HYTRAN fluid

Do I really have to use IH hytran tranny fluid ? they say the new fluids now are just as good as IH hytran and is a lot cheaper.

Cheaper is cheaper for a reason

You can use anything that meets the original Hytran specifications, but in my experience, the other generic/"equivalent" fluids lack the moisture retention properties of Hytran that encapsulate water into goo that sticks harmlessly to the inside of the transaxle instead of continually getting cycled through the hydro unit. There is a great deal of anecdotal evidence that Hytran is a superior fluid for this application, and as long as it stays clean, these units will last thousands of hours.

Unless you are using it hundreds of hours a year, you don't need to change it particularly often. Filter should be changed every 200 hours IIRC.

mjwhalen said:

Do I really have to use IH hytran tranny fluid ? they say the new fluids now are just as good as IH hytran and is a lot cheaper.

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Reference page 6 in the BDU-10/21Hydrostatic Transmissions Service and Repair Manual link below for the correct fluids to use in Hydro-Gear hydrostatic transmissions.

https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Hy...0327 Hydro Gear Service and Repair Manual.pdf

fhiggenbottom said:

Reference page 6 in the BDU-10/21Hydrostatic Transmissions Service and Repair Manual link below for the correct fluids to use in Hydro-Gear hydrostatic transmissions.

https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Hydro-Gear-Transmission-Transaxle-Service-Repair-Manuals/BDU-10 THRU BDU-21 BLN-50327 Hydro Gear Service and Repair Manual.pdf

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OP appears to have a 129, which has a Sundstrand hydro unit, not Hydro-Gear.

I was wondering the same thing myself, but after reading the vast number of threads on the subject I decided I probably shouldn't cheap out on fluid that doesn't get changed that often. I bought my 1450 because I wanted something that wasn't designed to be thrown away like the junk being built today. It would be kind of silly to then put fluid in that will potentially wear out my machine faster. Some things are definitely over-priced where you're just paying for the brand name. But after doing a bunch of research on the HyTrans fluid it seems this is in fact a case where the cheaper stuff is inferior. Just my two cents.

lower price doesn’t necessarily translate to better value.
some things are worth exactly what they cost, high or low.
OEM carb vs. chinese knockoff, Hy-Tran vs. fluids of similar spec/use but inherently different chemistry.

who ever regretted rebuilding their OEM carb or using Hy-Tran? no one.
the alternatives *sometimes* come with tales of woe.

I understand quality….
More expensive does not mean higher quality
The IH logo definitely adds to the cost
My tractors are kept in a heated barn and are my toys, do not use them weekly or work them hard
If you think the Hytran is the only one that meets spec I believe you are incorrect

Everettlee said:

I understand quality….
More expensive does not mean higher quality
The IH logo definitely adds to the cost
My tractors are kept in a heated barn and are my toys, do not use them weekly or work them hard
If you think the Hytran is the only one that meets spec I believe you are incorrect

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It is the only one that has water encapsulating capabilities.

Everettlee said:

If you think the Hytran is the only one that meets spec I believe you are incorrect

Click to expand...

There is a difference between "meets the minimum requirements for performance" and "best for longevity". The hydro unit manufacturer has a long list of fluids that are approved for use and for which it will perform satisfactorily and reach its design lifespan of 1000 hours.

There is a great deal of anecdotal evidence that Hytran is a superior fluid for these machines. 20 years ago when I'd regularly buy these to fix and resell, most of the hydro tractors still had their original fluid and filter, yet still looked brand new inside once everything was cleaned up before adding new fluid.

The moisture encapsulation in particular is one thing the generic fluids do not do, and IMO this really contributes the the longevity of the transmission.

in a heated barn condensation is not an issue
Fluid gets changed after several years which in reality is easily less than 50 hours
This is a hobby for me, not a place I try to save money but in reality hytran is wasting money

Is it possible these fluids are beyond hygroscopic and pulling moisture from the air, thus contaminating themselves? Brake fluid is a prime example of this problem. DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1, are glycol-based and hygroscopic. However, DOT 5 brake fluid is silicone-based and non-hygroscopic.
Maybe the problem is that "modern" chemistry hasn't developed an adequate replacement/upgrade for hydrostatic transmission fluids yet, possibly due to a lack of demand.
The claim of condensation forming on the inside of the hydrostatic transmission leads me to wonder, if that is true, then why isn't this a problem with engines, automatic transmissions, rear-end differentials, etc.
There is definitely enough heat being generated in a hydostatic transmission to drive-off any moisture that might form inside the unit. So many questions! ( Petro-chemistry is above my "pay-grade", that's why I ask )

The hydro units contain very precisely machined parts, and as such, are very sensitive to contamination. The point of the moisture encapsulation is to keep the water from ever getting into the hydro unit. It turns to goo, which either clings to the inside of the transaxle, or gets caught by the filter. This is why the first thing to try on a machine that won't move is a fluid and filter change- the filter is probably plugged from this process occurring and not being changed. This is also why a hydraulic filter is a must, and an engine oil filter with a bypass valve should not be used as a substitute- if it plugs, the bypass opens, and all that crap goes through the hydro unit. Yes, there is enough heat generated during longer periods of usage to drive the moisture out, but the problem is, without it being encapsulated, that moisture would be getting cycled through the hydro unit for a long time until it all evaporated.

At least on the earlier machines, there was no fluid change interval specified, and a 200-hour interval for the filter. This is much, much, much longer than you'd go between engine oil changes, for example. A much longer time for contaminates to build up. Condensation is absolutely an issue in engines...cars that don't get driven long enough to keep the engine at operating temp for a long period of time will cause some moisture to get mixed in with the oil. I've seen this happen on my own car a few times, where oil gets trapped near the top of the dipstick and looks milky.

Thanks Matt,Nice explanation

And $6+ a quart for regular motor oil is not too much!!! But about the same price for hy-tran is???!!!

Here's my $.02.
When i got my cub, some 10 years ago, i was just trying to get it to operate reliably. After i finally figured out the intermittent engine problem that got me this free machine I had other issues when temperatures got below zero.
I guessed that the fluid may be freezing up as it had no forward or reverse until things warmed up. Took rear cover off the Diff. To find water droplets all on gears and housing. Wiped it down, cleaned out whatever goo was in the housing. Bought a NAPA 1410 filter and Traveller Premium trans and hydro fluid. The rear label says its compatable. Its been 10 years and the last 7 years it has been functioning happily in temperatures as low as -15F.
For me, i use this tractor to plow snow when the snow isn't too high, i use it to tow around small trailers during warmer weather. I'm not sure what the pricd difference between the fluid snd filter I used snd the IH brand but the aftermarket parts havd been 100% OK for my use. You are using this casually, a fun little toy. If aftermarket materials are a lot cheaper then it may be fine for you, as it is for me.
So, your call.

Christmas came early for me this year!!! I love a good hytran or alternate fluid discussion chain!