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  1. 1811Cub

    Deck adjustments

    On one of my tractors, the edge of the latch on the engaging lever was worn enough that it would not stay connected. Fortunately, they are easy to replace. Also, the pins on the mule drive bracket wear out. To repair them, they must be welded, then filed/ground back to correct shape.
  2. 1811Cub

    Tractor #6 is a 1811

    The 1811 was produced from 1986-1989. There might be a date code on the engine to narrow it down if the engine is original to the machine. Also, there was a separate date code decal on the frame just below the riveted on serial number tag. If yours has the "CCC" emblem in the upper grille, then...
  3. 1811Cub

    Battery cut-off swt

    Put them on the negative terminal.
  4. 1811Cub

    Engine oil

    The zinc debate has been front and center mostly due to soft aftermarket flat tappet camshafts failing in older auto engines, especially with performance valve springs. The metal is not being treated as well as it should and poor metallurgy for both the lifter and cam lobe surfaces, so they fail...
  5. 1811Cub

    Engine oil

    ND oil is a very small market, so no surprise it is fading away. The reg SAE30 is still easy to find around here.
  6. 1811Cub

    Battery cut-off swt

    I use them on every Cub I own. Cheap insurance and peace of mind.
  7. 1811Cub

    My cheap Cub Cadet 1330

    Liam- if you decide to part it out or scrap it, save the seat if it is good. They were also used on Cub Garden Tractors. Also, some knobs, hood ornament, and switches interchange.
  8. 1811Cub

    My cheap Cub Cadet 1330

    They are rare now because many have been parted/scrapped. The biggest issue with them is the transaxle. Not serviceable and no parts exist for them when they fail. I would rather invest my dollars in a much much better Cub Garden Tractor from the same era.
  9. 1811Cub

    Why are there so many Models?

    I have a wide array of 82 series units, from a 1050, to a 782 Diesel. ALL do basic yard duties well, even the 1050, which has comparable power to my 1210's. They are equal since the 1210's hydros use more engine power output to turn the pump. The 1811 never breaks sweat, nor does the diesel...
  10. 1811Cub

    18 Magnum to 20 Command in a 1862.

    Command will need switched 12V to the carb solenoid unless you purchase a carb that is devoid of that feature. You can retain the engine magneto kill wire and oil pressure wire from the Magnum. The starter wiring is different, since the Command uses a GM style starter. The existing starter...
  11. 1811Cub

    Is there a better one of the IH Cadets?

    Tractor pulling and other ground engaging implement will find driveline shortcomings really fast. Unless there was a stress riser in your axle, you will most likely never break ANY IH or CCC GT axle during most common usage such as mowing or moving snow with a blade.
  12. 1811Cub

    rusty primer

    That's too nice to use!
  13. 1811Cub

    Is there a better one of the IH Cadets?

    The aluminum case rears have the fine spline axles which are superior to the coarse spline axles found in the iron cased rears.
  14. 1811Cub

    Is there a better one of the IH Cadets?

    My 1982 1282 has a iron rear, painted red. All of the CCC units under serial number 719999 had a iron rear.
  15. 1811Cub

    My collection is complete!

    Those were the end of an era. They were beasts for sure. Nice find!
  16. 1811Cub

    Is there a better one of the IH Cadets?

    Sorry, but a 1811/1812 blows the doors off any of the earlier units. By that time, MTD had worked the kinks out and arguably made one of the best GT's made. This is before MTD screwed the pooch and de-contented their lineup to lower their price point. The best IH produced model would be a...
  17. 1811Cub

    Dragged nother 1 in.

    Craftsman hand tools up to about 2000 were good forged in the USA steel. After that, quality was crap. I have a mix of old Craftsman and Snap On. The Snap On tools rarely ever disappoint. other than initial buy in price and finding the Snap On truck if you have a broken tool.
  18. 1811Cub

    Coil and ignition points

    Any of those numbers are correct for a single cylinder K series Kohler. Those are all of the part numbers over the course of several years.
  19. 1811Cub

    Coil and ignition points

    The part numbers are/were KH-41-519-21-S, KH-231281, KH-231281-S I found several of these NOS OEM Kohler coils on various sites.
  20. 1811Cub

    Coil and ignition points

    The points/condenser is easy-just stick with the stuff it was born with. The Kohler parts work well, and if you set the point gap to spec, there is a good probability that the ignition timing will be spot on. Kohler coils are very expensive, but like most of their parts they are the best available.
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