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Found an original

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Needle gets stuck in the upward position in the carb. Removed it and cleaned the needle seat. Reassembled to the same problem took it back apart and the needle is stuck up again. Seems there is a small worn in edge on the needle which maybe be catching the needle seat. Both of these can be replaced with a rebuild kit. Seals for the rear end come Wednesday.
They can stick in the down position as well. If the carb was stored without gas, my preferred way, a film could still cause it to stick. It sounds like you are addressing this. Not sure how it can flood so badly if needle is holding closed at the Seat.
On your Carb, is the seat rubber or is the tip on the Needle rubber?
 
I’m wondering now if the float is not floating. I can’t explain the needle being up and the flooding. It was flooding first, pulled it apart to find the needle sticking up, cleaned the seat and the needle got it going up and down reinstalled flooded took the carb back off needle is stuck up again.

I believe the tip of the needle has a black coating on it, I don’t think right now it’s rubber. The seat doesn’t seem to have anything in it.


Carb kit comes today with a new seat and needle. I’ll try to float the float in some gas.
 
I’m wondering now if the float is not floating. I can’t explain the needle being up and the flooding. It was flooding first, pulled it apart to find the needle sticking up, cleaned the seat and the needle got it going up and down reinstalled flooded took the carb back off needle is stuck up again.

I believe the tip of the needle has a black coating on it, I don’t think right now it’s rubber. The seat doesn’t seem to have anything in it.


Carb kit comes today with a new seat and needle. I’ll try to float the float in some gas.
Keep us informed. Im curious.
Float, not float WOULD cause flooding. Usually you can shake the float and hear gas sloshing around in it, if it failed. The black end on the needle valve is usually rubber. If there was gas in the system for many years without use, that rubber tip might have gotten soft and sticky. It could hang up on the Seat. Still does explain flooding. Engine would be starving. Let us know how the carb rebuild goes.
 
I’m wondering now if the float is not floating. I can’t explain the needle being up and the flooding. It was flooding first, pulled it apart to find the needle sticking up, cleaned the seat and the needle got it going up and down reinstalled flooded took the carb back off needle is stuck up again.

I believe the tip of the needle has a black coating on it, I don’t think right now it’s rubber. The seat doesn’t seem to have anything in it.


Carb kit comes today with a new seat and needle. I’ll try to float the float in some gas.
OEM carb kit or aftermarket/China knockoff? There. Is. A. Difference.
 
It’s a $8 Chinese kit off Amazon. New problem is how to get the old seat out. I need a ultra thin wall socket or a special 3/8 wrench
image.jpg


Of course the new seat is a 10mm which is gonna fit even worse. And the new needle is the wrong diameter for the original seat. So I can’t just try the new needle.

I can see the wear now on the original needle. There’s a little ring in the rubber. The float has been floating in gas for an hour and half now with no signs of sinking or collecting gas.

I don’t like how the china needle/seat are a different inner diameter than the OEM needle and seat. Didn’t figure on that. I guess it could be argued that shouldn’t matter but I still don’t really like it. I guess it wouldn’t be outrageous to find an OEM kit and use the new needle in my old seat but I’d like to remove the seat I have now to clean behind it replace the washer and use the new seat/needle as a pair.

What am I missing with removing the old seat? I don’t have a socket or wrench that’s near fitting and I don’t see how to modify one. Where’s the best to place to go for an original OEM correct size needle/seat rebuild kit?
 
It’s a $8 Chinese kit off Amazon. New problem is how to get the old seat out. I need a ultra thin wall socket or a special 3/8 wrenchView attachment 158388

Of course the new seat is a 10mm which is gonna fit even worse. And the new needle is the wrong diameter for the original seat. So I can’t just try the new needle.

I can see the wear now on the original needle. There’s a little ring in the rubber. The float has been floating in gas for an hour and half now with no signs of sinking or collecting gas.

I don’t like how the china needle/seat are a different inner diameter than the OEM needle and seat. Didn’t figure on that. I guess it could be argued that shouldn’t matter but I still don’t really like it. I guess it wouldn’t be outrageous to find an OEM kit and use the new needle in my old seat but I’d like to remove the seat I have now to clean behind it replace the washer and use the new seat/needle as a pair.

What am I missing with removing the old seat? I don’t have a socket or wrench that’s near fitting and I don’t see how to modify one. Where’s the best to place to go for an original OEM correct size needle/seat rebuild kit?
Nothing wrong with your thought of Just Needle replacement.
There's a whole lot of nothing behind the seat, just use Carb cleaner on the Bowl side of the the seat to back-blow any crap toward the fuel line nipple.
Any chance you can bring the Needle to a real Auto parts store? Maybe they can size it up with one they have. In the old dsys, auto stores carried individual stuff like this.............NAPA does have many stand alone Seats and Needles. MAYBE their part number 23623
 
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Needle gets stuck in the upward position in the carb. Removed it and cleaned the needle seat. Reassembled to the same problem took it back apart and the needle is stuck up again. Seems there is a small worn in edge on the needle which maybe be catching the needle seat. Both of these can be replaced with a rebuild kit. Seals for the rear end come Wednesday.
In the old days the "needles" were made of solid brass, and did not have the rubber tips, like todays. I still look for old carburetors to cannibalize parts. Also today's gasoline is also "sticky" after a month or so, because of the corn they mix into it.
 
KH-25-757-01 is the OEM carb kit. You need a nut driver or thin wall cheap socket to remove the original seat.
Reading this thread on the original I have a question the group may have an answer to ? I am currently working on my 1st original for a friend serial # 15287 and today I rebuilt the carb with the above kit however this carb which I assume to be original to this tractor has a push button in the bottom to drain the bowl. The kit does not come with this little rubber seated push button and after 60 years it leaks.My temporary solution was to put a later bowl on it. Is this little push button rubber seat available anywhere or would I have a better chance of seeing Jesus ?
 
Tecumseh carbs use the same,so does Lawn Boy.
doesn't look like a Tecumseh with the external spring this one is not part of the bowl nut but off to the side with a spring clip in the bowl that holds tension on it ? I'll post a pic tomorrow, just trying to determine if this was original on the originals ?
 
Reading this thread on the original I have a question the group may have an answer to ? I am currently working on my 1st original for a friend serial # 15287 and today I rebuilt the carb with the above kit however this carb which I assume to be original to this tractor has a push button in the bottom to drain the bowl. The kit does not come with this little rubber seated push button and after 60 years it leaks.My temporary solution was to put a later bowl on it. Is this little push button rubber seat available anywhere or would I have a better chance of seeing Jesus ?
i think the only original OEM/stock rubber parts came wrapped around the wheels 🛞 😉
🚜💨
 
already have ! not being familiar with the originals figured I'd ask the group !
I have had 3 or 4 originals with that setup, mostly on the early ones. this part number is in the ealy parts manual also.
s-l1600.jpg
 
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