• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

1512 engine alignment

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bpientka

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2010
Messages
338
displayname
Bernie Pientka
Last week we received a few inches of snow (4-6inchs) so I got out the 1512 and plowed the driveway. After finishing I put is away in the garage and the next morning found a large puddle of transmission fluid. Examination of the leak turned out to be the cork gasket between pump and housing (typical leak point). A checked my maintenance log and found that the seal lasted for 7 years and almost 400 hrs. Not bad for a $7.00 gasket. When I took it out the gasket was in pretty bad shape (thin, cracked, etc), which were definite factors to it failing. I started to think about things (yes thinking is bad) and wondered if the failure was due to my main seal replacement this summer. When I replaced the main seal I had to remove the engine mounting bolts. While I think the engine is back where it was I never aligned anything.

Should I think about aligning the engine? If so, any suggestions on how?

Maybe I am just over thinking things??
 
Bernie Pientka
I don`t think there is any alignment . The engine sits on rubber mounts and does move around. I installed a neoprene gasket so I would never have to remove the hydro pump again . Those cork gaskets on the pump face are known to crack and leak.
 
Thanks Don,

I already have a cork gasket (purchased a while ago) so I think I am going to stick with that. Figure that 7 years and 400hr is pretty good on a gasket. Also this leak gave me an excuse to do a complete rear end check (diff cover, clean out, etc). Everything looked great in the diff.
 
The engines are not aligned in the diesels and the front coupler is another problem with the bolt heads hitting. It looked like the engine output and the input on the hydro are on different angles on my 882.
 
A few years ago I notice the bolt heads hitting on the coupler. Did some parts lookup and found that one set of bolts should use carriage bolts. Switched mine out and they never hit again.
 
You can see where the front coupler will hit one of the bolts on the engine coupler. I used cap screws and still had to grind down the one on the blue line. If the engine and rear were in line it wouldn't matter. It would be nice if someone could make a different engine coupler so that the bolts would not hit.




249960.jpg
 
Yes that was my exact problem a few years ago. PO must have swapped out bolts.

According to the parts lookup they list:
710-3034 Bolt, 3/8 X 1-1/4 Crg Type 5

You can see by the attached image the carrage bolt clears the head of the other bolt without any grinding.


249972.jpg
 
Wish I woulda thought of that a month ago! I just replaced the front coupler due to a wear problem that happened over time. One side of the coupler was worn where the bushing rides. Wore the driveshaft tip as well. Replaced everything except the overunning clutch(which still works).The vibration is much better! Im still not sure why the coupler was wearing. The alignment seemed fine and all the engine mounting isolators were good. Any ideas?
 
I would not use carriage bolts there...the square part will tear the rag joint. I'd either use a button-head bolt or simply grind down the head of an ordinary hex bolt until it clears. I did the latter on mine and that worked just fine.
 
Thanks Matt,

I have to say after 6 years and 380hrs of running the flex rags with carrage bolt there were no signs of cracking where the square part hits the holes. The square part is not that large and fits right into the holes on the flex rag.
 
could the bolts be hitting because the front motor mounts are bad? i am thinking of putting new ones in the front mine, they look thinner in the front and that will make the alinement be bad.
 
Here's a first. LOL
Can't say as I ever seen anyone reply to a thread/post that's 8 years old. :cubwinker:


I gotta say, though, it's easy to do; I've done the same thing - not 8 years old, but 2 or 3. By the time I realized it, it was too late. Neither the first nor last time I've felt pretty silly!
 
That happens frequently over on Roland's forum...

As a matter of fact there's even been a couple threads accidentally started in the "forum rules" topic!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top