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1211

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jmaas

Member
Joined
May 2, 2008
Messages
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john maas
I am off soon to check out a 1211. Owner says that it is a 1997. It must have sat on the dealers floor for a very long time. I hope that it turns out to be worthwhile. It is supposed to need a ignition switch and PTO clutch sounds bad. This would be my first QL and I am looking forward to it. John
 
I bought the 1211. It seems to be sort of an oddball model. I found that some of the electrical trouble is a bad ignition switch. The 12v hot blade terminal had burned itself through. I soldered a wire to replace it and that helped. next I put a jumper across a two wire terminal by the PTO switch. The PTO switch is missing. I am looking for a replacement. I have a question what is the purpose of the two postion start and engage settings of the PTO switch?
It is charging good and the PTO clutch clicks when I jump it from the battery. It looks like it will make a good tractor. John
 
John M: The Model 1211 was made in 1987, 1988 & 1989. It is basically the same as the older IH 1250, later IH 1282 and/or CCC 680. It's a darned good model.....

The PTO switch has a safety design in it to keep half-wits from starting the engine with the PTO engaged and mowing off toenails, childrens feet, arms & legs, and/or pet tail-bob's 'n haircuts.....!!!

I recommend that you don't play "cheep-out". Get and replace that ignition switch as well as the PTO switch for lots of happy mowing seat time with your 1211....

If you check the FAQ's you may be able to find the wiring diagram.

An Operator's Manual, Service Manual and Parts manual are also gonna be necessary if you ask me....current Cub Cadet dealers have little or no information on the 1211 and, importantly, certainly no mechanics with experience with them. You have to be your own expert....Go to the pretty colored boxes at the top of the page and begin ordering what you need from the sponsors...

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
I have the tractor running and I am cleaning up the deck. The idler arm is rusted to the sholder bolt. I searched the archives but did not see anything about repair. I have soaked heated pressed and pounded. Is repair worth the time? Is it a badge of honor to say that you have repaired one or should I just look for a replacement? My local dealer can't get the idler arm. So I am soaking some more and going out to work on more storage space so that I can look for more equipment. John
 
John M:

90111.jpg


Click on one of the links to the sponsors above for the parts you need.
 
So now I have the deck cleaned up and installed it runs great very quiet. I want to pull the blades for sharpening. My 3/4 breaker bar does not want to loosen them it only slips the blade on the shaft. Any acvice? I don't want to pull to hard if I am doing something wrong. Thanks John
 
John; You may have to loosen the nuts with A air wrench. It will get them loose without having to pry on anything. Put Anti sieze on the threads when you put them back on.
Luther
 
John M: I just lift the front end of the tractor, and <u>with</u> safety jack-stands in place, roll under the deck and use a Harbor Freight (ie: inexpensive) electric impact wrench to change the blades on my "fleet" of 20 or so Cub Cadets....On the pricier side, if you have a shop with an air system that will handle it, the air gun works just as well, as Luther H said. Also like he said, I recommend any nut/bolt exposed to the elements have anti-sieze on them when you put them back on...sure makes the next time easier

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Here is a picture of the 1211 and my original. I set all of the tractors out one day when I wasn't able to go to plow day so I had my own show. John in KC
96244.jpg
 
Dan,
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Yes, this would be a good area to ask questions regarding it or to post info about it. Alternately you could start a new thread in the "CCC and MTD Machines & Equipment" forum.
 

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