John Halper
Active member
Have an 1811 looking to put a command 20 in it. What's needed to do? How many changes ?
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1811 magnum to command.
- Thread starter John Halper
- Start date
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mgonitzke
Well-known member
Here is how I did my 1872; aside from the driveshaft length, this is very similar to what would need to be done with an 1811. Some of the things I did, you won't need to do, i.e. completely rewire the tractor....mine was so far gone it was easier to start over than try to fix it.
1872 Command Swap
In short, you'll need a different driveshaft and muffler, a couple minor wiring changes, and some modifications to the firewall to make sure the engine is not recirculating hot air. If the Command you have does not have an oil cooler, I'd highly reccomend getting a used one to put on there. It helps a lot. You can use the stock air cleaner, but the cover will have to be cut to clear the firewall. Depending on what the Command came out of, the 1811's PTO clutch may or may not fit properly. I had to make a very precise length spacer to add to the end of the crankshaft to fully support the clutch bearing. I think the 23 hp versions out of 3000 series CC's have the same crank dimensions as an M18, so it'd just bolt right up to that. The 18 and 20 hp CC spec versions have a slightly shorter PTO end on the crankshaft.
I'd also consider moving the hourmeter under the hood somewhere like I did and installing an oil pressure gauge, as this will give you some idea as to whether or not it is overheating.
1872 Command Swap
In short, you'll need a different driveshaft and muffler, a couple minor wiring changes, and some modifications to the firewall to make sure the engine is not recirculating hot air. If the Command you have does not have an oil cooler, I'd highly reccomend getting a used one to put on there. It helps a lot. You can use the stock air cleaner, but the cover will have to be cut to clear the firewall. Depending on what the Command came out of, the 1811's PTO clutch may or may not fit properly. I had to make a very precise length spacer to add to the end of the crankshaft to fully support the clutch bearing. I think the 23 hp versions out of 3000 series CC's have the same crank dimensions as an M18, so it'd just bolt right up to that. The 18 and 20 hp CC spec versions have a slightly shorter PTO end on the crankshaft.
I'd also consider moving the hourmeter under the hood somewhere like I did and installing an oil pressure gauge, as this will give you some idea as to whether or not it is overheating.
