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Archive through December 09, 2017

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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pvanbenschoten

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Dec 13, 2004
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Paul Van Benschoten
Wheel weights, it is that time of year, maybe a day or two too late!

I have a 127 with the external brakes and I have 23x8x12 tires.

Can I put a weight on the INSIDE of the rim? I have one on the outside and could add another but I would like to put it inside.

My driveway was paved this year so I do not want to use chains. I figure more weight would help.

Normally, I would just go and try it, but I am scheduled for shoulder surgery after the New Year and I don't want to do any unnecessary lifting.
 
Paul B.
The only way to add weights on the inside without the weights hitting the brake calipers would be to add wheel spacers.
I'm not sure how far they would have to go. But you could one of two ways on the spacers.
2 1/2" spacer
318546.jpg

1/2" spacer
318547.jpg
 
Hydro, Denny, when I said I had been tripped up a few times by the PTO rod I meant it with regards to it being routed through the belt, not that the grill must be removed. Years ago, the first time the S/G belt had broken and thinking it would be a quick fix to install the spare I had on hand I realized the PTO rod had to be routed through the belt. In this instance seeing as I had to loosen the S/G anyway, I did as Denny outlined in his post. Another more recent time when the S/G belt broke I didn't have a new spare but had a parts 105 with a belt. I then rediscovered the PTO rod routed through the belt. I had to use Denny's method to get the belt off of the 105 parts tractor and again to get it onto the 125. Main point being that the PTO engagement rod can trip up an otherwise easy task.
 
Hello friends
I have a question. My question is on a 1650 where in the world does the spring go for the brake pedal return? I tried to drive without it, not fun. Thanks for the help
Ed
 
Ed, CLICK HERE then scroll way down (about 2/3 of the way) until you find Richard Christensen's post with explanations and photos of the two style brake return springs.
 
I really appreciate all the help. Whenever I need help you guys are very helpful. Some of you really go out of your way to help. Thank you friends
 
This one should be easy. Is it okay to use fogging oil in my cub cadet for the winter? It works fine in the boat. What do you guys think?
 
Joe Z.
There's really no point in Kohler.
thumbsup.gif

But if it makes you feel better, go ahead.

The one thing that comes to mind by fogging it would be, it might loosen carbon buildup, and when you fire it up in the spring, that flying carbon could go places and do things you might not like, But what do I know, never done it or heard of it being done.
1a_scratchhead.gif
 
Joe Z, fogging is done on 2-stroke engines. I believe it's because the cylinder may be exposed to the atmosphere depending on where the piston came to rest when it was shut down. Others out there would know better......this is what I was told.

David
 
Even a 4 stroke has valves open when the motor is shut off. Sitting in a cold, moist area could rust the cylinders. I have never worried about it even with my cubs sitting in a cold shed all winter. To each their own.
 
I guess it’s a slightly tougher question than I thought. The boat has a 350 in it and fogging is recommended to lube and displace moisture. I think the manual says to pull the plug and pour some light machine oil into the cylinder. Fogging oil is a little easier to use. I’ll just do it unless someone feels that it might cause harm.
 
Well it's home, LOL
318549.jpg

I had to separate the 2 though. The 1450 wasn't happy settin next to that nasty CCC machine!
318550.jpg
 
Charile - you got me. I didn't realize the old IH Hy-Tran cans were the old paper style.

Now - to all you guys involved in the discussion about the PTO rod installation. It has hung me up before as Kraig mentioned, but I don't ever recall removing the grill housing to get it installed. My recollection is really as Dennis stated.

I guess there are couple ways to skin the cat, but it don't involve removing the gill housing.

Kraig - can't you come up with at least a few pics?

Ooh, and in closing - Charlie is right again. Frank's been living in an oil fog and didn't know it
biggrin.gif
 
As for the oil fogging. I can see why it is recommended with a boat. Lots of moisture and fogging with oil will do NOTHING to hurt it.

As for the PTO rod, man I didn't realize I opened such a can of worms. To ease all the minds, it is all together now. Remember, I had the front end off, so putting the belt on BEFORE I assembled the PTO rod was a no brainer.

318565.jpg


I got the rims painted up yesterday so I was able to put the new tires on it this morning and get them on the tractor. Now I need new rear tires, as they are dry rotted beyond use. I still have one can of paint left so I might try to paint them also. It was VERY difficult to paint the rims and not have the paint run if you tried too hard to get coverage within the hub area and have all those ridges. Especially the front sides being so deep. They are surely not award winning, but look nice from 5 ft away.

They looked more "yellow" by themselves, but on the tractor outside, they more closely resemble the hood paint.

I tried to start it today. Ain't happening. Even with a car battery hooked to it with my BIG charger it would just barely roll it over, chug, chug, chug. I know these typically don't spin real fast in the cold but this would never start. I need to get a new battery for it, I was just using jumper cables to the battery wires. Likely not a good way to get full current, so I will get a battery for it.

I also had an extra wire that I couldn't figure out what it was for. Luckily I took some pictures before teardown and I was able to determine it was the 12v to the coil coming from the harness at the s/g.
 
Digger-if your having and issue with your 1450 and your 1712 getting along send that 1712 my way I’ll give it a good home LOL that’s a good lookin rig
 

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