Archive through April 21, 2004

[digger]

Wayne P,
Richard C. gave us the dimensions.

(Message edited by cProctor on April 21, 2004)

 

[wcompton]

Nate-
The stock rods I've taken apart have lock washers for sure, don't remember if they had flat washers but I wouldn't think it would be necessary. When I spec flat washers it's usually only because the fastener's working through something with a slot. Some of the nicer stuff I've worked with (Sulzer Engines) don't use split lock washers at all, they use belville washers.

 

[wpritts]

Digger, Thank you so much! Those are the ones I remember! Thank you, Thank you!!!
Oh, and my 1650 thanks you too!

 

[dkamp]

Art- D'ya need a new column housing? I've got one here that I extracted the guts out of already- if you want it, I'll bring it to WFM...

Jonathan- I've got an upper stub from both an automotive steering shaft, and an industrial steering shaft. If you haven't come up with a way to put an automotive wheel on a C_C, I can do it for 'ya... just by making a custom steering shaft.

 

[cubconnection]

Kent S.

I just realizd that the new bracket that you took for the hydrulic lift was one for a electric lift. I have the right one here for the electric, you can get when you get the tail gate for the #4 cart.

 

[sblunier]

Richard and Dave Kirk get the credit for the motor mount modifications.......all I have done is made a few to their specs, it works well!!!!

 

[aaytay]

Dave-
Yea, I'd take it off your hands, but the minute you give it to me you'll figure out that you needed it....

 

[kweaver]

Art -- aint that the truth ! I had a big vacum pump here for 4 years and let a guy have it ... now I find out I could have used it to degas the resin I use making patterns. I even keep the ol lady thinking that I might need her someday but I sure didn't keep that pump.

 

[mfisher]

I know the lighter thing has been covered, but here's a page out of the 1969 parts and accessories catalog.

 

[roundy fendered cubs rule!]

Scott,
OK. Just let me know when I can come down to get it.

 

[dcasey]

Good Morning, Group-- Just wanted to let you all know I now have a website for reproduction parts up & running. Hoping to have a couple of projects for new parts completed soon!

Check back often, to see what's new!


B&B-- I intend to purchase a paid membership as soon as I can. (Hopefully, you will allow this post here for now!)


Thanks,
Dan Casey

 

[kdunham]

Wow! Bryan,are ya' up yet?

 

[dcasey]

Art/Kraig--I checked my 70(identified by pics of the original dash decal & style of frame), the narrow slot in question does not exist. However, there is a larger slot to the left of the round hole thru the frame. Mine also, doesn't have the switch sticking out of the pedistal. Does that mean it didn't have lights?
Also, the sheetmetal from the K161S that supposedly came out of that tractor, the ser. # is A000578. Does this sound hokey?

 

[bmcmeen]

I see that some folks live by "it's easier to beg forgiveness than ask permission."

Sorry, rules are rules.

That's some kinda chutzpah, though...

 

[dkamp]

Art- I'm not worried about needing it- I traded my nicely-rebuilt steering box for this one... it's wormshaft was REALLY galled-up bad, so I pulled out the shaft, lopped-off the worm, and used the upper half of the shaft for my hydraulic steering column... SO...

It's just an empty housing with YOUR name on it. When you see Nick and I thump by at WFM, flag me down and introduce yourself, and I'll fetch the column... if you don't see me, look for my bright-red Jeep Cherokee (liscense plate KW0D) towing a trailer with what... two wide-frames and two 100's...

 

[rnajecki]

I'm working on my 149 front PTO clutch (mechanical - without brake). The Service Manual specifies that the "bearing must be flush with end of crankshaft". When I removed the pulley/clutch assembly I noticed the bearing was proud (or protruding) 1/16" from the crankshaft. I loosened the locking collar, but can't budge the bearing in or out. The bearing is in fine shape, so I don't want to mess with it if I don't have to. The clutch was last serviced in 1999 by the dealer who replaced the bearing, when rebuilding the engine. Two questions: (1) Is this 1/16" really critical? If I must get the bearing flush I presume I first need to remove it so I can clean up the crankshaft so the bearing will slide on smoothly. (2) What tool or method works best to remove the bearing - a gear puller?

Thanks,
Roy

 

[digger]

Bryan,
I told him but he's young and Don't listen! LOL

 

[dcasey]

Sorry, Brian-- Just to clarify; No, I don't live by that ideology, however, sometimes misjudgement comes into play.

I thought I did my homework-- keyword search showed at least one post in the past couple of mos. of someone telling about their 'business' website...I thought it was acceptable since no actual product-advertising occurred.

Apologies,
Dan Casey

 

[dgallagher]

Roy N : I don't think the 1/16 will make much difference. The ones that I have pulled off have been anywhere from flush to 1/8th out beyond the end of the crank. However when I put them back, i do put them flush. A puller will get it off, BUT will probably destroy the bearing and they are pricey. If it is good, I would leave it.

 

[aaytay]

Dan Casey-
I don't think any of us have seen that extra slot as it's not normally present. The one you're referring to is for the creeper gear-box, but this one's a new one...at least for me, that's why I asked..

Dave-
Sounds like a plan, thanks!