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  1. P

    Archive through May 26, 2010

    Lucas, look here for checking your regulator. To check for leakage with the key off, disconnect the lead to the positive terminal of the battery and put voltmeter leads from the disconnected lead to the battery post. If you get a voltage reading, you have a leak. Hope this helps.
  2. P

    Archive through May 25, 2010

    Lloyd W. I start by checking the trunion springs. I got a 127 one time that someone had taken the springs out of the trunion and bolted the control in place. It bucked in both forward and reverse so you may also have a stuck valve. But I'd check the trunion springs first.
  3. P

    Archive through May 21, 2010

    Frank, I agree 100 per cent. With a volt/ohmmeter and an understanding of what's going on, you can usually find an electrical problem. There's no such systematic way to diagnose a fuel problem!!!
  4. P

    Archive through May 21, 2010

    Jared, sounds to me like you don't have continuity through the points. Put a voltmeter on the negative side of the coil and see if the voltage goes to zero when the points close. If it doesn't, drag a piece of paper through the points to clean them. Even new points often need cleaning. Good...
  5. P

    Archive through May 11, 2010

    Josh, it's probably a little too late to help you, but here's what I use to compress that clutch spring. And, if you use a roll pin punch you'll have a lot better luck getting those roll pins out.
  6. P

    Archive through May 02, 2010

    I’ve made more progress on the Mini-Cub. I finally got the sheet metal and fiberglass work about finished. I need to find a screen mesh suitable for the front grill screen. I think the grill is going to look thinner and taller then I wanted, but I’ll have to live with it. I have to wait for...
  7. P

    Archive through April 26, 2010

    A year ago I came up with a way to replace that long belt on the tiller I use on my 123. I’d seen where someone else had done a similar thing several years ago. I bought this pulley system several years ago at a flea market for $10. It had a really nice PTO system on it that I...
  8. P

    Archive through April 08, 2010

    Tim D. If you don't mind spending a little time reading, this might help. Hope it does.
  9. P

    Archive through March 09, 2010

    A friend of mine took a 682 on trade in and is looking to sell it. He hasn't had it running, but the previous owner said it was a real smoker. The sheet metal and deck look to be in really good shape. He's asking $400 for it. Email me if interested and I'll send you his number. My email is...
  10. P

    Archive through March 15, 2010

    On a different topic, there’s discussion on here from time to time about o-rings to fit the add on hydraulic pump. I found one from McMasterCarr that works well for me. It’s a thicker gasket then stock, but since stock is NLA, I’m using this as a replacement. It is The part number from...
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    Archive through March 11, 2010

    Terry R., Maple Grove is a great company to deal with. And you do have to spend a certain amount each year to order from them. And, as far as I know, they don't have a web site. And, to keep it on topic, that's where I order all my Cub Cadet engine parts. They do have Cub Cadet mower blades...
  12. P

    Archive through February 26, 2010

    Lucas, I've used a gas tank sealer before on tanks that seemed to rusty to clean and had good luck. I think what I used was called "Redi-coat" or something to that effect.
  13. P

    Archive through February 18, 2010

    Lucas, I'm guessing you have two problems with your clutch. The jerking when you let out on the clutch is a broken teaser spring. The other problem sounds like a worn shaft. If the throwout bearing hangs on a rough shaft, it won't let the clutch release properly when you depress the clutch...
  14. P

    Archive through February 04, 2010

    Wayne C. To add to what Charlie told you, here's the dimensions I used for milling -- before I made the bends. Sorry for the dimensions being a little confusing, but that's the program I use. If you need more, let me know and I'll try to get them. It's been a while, but as I recall, I had to...
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    Archive through January 10, 2010

    Robert P. If someone answered your question, I missed it. It sounds to me like you have a worn drive shaft and the throw out bearing is "hanging" on it. Look in the Cub Cadet Parts box at the top of this page and you should be able to find a parts breakdown for your model.
  16. P

    Archive through January 05, 2010

    Jeff, you still would use the starter button to turn over the engine. Since you said it would turn over but not start, using the jumper will make sure you're getting power to the coil. It would still require you to use the starter button to turn it over.
  17. P

    Archive through January 05, 2010

    Jeff B. You can bypass a lot of stuff by just jumping a wire from the + side of the battery to the + side of the coil. That eliminates all the safety switches and ignition switch. But, be careful because if the engine starts you can't kill it without removing the jumper.
  18. P

    CNC conversion

    Guys, thanks for all the nice comments. Kendell, I don't belong to any of the Yahoo groups. This was a one shot deal. It was something I wanted to do so I'd have CNC capabilities. Now that I've done it, I'm really only interested in using it. The writeup was a way of remembering what I did...
  19. P

    CNC conversion

    This is probably something most of you wouldn't be interested in, but I converted a table top mill to CNC to do a lot of my custom work on Cub Cadets. It's too long to put here, but if you're interested I have it under the Special Projects section of cubcadetman.com. It has to be one of the...
  20. P

    Archive through November 16, 2009

    Earl L. I have a writeup on how to remove the pto clutch and basket pulley on my webpage. Check out cubcadetman.com. Hope it helps.
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