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1614

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john raasch

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2022
Messages
10
Location
St Ignace mi
so I have my grand father's 1641 it was running as should one time next time it ran rough do to wire between coils melted i replaced coils and wire now tractor will not start I fuel ,spark, and a 180lbs of compression puzzled i would really appreciate any help i can get
 
You can see the fuel going into the carb? Or you added fuel to the tank?
You verified the plugs actually sparked?
180 PSI of compression? THAT has me puzzled!! I think if that reading is accurate, then the cylinder is full of oil or gas.
If you indeed have gas going thru the carb, and you apply spark at the plug at the right time.. it'll run. Suck / Squish / Bang / Spit all at the right time is all it takes.
 
John, you replaced coils,the gap from flywheel should be about .010. If you cranked it with plugs out,is it spitting any liquid?? As others have said the comp. number seems high which suggests there is liquid in cyl.....the wire between coils is a ground to kill engine ..Did you find why it burned?If it shorted in the harness it might still be keeping it from sparking...Unplug kill wire and test for spark.If you do have spark you have the answer,finding the short might not be easy. If you do have spark,do not try to start that way..You will no longer have a way to shut off engine unless you pull plug wires or can choke it out...
 
I did check air gap according to the manual its 0.080 to 0.012 spark plug gap is .030 with brand new spark plugs cylinders not full of oil or gas but plugs do get wet and smell like gas it has me completely stumped it ran beautiful before wire melted between coils that ended up touching the head
 
John, you replaced coils, the gap from flywheel should be about .010. If you cranked it with plugs out, is it spitting any liquid?? As others have said the comp. number seems high which suggests there is liquid in cyl.....the wire between coils is a ground to kill engine ..Did you find why it burned? If it shorted in the harness it might still be keeping it from sparking...Unplug kill wire and test for spark.If you do have spark you have the answer, finding the short might not be easy. If you do have spark, do not try to start that way. You will no longer have a way to shut off engine unless you pull plug wires or can choke it out...
also shorted out wire was completely replaced with new wire and connectors
 
John, the only thing left I would do...unhook fuel and plug ,drain carb, plugs in and crank with a shot of carb.cleaner(not ether) with coil kills unhooked....it should fire...if it does track backwards to what was done and possible flooding of carb also be sure if it has a fuel sol. on carb. that it is working. If it does not fire you're losing spark somewhere...(Briggs almost always require choke on when cold) I use this method to test most engines for a few seconds of run time.....only takes 3 ,spark,fuel, and comp. to fire
 
does the upper port on back of the carb connect to anything
John, the only thing left I would do...unhook fuel and plug ,drain carb, plugs in and crank with a shot of carb.cleaner(not ether) with coil kills unhooked....it should fire...if it does track backwards to what was done and possible flooding of carb also be sure if it has a fuel sol. on carb. that it is working. If it does not fire you're losing spark somewhere...(Briggs almost always require choke on when cold) I use this method to test most engines for a few seconds of run time.....only takes 3 ,spark,fuel, and comp. to fire
does the port on the back upper side of the carb connect to anything
 
If it has spark, compression and is getting gas, it should start, unless the timing is off. Did the flywheel key shear?
 
Here is one off a 1641, pretty sue it is an overflow for the carb bowl. the hose exits out the bottom of the engine mounting plate by the firewall.
DSC02153.JPG
DSC02152.JPG
 

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