2185 cub cadet won't start

[jdudding]

I am working on a 2185 cub cadet for a guy and it won't start.I checked everything out that I know of and I am not getting 12V to the fuel shutoff solenoid.I got a wiring diagram and I checked for voltage at the engine connector and its showing 12V at the red wire going to the solenoid.Would anyone have any ideas what else to check?Thanks,Joey.

 

[kredlinger]

unhooked the red wire going to the sol & turned on key & had 12v at the connector but you hook it back upto sol & it doesnt click? I'd say bad sol. If it does click when you reconnect it, check the pto switch relay (lil black box up inside dash, usually has some elect tape on it from factory) or the brake pedal saftey switch (lil gray push button on underside of the brake pedal rockshaft)

 

[jdudding]

Kyle R. I can run a jumper wire from the battery to the fuel sol.and it will work and the tractor will start and run.I did notice the amp light stays on to but I don't know that is tied in with this problem.How do you check the relay it sounds like it is working.I havn't got to the brake switch yet but I did check the voltage after the engine connector and I have 12 volts there but not to the sol.The wiring diagran shows diodes in the wires do you think those might be bad?Thank You for the help,Joey.

 

[kredlinger]

well if the engine cranks over, then that brake switch is operating normally, if it wasnt the enigne wouldnt crank at all. sol clicks with power jumpered to it then it's ok. That relay is hooked into the pto switch, shouldnt crank over if pto switch pulled out so it might be operating normally.
Those lil diodes are part of the coil shut off or grounding, when ign is shut off, it grounds out the coils & cuts out spark. That ignition switch might not be making contact internally.
I have a 2185 sitting in the back storage area, I'll have to sneak a peak at it this weekend to freshen my memory on how the thing is wired.

 

[jdudding]

Kyle R. my buddy had a key switch and I got it and tried it and it didn't work.We also made up two wires with diodes in them and just tried that and the tractor started and run so would that be what I need to fix the fuel sol.?The amp light still was on and I checked the voltage @ the battery and it was 12.3 volts.I then checked the voltage @ the regulator and it was also 12.3 volts.Then I checked the voltage coming from the stator and it was 42 volts so I would think it is a bad regulator.I just don't get the fuel sol. and not charging would be related but 2 different troubles.Thanks,Joey.

 

[jdudding]

I found out what was wrong with the 2185 cub the guy put a new battry in it before he brought it to me and it was hooked up wrong.I hooked it up right and it started right up and run good and the amp light went out.Thanks Kyle R. for the help.

 

[kredlinger]

Good to hear Joey. Dang, seems like some of the simplist things that cause headaches or trouble seem to slip past us when trying to pinpoint problems.

 

[wwilkerson]

New to the Cub world. Bought a heavily used 2185, no idea of year. Has a Kohler 18 Command motor, 48" deck. Motor started every time at sellers house. Got it home and gave it a once over with the hose, bad idea. Now it won't start. I did disconnect the battery and removed it before the bath. I did splash more water then I wanted under the dash. Got the PTO, ignition switches wet. Did not get the carb wet. Has new air cleaner, and battery, 03/16, but I'm guessing that's all the seller did. I hooked the battery back up and it started, ran 30-40 seconds and died, now won't turn over. Noticed the amp light stays on too. I also had removed the seat and undid the seat switch but reconnected it before starting it. Has 12.65 volts on the battery and on the solenoid. It will turn over if I short the 2 points on the solenoid. I'm guessing I did something when it got wet, like ruin the solenoid? I'm at a loss. I don't know much more about electronics or motors. Thanks for any help.

 

[wwilkerson]

*UPDATE* Now it does not show a alt light, and no clicking on the motor. Still have power all the way to the solenoid. Guess I'll have to take it to someone. Thanks anyway.

 

[fcurrier]

William: Long distance electrical problems always suck. Right now I'm thinking ignition switch, but the electric PTO switches can be touchy, too.

Looky, looky:

LOOKY HERE

 

[wwilkerson]

*UPDATE* Mower is back to running! Found a fuse about 6-8 inches behind the starter that was not just blown, but melted into junk. Just cut the fuse plug off, wired it up. Runs again, went to put gas in, ran for a few laps, starting dying. Just unscrewed the gas cap a little, running decent, bogs down under load or up hill though, any ideas? Thanks.

 

[mgonitzke]

Before you go too much further, replace the fuse block and fuse. If it blew for some reason other than you got everything wet and something shorted, you don't want to wreck something more expensive in the electrical system, or start the tractor on fire.

Does the tractor have a mechanical fuel pump or vacuum operated? I would suspect the fuel pump given what you are describing.

 

[wwilkerson]

I'm going to replace that fuse, good call! I don't know what kind of fuel pump it is. How do I tell?

 

[digger]

William W.
You'll have to get the serial number off the machine, Then click the Parts lookup above and see which one of them to use.
I think there's 3 serial number breaks.

2185 Tractor S/N 1A031G & After, 13B-288-100

2185 Tractor S/N 239,001 - 326,005, 135-288-100, 134-288-100

2185 Tractor S/N 326,006 - 389,000 & 1I017G - 1I310G, 13A-288-100, 136-288-100

 

[mgonitzke]

If it has a mechanical fuel pump, it will be on the LH side rocker box cover on the head. If it is a vacuum pump it may be mounted on the firewall somewhere. You can get a kit to convert it to the mechanical pump, which I would recommend over the vacuum-operated one. Maybe I've just had several bad ones, but they don't seem to be able to pump enough gas to the engine under heavy load.