Archive through April 29, 2011

[jbaker]

Does anyone have a opinion on running with or with-out the "bellypan" on the 1x9 series?

the 1x9 I am turning into a grass cutter does not have one.

 

[aschumacher]

Barry, way down the bottom of his parts listings is a line that says (in blue) CONTACT US. If you clicka on da blu words it sez [email protected]
Now go and order abunch of stuff , really neat things there.

 

[rklein]

Jeff, What's a belly pan?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jeff, please note that Lewis P. has one for sale in the classifieds. He has it listed as a grass shield...

 

[dfrisk]

JEFF - Neither my old 129 or my 982 had a belly pan when I got them. I made pans for both. In dry conditions they keep a LOT of dust & debris from getting sucked into the cooling blower & fins.

I actually used two layers of expanded alum. mesh to make the one for the 982. It will plug up solid with dandelion fuzz & grass clippings when it's dry.

 

[tpennell]

My post about my "o" drawing 1-3 amps the other day was just a "here is your sign" moment on my part. Forgot to swap leads around on my DMM. Oh well things happen, thanks all for your inputs anyway!!

 

[jmgiles]

Has anyone ever fabricated a deck out of stainless steel? I'm thinking about under taking the project for a 68 124 42" deck.

 

[dfrisk]

JOHN - I remember that topic being discussed here before. Problem with "Fabricating" a SS deck would be all the welding required which would lead to areas of decreased corrosion resistance.

If "Someone", MTD or ??? would offer an upgraded 44 or 50 inch deck shell over the mild steel version made off the same stamping/drawing dies it might be feasable and maybe worthwhile.

Not sure where the nickel & moly surcharge situation is with stainless right now but depending on which grade of stainless you chose, the cost would be four or MORE times the cost of carbon steel. Not sure it would pay in the long run.

 

[dschmude]

I am a little confused about how to determine the year of a Cub by it's serial number. I found a website that states that the four numbers after the U in the serial number tells you the date of manufacture. However, I know that one of my tractors was not made June 3, 1948.

I believe that those numbers are meant to be cross referenced to this chart - https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/IH%20LOUISVILLE%20WORKS%20SN.htm

For instance - my Cub 1650 carries a serial number of 2050670U634870*. Using the linked to chart would date this tractor as Sept. 1978. That seems realistic from the appearance of the tractor.

I also have a Cub 128 who's serial number is 2050045U316653*. According to the chart, assuming I am using it right, this tractor was made December 1971.

Can you guys confirm that I am doing this right? Or if I'm not, can you assist me in determining the age of these two tractors and tell me how you did it? Thanks a million !! ...... Dave

 

[proessler]

David, I get: 128 = Nov. '69, 1650 =Sept. '78 according to the chart.

 

[dschmude]

I'm sorry.... the 128's serial number should be U416653* And that would be Dec. 1971. But, you have confirmed that I'm using the chart right. Thanks !!

 

[kmcconaughey]

That 128 S/N can't be correct.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Whew, that looks better.

 

[dschmude]

Okay..... one last question and then I'm done for a while. I used to have a Cub that we ended up parting out that had a big time problem with exhaust valves sticking. According to some locals the answer to prevent this from happening is to use low ash oil. I have used it in a couple of tractors since then and haven't had the exhaust valve sticking problem. I was reading on here and saw where you guys recommend using Marvel Mystery Oil as a gasoline additive. Now, I'm doing some more looking and, to me anyway, it appears that ALL non-detergent motor oils are now low ash. Is that the case? Which do you think is the better preventive maintenance - using the MMO or the low ash oil? Or both? Thanks again.... Dave

 

[dfrisk]

DAVID - Low ash oil is not non-detergent oil. I used non-detergent oil in my last K321 I rebuilt for a short period of time, maybe five hours of operation, then switched to a strong detergent oil, Shell Rotella T 15W-40.

Compared to the oils used back in the 1960's when IH created and marketed their low ash oil most oils meet that criteria today.

But the black hard carbon deposits on the exh valve stem that cause the valve to stick will be stopped and maybe eliminated by using C/IH Low Ash oil according to an article I read in Red Power Magazine about 3-4 months ago.

I've never really seen any improvement in any way performance is measured when I used MMO.

 

[kharvey]

Gary O on the coupler wear I had that on my 128 and I pulled out the input shaft and welded the hole closed and redrilled it. Then I bought a new coupling, its a lot heavier than the one that came from the factory.

 

[jbaker]

David S use both if its cost effective for you, For me its MMO a certain name brand.

But before we wander off topic to the sandbox for another round of the great oil debate,,,
Kohlers in IH Cub Cadets like low ash oil and MMO....and of course Charlies snake oil.

 

[tbenak]

I have a question for all you cub cadet lovers. I just met a really nice 80 year old gentleman that has a cub original. #48053. There is a problem with the steering gear box....lots of play. My question is, Is the steering column on an original different than later models? Can it be rebuilt? Guess I had two questions. I would really like to help this gentleman out. Suggestions welcome.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Thomas, the Original uses a different steering column than the rest of the Cub Cadets. It is rebuildable. Some of the forum sponsors sell rebuild parts.

 

[tbenak]

Kraig,
Thanks for the quick response. That is exactly what I was looking for.