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Archive through April 08, 2017

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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ekincaid

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Joined
Nov 6, 2016
Messages
741
displayname
Ethan Kincaid
Is there anyone out there making reproduction analog "clock" style hour meters out there Iron Patriot has one but to say its shot is an understatement.i like the look
 
VDO is the only one I know of that's close to OEM.
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Thanks digger for that info,ok gang exciting news the second motor is a go pistons good and free valves moves the way there supposed to cylinder wall is good and clean in going to have the motor guru stop by tomorrow to give his yeah or neigh.Harry-I have more cylinder shots and the shot of the chip in the bad motor I'll get those on he way to you in a bit.
 
Yup, Charlie's got it....2150 red and 935 white.....or for the older ones 483 yellow.....if you know the difference, you deserve to find something to complain about......
 
But Charlie, that one is not going to start over every 600 hours!
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Just every 100,000 hours.......let's see a K-series do that!!!

Some KT Series I motors had a hard time making it past 600!!!!
 
Hello all, I need a little help. I have a 126 and it is having issues with running. I have cleaned the carb and it runs for several minutes but will not continue to run. I checked the flow from the bowl and it has a good flow, I took the carb apart and cleaned with B12 and it runs for several minutes and then stops but I can keep it running by choking it. I have not put a carb kit in it yet but I am inclined to do so. Am I on the right track? Also, while it was running I tried to shift gears as I put a new clutch in it and it would not shift - I am not experienced with adjusting the clutch. Could ya'll give some advice on the two issues - help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
Rodney K.
Sounds to me like you really need to really clean the carb. I'm bettin that your needle/seat and or float are sticking and it's running out of gas.
One way to check is to remove the fuel bowl with the carb still on the tractor and see if the float is working up and down really easy, or it's sticking.
I'd go for the carb kit either way.

Go to the manuals section and download the Service manual, which shows and tells you how to adjust the clutch.
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To chime in on the IH 901 paint, 7 or 8 years or so ago, I took a paint sample from a NOS, unopened, gallon can of IH 901 white and had it computer color matched at my local Dupont auto paint store (no longer in business)and they came up with a Nason Ful-CRYL II, Acrylic paint color, that was a match. The color was a 69 Ford color called "New Lime". Paint code is/was 4976 ID A QT. The color does have a faint green tinge to it. They could only mix it in the Nason paint line, and not in Dupont line. It has been 5 years since I bought any of it, so since Dupont is no longer Dupont, and Nason is/was a Dupont line, I don't know if it is still available.The paint was not only a computer match, but also a "eyeball match" when compared to unfaded paint areas of a 100 like the tire area of the wheels and inside of the hood. I have since found another NOS gallon can of 901, so I have enough 901 white to cover about anything I will ever need to paint.
 
Thanks for the warm welcome alls!

quick update: I struggled a few days thinking I should paint everything I had and do a pretty rebuild. This faded into 'just build the dern thing' and so I now have a rolling chassis. Front end and rear transaxle attached with wheels mounted. Tower and steering system was already attached, so I added new wire harness and laid it where i think it runs. Steering is very loose, 1/2 turn of wheel equals zero turn at wheels! I loosely mounted engine in place knowing I need to open access pates to check governor and whatever else. I should pull head and even see if I have a piston in place.

Ill post photos one I get some. Enjoy the weekend alls.
 
It never hurts to pop the head off, make sure it's flat, clean off any carbon build up, and throw a new gasket on it. I'm going to call it good and take the thrower off the 1250 today.
 
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Ok, I know I know. I meant to get some good shots on dad's 1450, but had some problems on that. Scott, thank you for getting the great pics you did! I appreciate it as well. My 1450 does not look anywhere near as nice as yours. Dad's isn't too bad. Some PO had repainted it, it's ok. I just popped the blade off for dad today. I'll get the deck on later this week.
I made some progress finally cleaning the backyard. 100 and #2 cart did much better than a wheelbarrow. Next weekend I get to haul all the brush over to my friend's house and toss on his burn pile. Then I'll get the 1200 set with deck for the year.
 

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Ethan, I'm glad one of your engines is usable. I didn't know QL series had balance gears. I'll have to check mine when I can then.
 
Earl F. Nice action picture of the 100 and #2 cart.

I worked on the 104 Saturday. I took the head off to replace the head gasket and I could see the rings throughout the full stroke.
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Thankfully Mike Beadle said that he has another engine that should work at a reasonable price. I'll pull this one and save it for future overhauling. I need to get that critter up ad running and delivered.
 

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Mowed with the IH782 for the first time in 2 years yesterday. Man it was fun. Mostly fun cause it now has Mag20 and power steering. It had been sitting cause my OT 2072 is usually on mowing duties. But it's getting its turn for upgrades...

I finally broke down and put a REAL #26 carb on the 782. After years of kicking it and oil thrown at it, it finally doesn't fill the crank case with gas when your done.

Its nice to have back up mowers when you need them. I also mowed with my 128 for the first time in 8 years! it has a hybrid mule drive so I can run a 44c on it. Man that Kohler 12 sounds so good...
 
On a 1200 the 3 pin drive plate has shattered, I was wondering if the Steps were about the same as replacing a clutch on a narrow frame? Move the engine forward or attacking the problem from the rag joint and driveshaft?
 
Cletus pull the engine out. It's way easier. I've had the engines out of my QL's several times for rag joints and clutches, etc.

Remove hood and grill casting
Disconnect all hose, cable and electric
Remove gas tank and firewall (what I call the black shield under tank) as one unit
Un bolt engine cradle rails at ISO mounts(can also remove engine bolts from rails if you prefer)
Slide engine forward and lift out with hoist or friends help.

I've done this a few times now on my 1200. I don't let people use my gear drives without complete trust in there abilities anymore.
 
So I was snooping around Craigslist yesterday afternoon and decided a little road trip was in order!
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Needless to say It has a new home now.
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