• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

1882 has slow reverse

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cfrock

Active member
Joined
Mar 29, 2011
Messages
25
displayname
Charles Frock
I have a model 1882 tractor that goes forward fine but is very slow in backing up. When you press the brake pedal down it returns the hydro lever right back to dead center and there is no creeping. Is the reverse hydro valve going bad or is there an adjustment that I can make to fix this problem.
 
One way to know for sure would be to switch the valves and see if you go fast backing up and slow forward.
thumbsup_old.gif
 
Charlie is correct. Your reverse valve may be sticking and need a good cleaning. DO NOT use brake cleaner to clean. It causes the rubber o-rings to swell and shortens the life of the valves. Keep us posted.
happy.gif
 
OK Does anyone have an idea of which one is which??
If I can't use a solvent to clean them with what is safe to use?
Would it be better to just pull both of them and send them out to that guy in Ohio and have them rebuilt?
 
My answer to you was just that.
1. take them both out
2. put them in the opposite holes that they were removed from.
3. See if the speed changes with them reversed
4. Replace the bad one.

OR,
Take them both out, rebuild them both, and don't worry about finding out which valve had the issue.
 
You can use PB Blaster or WD40 to clean them. Brake cleaner is just too harsh on the o-rings.On the bottom is a tiny hole. Use a small wire to push the ball bearing up and down. Now I have to pretty much guess however I think sitting on the seat the valve on your right is for reverse and the left is forward. Clean the top area THOROUGHLY BEFORE removing the check valves. Use the wire carefully so as to not score (put a scracth ) on the inside ball bearing. Once removed it is a pretty straight forward cleaning.

It depends upon how long the tractor has been sitting. If for years then you may need to replace both valves. If say for just over winter.... I'd clean them. Even Hy Tran will help clean them. Have confidence in yourself, You can do it. It isn't that hard. Keep us posted.
happy.gif
 
OK Thank you for everyone's reply and suggestions. The tractor has been sitting a lot more than it was used by the previous owner. I bought it about a year ago and I only used it a couple of times. I have to many tractors and not enough grass to cut to use all of them. It kind of has become an obsession with me to buy Cub Cadet SGT tractors whenever I can find one in good condition. I now have 8 of them. I think that I will just pull them out and get them rebuilt. Again thanks for your input.
 
Charles F. Even if your Cub Cadet has been sitting for years, I would simply thoroughly clean the top are and remove both valves and use WD40 or PB blaster and the small wire. You'll be surprised at how easy the stuck valves will soon be working freely. Then give your tractor a fresh oil/filter change and away you'll go. Also use a small amount of lubricant on the linkage to help remove and loosen up any rust build up on that.
happy.gif


Also, Fancy says that if you decide that you have too many tractors he'll gladly give one a good kitty home.
297046.gif
 
I'm high jacking this thread! Edit: Oops! I thought I clicked the old 2072 problems thread! Now I really made this take a left turn. Sorry...

I'm finally experiencing the lose bolt syndrome on the Aluminum rear end in my 2072. I would like to swap in a cast iron rear end from a 1250 QL. Does anyone see any issues with me bolting the later model SGT hydro pump to the cast iron rear end assuming I find a 1250 that has disk brakes and not the internal brake?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top