• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

2072 Oil leak

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ssheils

Active member
Joined
Aug 5, 2009
Messages
33
displayname
Steve Sheils
My 2072 has been dripping a little oil from under the motor since last fall. Well.... Now there is oil sprayed on the inside of the side panel tins. Looks like the oil is from the rear of the motor being pushed out from around the fly wheel. I never pulled a lawm mower motor. How long of a job is it on these old beasts? This is punishment for only thinking of selling it and not going though with the thought. "Always sell a horse when it's up!" The motor has 1160 hours on it. I bought it two years ago and have put only 100 of the hours on it.

Any how too's on how to pull these Mag 20's? Any ideas on what to look for? Say it is a rear seal on the motor. What kind of job would this turn into. I don't think I'm gifted enough mechanic and I know I don't have the time to do this myself. But... I'm fearful what a dealer would cost to do this. Suggestions? Advice? Anyone want to buy it?
 
Steve - The removal of the engine isn't really that bad but it's a pain because of the weight. I replaced the starter on my 2082 last year. See Pic
You can see how far you have to strip it down in the pic.

First unhook the battery cables.

I found it easiest to leave the plate/mount under the engine on the engine and just unbolt it from the frame. The whole front has to come off the frame to get to the front engine mount bolts and to be able to pull out the engine.
Remove the power steering hoses from inside the engine compartment , mark which one is on top of the other so you don't go "west" when you turn "east".
The drive shaft engine coupler is a little hard to get to but if my old crippled hands can do it then it's doable.

As for the seal replacement ... I leave you to someone that has been inside one ...

I'd love to buy it if it was close !
 
Oh yeah , remove and plug the fuel line from the engine side of the fuel pump and remove the choke and throttle cables and the starter cable and solenoid wires keeping in mind where they go.
 
It's getting serious. Loosing a 1/2 quart of oil every time I mow- mainly afterward- it leaks while still hot. No smoke. Any opinions on where to start? Are these Mag 20's known to leak out a rear seal? Is the seal easy to change. I invision having to pull the flywheel off. I just don't have the time or patience for this kind of work. Don't really want to spend alot either. Need all the reccomendations I can get. Thanks in advance.

Steve
 
Sorry to the mods!

There were two different posts. Originally thought oil was front of engine. Looks to be from the rear. I'm as bad with forum posts as I perceive my mechanical skill.
blush.gif


I enjoy the older cub cadets becuase I grew up mowing with the ones my day had. 127 and 129. My whole family has cubs. I'm horrified as my prospects at fixing this Mag 20 motor. My cries for advice are really looking for suggestions on which way to go with the tractor. It mows pretty good and the 450 blower is awesome in the winter. But.... she is bleeding dino blood. 1/2 a quart or more with each time I mow. My old man said oil is cheap. That is not the way when it comes to his own machinery, trust me. Like many other younger folks with families and a tight budget, I want to make the right move with this machine and not waste time or money. I can't afford a new mower and blower and don't want to finance anything. Could scrape together about $2,500..... once. Whether it's putting money into this motor, a repower project, or selling this and buying something else. I don't have the time or the facilities to try to repower this machine my self. I surely have no idea how to rebuild it if parts are available. I've heard these Mag 20- motors are 1000 hour motors and throw them away. It might just be for sale.

What would you folks do????
 
Steve - Everybody here dives in and fixes things. That's why we gather here , to find out "how to" and lend help to people like you that don't have grease under their finger nails when they wake up in the mornings.

There's software programmers and lawyers on here that probably had never held a srewdriver before. ... oh wait , I guess lawyers know how to use screwdrivers (sorry lawyers couldn't resist)
biggrin.gif


So Steve IF you have a place to do it and don't mind getting greasy we can walk you through it,
A link I posted earlier will take you to a time when a guy was in your shoes and he fixed his.

Or you could borrow that $2500 and send it to me and I'll fly up there and fix it for you ... Wouldn't that be something !
roflol.gif
 
Steve: Who told you to throw away a Kohler with 1,000 hours on it? The Mag 20 has an oil pump and an oil filter on it, I would think it would run forever if someone took care of it. I have heard that they are prone to blowing their seals, which seems to have happened in your case.

I was in a position similar to yours; I decided I wasn't going to let an old tractor beat me. It came pretty close, but I managed to sort out every system on the machine and I now know how to fix just about everything on it, and if I run into a problem, I post it on this site.

And after Charlie picks on me for posting incorrectly, I post again until someone responds. If you want to keep your hands clean, trade your tractor in on a new model, and plan to do it again every two years for the rest of your life.

If you want to be the "master of your fate," grab a wrench and fire up your modem/router/gateway. If you found this forum, I bet you can fix your tractor. But you have to make that judgement for your self.

My two cents.
 
Steve--
I agree with Ken and Jeremiah. These tractors are worth the time and and investment. They are build solidly throughout. That is not to say that they don't have a few weeks points here and there. However, if you learn what those are and get 'em fixed, you will have a tractor for a lifetime! When I sold my five year old Cub LT1050 (a cheaper box store model) and purchased a 21 year old 1772 (a cousin to your Super), my wife thought I was nuts. I knew that I would have some issues to deal with on this 1900 hour machine and some problems to overcome. But in the end, I would have a tractor that would do what I needed it to do and would last through the decades (if cared for). This site and the guys here have been a great help to me and they can to you too. Take a breath and take it one step at a time.
thumbsup.gif
 
Back
Top