea about the heater duct. I would only use that with an open cab. I have seen that setup on a full hard cab. It was a green one too.

 

[jgeorg]

Zach, You still have a problem there. Your voltage should never drop to 5.5 volts. If that what the 5.5 S means.
1: Your battery isn't charged (The Cubs I mean)
2: You still have a bad connection somewhere between the battery and starter relay. Voltage drop somewhere when you hit the key. There are 4 connections that could do this.
3: Something is shorted when you turn the key, pulling down the voltage.

John

(Message edited by jgeorg on December 18, 2004)